{"id":37267,"date":"2024-11-30T18:47:31","date_gmt":"2024-11-30T17:47:31","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/naturetravellab.com\/niet-gecategoriseerd\/the-haute-loire-hiking-tips\/"},"modified":"2026-06-25T16:27:34","modified_gmt":"2026-06-25T14:27:34","slug":"the-haute-loire-hiking-tips","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/naturetravellab.com\/en\/france\/auvergne-rhone-alpes\/the-haute-loire-hiking-tips\/","title":{"rendered":"The Haute-Loire | Hiking Tips"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

The Haute-Loire: A Highlight for Hikers in the Lush South of Auvergne<\/h1>\n\n

The Loire River can truly be called the queen of rivers. The longest \u201cwild\u201d river in France has its source in the Haute-Loire, a department located between the cities of Lyon and Clermont-Ferrand. This lush region in the Auvergne is a paradise for nature lovers, hikers, and those seeking peace and quiet. <\/p>\n\n

And that\u2019s why we\u2019re here. The most important question we have to answer today is: are we going rafting<\/em> or hiking?<\/em> The great thing is that we can do both, because if you walk through Chamali\u00e8res-sur-Loire and follow the GR3 signs, you\u2019ll end up at the rafting spot without even realizing it. <\/p>\n\n

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\"Auvergne<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Auvergne<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n

The GR3, France’s oldest hiking trail<\/h2>\n\n

After less than ten minutes, we\u2019re already crawling and creeping through the tall, wet grass. You have to watch your step here so you don\u2019t slip on the slippery trail. But taking it easy is certainly no punishment, because down by the water\u2019s edge, bright red poppies stand out beautifully against the picturesque village of Chamali\u00e8res across the way. I spot a Romanesque church with graceful arches. <\/p>\n\n

This hiking trail is also close to the route to Santiago de Compostela. Along the way, we\u2019ve already seen the symbol of the pilgrimage route, the famous St. James shell. As we walk along the riverbank, we see rafts passing by with people paddling wildly inside them. Our hiking trail briefly turns into a small paved road that leads through a typical sleepy little village. <\/p>\n\n

After the village, the road turns into a steep, gravel-covered forest path. Once we reach the top, we look out over a deep valley through which the green Loire River winds. We take a moment to catch our breath and enjoy the view. <\/p>\n\n

\"Auvergne<\/figure>\n\n
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The Haute-Loire is a beautiful department in the Auvergne region. Its remarkably varied landscape was shaped by hundreds of volcanoes in the most extraordinary forms. Rivers and small lakes have carved their way through and around them. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The GR3 is France\u2019s oldest hiking trail and runs right through the Haute-Loire. If you have the energy\u2014and the time\u2014you can hike all the way from the mouth of the Loire, where we are now, to the Atlantic Ocean. Starting in Aurec-sur-Loire, it follows the course of the Loire all the way to Mont Gerbier de Jonc in the Ard\u00e8che. Covering a distance of about 230 km, you can hike the GR in about 12 days. <\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n

Peace and quiet and untamed nature in the Haute-Loire<\/h2>\n\n

A little further on, the landscape changes completely, with ferns and deciduous trees here and there. We also see huge mushrooms along the path. Some of them have been nibbled on a bit. There are many legends about gnomes in this area, and I can easily imagine that in a setting like this. <\/p>\n\n

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\"Auvergne-Haute-Loire—View<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Auvergne<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n

We head back downhill and continue along the winding Loire River. On this stretch of the G3, we hardly come across any other hikers. What a difference from the Ard\u00e8che, which isn\u2019t far from here. That\u2019s truly one of the great advantages of this area. There\u2019s still very little tourism, so you can fully enjoy the untamed wilderness. <\/p>\n\n

Singing Evenings on the Loire <\/strong><\/h2>\n\n

The water of the Loire is crystal clear and really freezing cold. We have a \u201ccanoraft,\u201d as they call it in France. That means two people sit in an inflatable boat. After a thorough explanation, we\u2019re given a snug-fitting wetsuit, a helmet, and a paddle. Rafting is really great once you get the hang of it. After an hour of vigorous paddling, we pass Chamali\u00e8res-sur-Loire, which we walked past this morning. A little later, we pull the boat ashore. On the campground\u2019s cozy terrace, we enjoy a locally brewed beer. <\/p>\n\n

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\"Auvergne<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Auvergne<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n

We don\u2019t feel like cooking ourselves, so we end up at a restaurant in the tiny hamlet of Solignac sous Roche. A fitting name\u2014\u201croche\u201d\u2014because the restaurant, Auberge Lou Pinatou, sits atop a rock surrounded by magnificent views of no fewer than three mountain ranges. We\u2019re told that they\u2019ve been cooking up a storm here for 150 years. You can tell from everything that the food here is prepared by people who are truly passionate about it. Everything is prepared with care and love and served with pride. <\/p>\n\n

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\"Auvergne<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Auvergne<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Auvergne<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n

Le Plateau de laDanse<\/strong> <\/h2>\n\n

The next morning, we\u2019re out and about early again. About an hour from our lodging lies Saint-Victor-sur-Loire, just west of Saint-\u00c9tienne, the department\u2019s capital. Here, the river winds its way through the landscape, as it were, through a gorge. The area is teeming with hiking trails. Today we\u2019re going for an easy hike: the Plateau de la Danse. <\/p>\n\n

Meadows, forests, rocky areas, and the occasional glimpse of the winding river below make for a very varied landscape. We walk to the lookout point on a rock where, far below, lies the medieval village of Saint-Victor-sur-Loire with its little harbor. The jagged gorge resembles a giant snake. In the distance across the river, I can see the sandstone towers of Ch\u00e2teau d\u2019Essalois peeking out from among the dense forest. <\/p>\n\n

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\"Auvergne<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Auvergne<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n

Who says there aren\u2019t any castles here? They just look very different from those further north. No frills or fuss, just sturdy fortresses built to withstand a beating. D\u2019Essalois Castle was first mentioned in the14th<\/sup> century. You can visit it for free, and the view is priceless. <\/p>\n\n

An electric boat tour on the Loire<\/h2>\n\n

We make our way down gently and then board an electric (!) tour boat.<\/a> The little harbor of Saint-Victor-sur-Loire is situated on a huge reservoir. As we enjoy the view gliding by, an enthusiastic guide\u2014clearly proud of her area\u2014provides us with commentary. Meanwhile, we\u2019re also treated to a delicious lunch. We cruise through a fabulous landscape with beautiful, gleaming granite rocks and the occasional medieval village. <\/p>\n\n

Then, suddenly, a small island comes into view. This is \u00cele de Grangent, featuring a castle and a chapel. This imposing castle once stood on a rock dozens of meters above the Loire. Since the construction of the dam, it has become an island. It\u2019s truly impressive. Unfortunately, you can\u2019t visit it\u2014you can only admire it from a distance. <\/p>\n\n

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\"Auvergne<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Auvergne<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n

After an hour on the water, we return to the little harbor. We\u2019re fully recharged and ready for another hike in this stunning region. There are plenty of options! The Haute-Loire is known as the \u201cgreen south\u201d of Auvergne, and as far as we\u2019re concerned, it\u2019s a highlight for hikers. <\/p>\n\n

Practical Tips for Hiking in Haute-Loire <\/h2>\n\n