{"id":37133,"date":"2025-03-17T16:35:26","date_gmt":"2025-03-17T15:35:26","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/naturetravellab.com\/niet-gecategoriseerd\/northern-vosges-an-undiscovered-nature-reserve\/"},"modified":"2026-06-25T16:25:49","modified_gmt":"2026-06-25T14:25:49","slug":"northern-vosges-an-undiscovered-nature-reserve","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/naturetravellab.com\/en\/vosges\/northern-vosges-an-undiscovered-nature-reserve\/","title":{"rendered":"Northern Vosges, an undiscovered nature reserve"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

The Northern Vosges? A little-known paradise for hiking, biking, and horseback riding<\/strong>.<\/h1>\n\n

For many Dutch people, the Northern Vosges is a blind spot. And that\u2019s a shame! More than half of this region is covered in forests. There are countless biking and hiking trails, picturesque villages, canals, and lakes\u2014and you can enjoy fantastic French cuisine with a German twist. In Pays de Bitche, Bitcherland (no, that\u2019s not a lame joke), you\u2019ll practically stumble\u2014literally\u2014over the castle ruins. <\/p>\n\n

Plus, it\u2019s nice and close. The Northern Vosges region near the German border is a beautiful nature park. It\u2019s high time to explore the northeasternmost tip of France. I took a guided tour through the area, visiting all the most beautiful spots. <\/p>\n\n

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\"Celine<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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\"Celine<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n

Hike to Falkenstein Castle<\/h2>\n\n

During our first climb to the ruins of Falkenstein Castle, I try to keep up with my experienced guide, C\u00e9line. \u201cAre you okay?\u201d she asks with a mischievous twinkle in her eyes. I focus on the forest trail leading upward and just nod to catch my breath. It\u2019s still very early in the morning, and the forest has a fairy-tale-like atmosphere. The thick canopy of beech and oak trees along the path is a mix of bright red and yellow. The tree trunks seem much taller and thicker than the ones back home. We continue walking uphill at a steady pace, and then suddenly, through the thick patches of fog, the red-colored sandstone walls of Falkenstein Castle loom into view. Well, \u201ccastle\u201d\u2014the remains of what must once have been an immense fortress. <\/p>\n\n

I love castles, and here in the northern Vosges<\/a>, you can really indulge your passion. According to C\u00e9line, the dense forests in this part of France were full of dangers during the Middle Ages. The border region was of enormous strategic importance to the Dukes of Lorraine on one side and the Holy Roman (German) Empire on the other. In the12th<\/sup> century, impressive fortresses carved out of the rock began to spring up. <\/p>\n\n

Falkenstein Castle dates back to 1125, making it one of the oldest fortresses in the region. You shouldn\u2019t be afraid of heights here. A steep staircase and a narrow path lead us upward. In one of the rooms, fog swirls in. I marvel at the deep red color of the sandstone walls. <\/p>\n\n

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\"Enchanting<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n

A mystical atmosphere in a historic area<\/h2>\n\n

\u201cThe Vosges were formed between 135 million and 60 million years ago,\u201d C\u00e9line explains. \u201cThe red sandstone rock formations you see everywhere here were brought to the surface by plate tectonics.\u201d An impressive story. This morning, we\u2019re the only visitors. At the very top, you\u2019d normally have a fantastic view of the dense forests, but the sun just can\u2019t quite break through the thick fog. I don\u2019t think it\u2019s a disaster, though, because those wisps of fog add to the mystical atmosphere. We fall silent for a moment to enjoy this magical place. You can\u2019t hear a thing. No birdsong, nothing. Let alone cars. <\/p>\n\n

Lynx in a biosphere reserve on the border with Germany<\/h2>\n\n

As we begin our descent again, C\u00e9line explains that the Pays de Bitche is part of a cross-border UNESCO biosphere reserve. In the past, the French and Germans faced off here with weapons, but today they collaborate on research into the unique animal and plant species found here. Think of peregrine falcons nesting in the rocks, ravens, and many species of frogs. And as the icing on the cake, lynx now live here again as well\u2014they were previously reintroduced on the German side. The animals are monitored by German and French researchers. By the way, the chances of spotting Europe\u2019s largest feline are minimal, as they\u2019re very shy and live deep in the forests. <\/p>\n\n

