{"id":36993,"date":"2025-07-23T08:46:04","date_gmt":"2025-07-23T06:46:04","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/naturetravellab.com\/niet-gecategoriseerd\/the-night-train-to-decin-nature-and-adventure\/"},"modified":"2026-06-25T16:24:24","modified_gmt":"2026-06-25T14:24:24","slug":"the-night-train-to-decin-nature-and-adventure","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/naturetravellab.com\/en\/czech-republic\/the-night-train-to-decin-nature-and-adventure\/","title":{"rendered":"The Night Train to D\u011b\u010d\u00edn: Nature and Adventure"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Taking the Night Train to D\u011b\u010d\u00edn: A Nature Reserve in the Czech Border Region<\/h1>\n\n

There are few ways to travel that feel both as nostalgic and as sustainable as the night train. When I boarded the European Sleeper in Amsterdam on a Monday evening, it felt as if I were slipping into a time capsule. No digital frills, no sleek designer seats\u2014this is travel with nuts and bolts, set to the rhythm of clacking rails and squeaking bogies. The sleeper compartment was simple: five bunk beds, a shared sink, and a toilet in the hallway. Little curtains behind which the world slowly glides by. The two of us shared the compartment\u2014more than enough space for ourselves and our backpacks. <\/p>\n\n

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Later that night, still half-asleep, I peeked through the curtain for a moment and saw the name \u201cHauptbahnhof Berlin\u201d light up on a platform. It was a surreal moment\u2014so close to a metropolis, and yet so far from my own sense of time. I quickly turned back over, listened to the soft groaning of the tracks, and fell back asleep. <\/p>\n\n

D\u011b\u010d\u00edn, a border town on the edge of a national park in the Czech Republic<\/h2>\n\n

In the morning, the train rolls into D\u011b\u010d\u00edn, a small Czech border town on the Elbe, about 90 minutes from Prague, but it feels like a different world. Here, there are no busy boulevards or crowds of tourists, just mountains, rock formations, and a slow-moving river. A town on the edge of the national park, with a historic center that hasn\u2019t quite been restored to Instagram-perfect condition. And thank goodness for that. <\/p>\n\n

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After arriving, I walked with my backpack for 20 minutes to Hotel \u010cesk\u00e1 Koruna, located on D\u011b\u010d\u00edn\u2019s main square. A classic three-star hotel\u2014no frills, but everything you need. A spacious room with a private bathroom, a comfortable bed, and a view of the city. Breakfast is a buffet, featuring fresh bread, eggs, yogurt, and\u2014for those who dare\u2014a Czech sausage. <\/p>\n\n

From the hotel, you can walk right to the river or toward D\u011b\u010d\u00edn Castle, which towers high above the city. It\u2019s a stately Baroque colossus, with a rooftop garden and views of the Elbe and the hills beyond. The path leading there\u2014a sloping cobblestone street that goes straight to the castle\u2014turns out to be under restoration. <\/p>\n\n

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Jet\u0159ichovice, observation towers, and sweeping views<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n

My first active tour began in Jet\u0159ichovice, which you can reach by local bus that takes you right through the countryside to the starting point of the Look Outs hike. The bus departs right around the corner from the hotel. The beautiful 7-kilometer hiking trail winds past wooden staircases, rocky paths, and iconic lookout towers\u2014such as Mariina sk\u00e1la, Vilem\u00ednina st\u011bna, and Rudolf\u016fv k\u00e1men. Each offers a view that will naturally make you stop in your tracks. <\/p>\n\n

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The route winds through the protected landscape of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park, known for its imposing sandstone rock formations, pine forests, and unique biodiversity. Along the way, dry, rocky plateaus alternate with shady forests dominated by Scots pine and beech, among other species. In the open areas, mosses, lichens, and rare ferns thrive, characteristic of this varied microclimate. Birds of prey such as buzzards and sometimes even peregrine falcons are not uncommon here, and with a bit of luck, you might see them soaring above the valleys. <\/p>\n\n

The trails are well-marked, but can be quite steep at times. Here and there are hand-painted signs that wouldn\u2019t look out of place in a fairy tale book. Here, you\u2019re literally walking through millions of years of geological history. And best of all: even in June, the trails are relatively quiet. No crowds, just hikers who greet each other warmly. You can also opt for longer hikes here, such as a 15-kilometer route. There\u2019s even a long-distance trail that runs through the area, called H\u0159ebenovka \u010cesk\u00fdm \u0160v\u00fdcarskem. It\u2019s a 100-kilometer route right through the national park. There are several small bars near the bus stop and the start of the loop trail where you can grab a bite to eat and a drink. <\/p>\n\n

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Canoeing down the Elbe to Germany and cycling back<\/h2>\n\n

The next morning, I set out from Camping Kemp D\u011b\u010d\u00edn, where the canoes are waiting for me on the banks of the Elbe. The wide river flows calmly here, perfect for exploring the area by canoe. Rock faces and forests pass by on both sides, and herons, cormorants, and sometimes even a kingfisher hover above the water. On the banks, you can see wild ducks and other waterfowl peacefully wading about\u2014as long as you stay quiet too. <\/p>\n\n

