Parc du Pilat, officially known as the Parc Naturel du Pilat, is relatively unknown among the Dutch. The wines, goat cheese, and fruits from this region enjoy star status in France itself. This nature park, located between Lyon and Saint-Étienne, is just a bit larger than Texel.
With major attractions nearby like the Ardèche, Lyon, and Vienne, it’s easy to overlook the Pilat Nature Park. But that would truly be a missed opportunity, because its charm lies precisely in the fact that this park is still relatively undiscovered.
The landscape is varied: from hills covered with vineyards to picturesque medieval villages, forests, and beautiful views of the Rhône River; on a clear day, you can see the French Alps.
Of course, you can ride through the park on a regular bike or an e-bike, but I’m really glad I rented an e-mountain bike. In Pilat Nature Park, you can climb to an altitude of 1,430 meters (at Crêt de la Perdrix), and with an e-mountain bike, you can fly up the steep trails as if it were nothing. A narrow path leads almost straight up. I pass fruit orchards so heavily laden that the branches almost touch the ground. At the top, I’m treated to a magnificent view of the Rhône Valley. Lush grapevines grow here right up to the riverbanks. I’m amazed by the variety of shades of green in the landscape. I never knew there were so many shades of green.
Further on, the landscape becomes more rugged and the roads wind upward. As I round the bend, I see a medieval village, Malleval, that seems to blend into the surrounding mountains. Its ominous name, loosely translated as “Valley of Evil,” hints at a turbulent history. Over the centuries, one army after another marched through here. These days, you’ll see nothing more than hikers, e-bikes, and (e-)mountain bikes.
Depending on the weather, you can enjoy about 2,000 kilometers of cycling here. An e-bike makes it accessible to everyone. The park has 31 mountain bike loops for the most beautiful off-road rides.
I explored the park by bike, but you can just as easily do it on foot. The park offers no less than 2,500 kilometers of hiking trails. Pilat was even one of the first parks in France to have marked hiking trails. The park has established 9 routes; most villages have marked “walking loops,” and there are 3 long-distance trails.
The trails run along the Rhône, through the hills, and along the peaks—the crêts—of the mountains. The routes remain easily passable throughout, although you’ll occasionally have to navigate over boulders. The elevation ranges from 1,300 to about 1,400 meters. The GR65, the route to Santiago de Compostela, also crosses through the Parc du Pilat.
One of the most beautiful hiking trails is the “Crêts du Pilat.” It runs entirely along the ridges and is located in the heart of the Crest Nature Reserve. You’ll enjoy fantastic views of the surrounding mountains, including the Jura Mountains, the Alps, and the peaks of the Ardèche.
Once I’ve taken in the breathtaking view, I cycle on to the charming, cozy chambre d’hôtes Le Grand Noë, run byCatherine and Denis Bruneton, right in the middle of the nature reserve. At the end of the day, the setting sun gives the reddish-yellow sandstone walls of the former farmhouse an even warmer glow. Along the side of the house stand lush red rose bushes that stand out vividly against the light blue shutters. In the spacious garden with a view over the valley. A serene calm prevails. This is the perfect place to retreat with a magazine and a glass of local wine or one of the refreshing, regionally brewed organic beers.
Tomorrow, we have a long hike and a canoe trip down the Loire River on the agenda. What a discovery this area is!
Met een passie voor reizen en fotografie én meer dan 30 jaar ervaring in de reisbranche, deel ik graag mijn bijzondere natuur-reistips. Reizen is heerlijk en belangrijk, je ontmoet nieuwe mensen en culturen en het opent je blik op de wereld.
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Laat je inspireren
Ben je op zoek naar de mooiste wandel- en fietsroutes? Of wil je informatie over reizen met de trein of advies voor de mooiste roadtrips door de natuur. Laat je inspireren voor je volgende reis in het groen; ideeën om je eigen reis te plannen of te kiezen voor een georganiseerde reis.
