After a relaxing train ride from Amsterdam—still basking in the late summer sun—to Laax, Switzerland, we’re greeted by the crisp mountain air of Graubünden. At that moment, I don’t yet realize that this air is a sign of the first snowfall. The Rockresort Hotel in Laax is our base: modern, sustainable, and, with its sedum roof, completely in harmony with the surrounding mountains. The perfect place to experience fall.
Our geological adventure begins in the Sardona Tectonic Arena—a place where, in the distant past, Mother Nature revealed her most explosive side. Here, you can still clearly see how, due to the collision of the African and European tectonic plates, the 250- to 300-million-year-old rock was thrust over the younger rock, which is 30 to 35 million years old. This created a visible, straight dividing line across the mountains. In 2008, UNESCO designated the area a World Heritage Site because of this exceptional visibility of geological processes that lead to mountain formation and are normally hidden beneath the Earth’s crust.
To see this mountain wonder up close, we took a local bus that morning along a winding road to Alp Nagens, at an altitude of nearly 2,000 meters . Due to the thick fog, the iconic jagged peaks of the Tsceenhingelhörner remain a surprise until the cloud cover clears later that morning. The first snow of the season had blanketed the mountain peaks that night, immersing us in a magical and mystically serene landscape with nothing but the sound of crunching snow beneath our hiking boots.
From the Stalla Alp Nagens bus stop, we make our way toward Segnesboden, a vast and mysterious alpine meadow crisscrossed by streams fed by waterfalls, glaciers, and springs from the surrounding limestone mountains. This must undoubtedly be a wild and enchanting setting during the summer months. Now, the Flem River glistens like a lost diamond as it winds its way through the rocks and snow. It’s as if we’ve stepped into another world, and it feels as though time has stood still until we see a family of chamois passing by and spot a mountain marmot that also seems to be looking a bit uneasily at the blanket of snow.
Our guide, Christian Suter, is a walking encyclopedia and speaks passionately about how the Alps were formed by the collision of tectonic plates. Armed with photos, drawings, and even a pipette bottle of hydrochloric acid, he’ll explain—as if in a chemistry lab—about acid rain and the eroded limestone formations that shape the winding course of the Flem River.
During the descent down the Trutg dil Flem , which is steep in places On the hike from Segnesboden to Startgels, I felt a strong connection to the rugged wilderness beneath my feet. As I followed the trail and watched the snow slowly melt away, I could hear the water of the Flem rushing through the narrow gorges carved into the weathered sandstone.
The sandstone’s beautiful rounded shapes, worn down by sediment and centuries of water’s force, give this riverbed a dynamic character. With every step you take here, you can feel the earth’s indomitable spirit, even as the water has carved its way through it.
Along the Trutg dil Flem, you’ll cross seven modern bridges designed by architect Jürg Conzett; strategically placed, they offer a unique view of the surrounding rock formations and waterfalls.
We took a moment to let all this beauty and the majesty of nature sink in over lunch at Bergrestaurant Ustria Stargels, where the food is cooked over a wood fire and the portions are generous and exceptionally tasty.
This hike, called “The Waterway Trutg dil Flem,” is 9 km long from Ustria to Stagels and takes 3 hours to complete. If you continue on to the village of Flims, the total distance is 14.4 km and the hike takes 4 hours. The best months to hike this route are from May through October. The difficulty level is moderate, and the trail is almost entirely flat or downhill. The elevation gain is over 1,000 meters, from 2,100 meters above sea level to 1,087 meters above sea level in the valley. Be sure to wear good hiking boots and always bring rain gear.
Public transportation services in the Laax-Flims area can be used free of charge with a guest card or mountain train ticket. A surcharge is required for buses to Nagens and Bargis.
Various bus passes offer a 50% discount on this surcharge and these routes.
Of course, you can use the Swiss Travel Pass for public transportation.
Public transportation tickets are also available online via SBB Mobile, the SBB shop, and at ticket machines (including the one at the Laax-posta stop). Read more about prices and departure times here.
We’ll take the brand-new FlemXpress gondola down back to the Flims valley. This innovative cable car uses a flexible, demand-driven system, which means the gondolas only depart when there are passengers, saving energy and minimizing wait times.
Thanks to this technology, you can travel directly to various stations along the route without unnecessary stops, just like an elevator. The system uses renewable energy sources, which aligns perfectly with the sustainability goals of the Flims Laax region—more on that later.