Halfway through, I decided to have an apple while out on the water. As we were bobbing along, not paying attention and with my dry bag open (mistake number one), we hit a buoy sideways\u2014unexpectedly and treacherously. The canoe capsized, everything got wet, and we ended up in the water\u2014that was quite a scare. We righted the canoe, which was now full of water, and swam with it to shore. After assessing the damage (everything was wet, but otherwise okay), we decided to just keep paddling. A little wet, but still enjoying the view. <\/p>\n\n

Tip: Be sure to stay well away from the buoys\u2014at least five meters. They may look harmless, but you\u2019ll run into them faster than you think. And keep your dry bags closed, even when you\u2019re eating a snack \ud83d\ude09 <\/p>\n\n

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In Schmilka, just across the German border, I begin my return journey to D\u011b\u010d\u00edn on the bike that Active Point has provided for me. I follow the famous Elberadweg bike path, which runs right through a green gorge. The path winds closely along the river, hugging the rock faces, with occasional views that make you want to get off your bike for a moment. <\/p>\n\n

The slopes of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains rise up on the opposite bank like silent sentinels, while the river\u2014which I had crossed by canoe that very morning\u2014meanders lazily between the banks. Along the way, you pass half-timbered villages, small gardens, and occasionally a bridge or a ferry. The asphalt is smooth, well-maintained, and almost flat\u2014ideal for a leisurely ride where you\u2019ll spend most of your time gazing around in awe. A route that lets you experience the landscape in a whole new way: varied, open, and always with the river as your faithful companion. <\/p>\n\n

And then: ARRIG\u014c restaurant. Truly one of the highlights of the trip. This modern restaurant has it all. A modern, cosmopolitan atmosphere with a menu that\u2019s refined and culinary: local ingredients, original combinations, and prices that\u2019ll make you smile. Everything is just right\u2014the dishes, the atmosphere, the attentive staff\u2014and all for the price of a lunch in Amsterdam. <\/p>\n\n

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The Elbe Sandstone Mountains and the famous Tis\u00e1 cliffs<\/h2>\n\n

My last day took me to Tis\u00e1, famous for its sandstone formations that resemble a city of petrified giants. The journey there is beautiful in itself: two buses winding their way up the mountain until the village of Tis\u00e1 opens up like a gateway to another world. Across from the large parking lot is a lovely, modern little coffee shop with perfect coffee and delicious homemade pastries: Tyssa Caf\u00e9. <\/p>\n\n

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The hike through the famous Tis\u00e1 rock walls is short but intense. You descend into crevices, climb over boulders, and at times it feels as if you\u2019ve stepped into a movie set. Everything is massive, monumental, and yet quiet\u2014aside from a few hikers, a stray school class, or a small group of rappellers. <\/p>\n\n

And then: the downhill scooter tour all the way back to D\u011b\u010d\u00edn. Not an electric scooter, but a sturdy \u201ckickbike\u201d with thick tires. You roll back down at your own pace, past forests, mountain meadows, and open vistas (bookable through Active Point). But first, lunch at Turistick\u00e1 chata Tis\u00e1\u2014a cozy chalet serving hearty fare. <\/p>\n\n

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After that, I took a short detour to the D\u011b\u010d\u00ednsk\u00fd Sn\u011b\u017en\u00edk Lookout Tower, where you have to climb up with your scooter in hand, but the phenomenal view of the region makes it worth the effort. There\u2019s also a small restaurant with a terrace at the top of the mountain, featuring a charming retro interior from the 1960s: Restaurace a Penzion Pod Rozhlednou. You can also ask for the key to access the tower here. <\/p>\n\n

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Traveling slowly is not a luxury, but a choice<\/h1>\n\n

What really stuck with me was how well this region lends itself to active travel with a small environmental footprint. Here, you can hike, canoe, bike, and even ride a scooter\u2014all while using public transportation and the overnight train as your base. It\u2019s not a destination for those seeking comfort and convenience, but rather for those who enjoy putting in a little effort. Making your own bed on the train. Planning your own routes with an app like Mapy.cz. Peeking through a little curtain at 3:00 a.m. and realizing: I\u2019m on the road somewhere. <\/p>\n\n

And that sense of being on the move\u2014that slow, tangible journey\u2014is what made this trip so special. The European Sleeper brought us close to nature, without having to fly or drive for hours on end. D\u011b\u010d\u00edn may be only an hour and a half from Prague<\/a>, but it feels like a place where time has stood still for a while. <\/p>\n\n

On Friday morning, I arrived back at Amsterdam Central Station. Tired, dusty, content. My head was filled with rocks, forests, river bends, and views. And somewhere in my bag was a bit of sand, proof that I\u2019d really been there. <\/p>\n\n

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Czech-Style Hospitality<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n

In D\u011b\u010d\u00edn, you\u2019ll meet people who don\u2019t immediately throw their arms around you. The Czech character is generally reserved, down-to-earth, and discreet. No excessive small talk or scripted hospitality, but rather a quiet efficiency and a dry, often ironic sense of humor. At first, people may seem a bit reserved, but if you make the effort to break the ice, you\u2019ll often be rewarded with warm, genuine attention. <\/p>\n\n

That down-to-earth hospitality actually fit the trip perfectly: no frills, just space, tranquility, and people who, above all, remain true to themselves.<\/p>\n\n

Hotels and Restaurants in D\u011b\u010d\u00edn<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n