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\"Walking<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n

More from Hanau in the Northern Vosges Nature Reserve<\/h2>\n\n

Less than three kilometers from the ruins of Falkenstein, the landscape is completely different. Before lunch, we take a walk along Lake Hanau, which is part of the Rochers et tourbi\u00e8res du Pays de Bitche nature reserve. This marshland is known among biologists for its rare carnivorous plants, graceful white-faced dragonflies, bats, and owls. <\/p>\n\n

To give nature some breathing room, some areas are closed to hikers. But fortunately, hiking trails have also been built. Lake Hanau lies there like a mirror. The trees, with their multicolored foliage, are reflected in the water. \u201cSssshhh,\u201d C\u00e9line says suddenly as we walk along a wooden boardwalk by the water. Less than ten meters away, a little squirrel sits right next to the path. Its fluffy ears are perked up, and it\u2019s wagging its thick tail. When it spots us, it leaps into a bush like a circus performer. We continue walking quietly. C\u00e9line explains that in the Middle Ages, many trees were cut down to build castles and houses. The lake was created by monks who needed fish for their meatless days. <\/p>\n\n

Waldeck Castle and Sp\u00e4tzle<\/h2>\n\n

You can see Waldeck Castle from a distance. It\u2019s a typical rock castle. \u201cThe castle dates back to the13th<\/sup> century. Sometime around 1645, it was virtually destroyed during the Thirty Years\u2019 War. Only one tower remains, because Waldeck was never rebuilt,\u201d says C\u00e9line. Unfortunately, the castle is closed to visitors, but from the foot of the ruins, we still have a beautiful view of the remains of the rock castle and the surrounding area. <\/p>\n\n

\u201cWe\u2019ve certainly earned a hearty lunch, haven\u2019t we?\u201d says C\u00e9line as we walk back to the car. We have a bike ride planned for this afternoon, so we can afford to burn off a few calories. At a little restaurant just outside Bitche, we eat Sp\u00e4tzle<\/em>, made according to a grandmother\u2019s recipe\u2014a thick pasta with a delicious cheese sauce. Just this once, I let myself be tempted by a glass of Pinot Noir from the Grand Est region at lunchtime. When in Rome, do as the Romans do. <\/p>\n\n

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\"Bike<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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\"Bitche<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n

Green Bike Tour Through the German-French Border Region<\/h2>\n\n

Before I have a chance to get flushed, we leave the restaurant. Our steel e-bikes are already waiting outside. The sun is shining brightly as we cycle out of Bitche. It\u2019s great that they have separate bike paths here\u2014that way, you don\u2019t have to deal with car traffic. We opt for a \u201cgreen\u201d route of about 30 kilometers toward Pirmasens, across the border into Germany. Forest trails alternate with valleys and tiny villages with German-French-sounding names like Hanviller, Bousseviller, and Waldhouse. In Bousseviller, we stop briefly at a small chapel dedicated to Saint Odilia. The walls of the chapel are a soft yellow, and a black sphere sits atop the church tower. The whole scene stands out beautifully against the landscape. Along the way, we only occasionally come across other cyclists. It\u2019s wonderful to have the place all to ourselves at this time of year. <\/p>\n\n

We\u2019ll have to pedal hard on the way back because we want to visit the citadel of Bitche before it gets dark. The sun is already setting as we approach the town. You can\u2019t miss the citadel\u2014its long, sturdy walls tower high above the town. Now that\u2019s a masterpiece of military architecture. We head underground, where scenes from the film *The Besieged Fortress* by director G\u00e9rard Mordillat are shown in the various rooms. This really gives you a good sense of what life must have been like for soldiers during the Franco-Prussian War of 1870. <\/p>\n\n

Staying Overnight at the Wildlife Park<\/h2>\n\n

It\u2019s pitch dark by now as I drive along narrow forest roads toward my lodging. About an hour from Bitche, you can stay in a lodge, Treehouse, or Yurt among the deer, mouflons, and other wildlife at Parc Animalier Sainte Croix. What could be more fun than waking up in the morning to all those animal sounds? This first taste of the northern Vosges has left me wanting (much) more. <\/p>\n\n

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Practical Information: Northern Vosges<\/h2>\n\n\n\n