This hike is further proof that Mother Nature occasionally really flexes her muscles. We start this hike at the Rock Resort hotel in Laax and descend into the impressive Rhine Gorge (Ruinalta)—it’s easy to draw a comparison with the Grand Canyon.
During this hike, we get a fascinating glimpse of yet another major geological event in the Alps: the Flims landslide. Ranger Daniela Berther tells us that about 10,000 years ago, a massive mass of rock tumbled down from the mountains and crashed into the valley. More than 10 billion cubic meters of material was dislodged, forming the basis of the current landscape, including the Rhine Gorge—a dramatic and rugged landscape of steep cliffs and rugged gorges.
What begins as a leisurely walk through the woods quickly turns into a journey of discovery through a highly varied landscape. The first stop is the idyllic turquoise Lake Cauma. Surrounded by dense forest and dotted with small, overgrown islands, it offers a stunning contrast to the rugged natural beauty of the surrounding mountains and gorges. The lake is a popular destination, especially in the summer when you can swim there.
Lunch at Restaurant Conn, near the Il Spir viewpoint, turns out to be the perfect break. We unanimously choose Grandma’s ravioli stuffed with dried pears, caramelized onions, and Swiss mountain cheese.
A short walk then takes us to the Il Spir viewpoint where we look straight down into the gorge at a dizzying 400 meters. It’s a spectacular panoramic view where you can see the Rhine winding through the landscape in a large horseshoe shape. The Rhätische Bahn’s characteristic red train in the valley near the Chrummwag Railway Tunnel looks like a miniature model.
The Rhine rises just 30 km from here; I never knew that these first few kilometers were among its most beautiful.
From Il Spir, we began our descent to the bottom of the gorge, where we continued along the banks of the Rhine and across the Isla Bella Bridge to the Versam-Safien train station. Along the way, we even passed through a small stretch of subtropical forest.
You could also continue on to the Valendas-Sagogn train station or linger a while in the river valley, go for a swim, or build a fire. There’s a specially designated fire pit for this purpose, and the supply of firewood is always kept stocked, says ranger Daniele. That afternoon, the train and a bus take us back to Laax.
This hike is 9 kilometers long and takes about 3.5 hours. The elevation gain is 630 meters, with a few steeper descents toward the Rijnkloof. It’s a relatively easy hike that’s best done from May through October. If in doubt, check here to see if the trail is accessible.
Want to know where you can build a fire? Check it out here: fire pits for a safe fire-building experience in nature.
Thanks to the efforts of the Weisse Arena Group, Laax and Flims have developed into leading, sustainable vacation destinations, ideal for nature lovers. During the Greenstyle Tour, led by Reto Fry, environmental coordinator of the Weisse Arena Group, the ambitious plans to transform Laax into a fully self-sufficient Alpine resort are outlined.
Since 2008, electricity has been generated primarily from hydropower, supplemented by solar energy from solar panels installed on buildings such as the Crap Sogn Gion station. More than 60 energy-efficiency measures have been implemented, including the installation of smart LED lighting and the energy-efficient “on-demand” gondola system, the FlemXpress gondola, which consumes 50% less energy than traditional cable cars. In addition, the resort uses eco-friendly snow cannons that use water more efficiently without adding harmful chemicals.
The hiking trails around Laax have also been carefully designed with a focus on preserving biodiversity and minimizing the ecological impact.
Through projects focused on waste reduction and water conservation, Laax is proving that nature conservation and ecotourism can go hand in hand. The challenges are enormous and the investments immense, but I sincerely hope that the area will be rewarded with a snowline that does not recede any further.
At the back of the Laax Rock Resort grounds, you’ll see a tall wooden tower: the Senda dil Dragun. This is the world’s longest treetop walkway, which opened in July 2021. The 1.56-kilometer-long trail not only offers stunning views but also features five platforms where you can learn fun facts about Laax’s natural environment.
It is an educational trail designed to raise visitors’ awareness of the local flora and fauna. It’s especially fun for children, as there are marble runs and audio messages from the world of Ami Sabi and his friends, making it a playful experience for the whole family.
For a real adrenaline rush, two new activities have recently been added to the tower. True adventurers can choose between the Vertical Drop, where you free-fall 30 meters, or the 220-meter-long zipline, which takes you soaring over the Park rock resort. Both activities start from the entrance tower in Laax Murschetg.
We’d already had our fill of adventure that day, so we decided to take a walk along the Senda dil Dragun trail to our next destination, the wellnessHostel3000 , on the other side of Laax.
The weather in Laax has cleared up, and I’m getting ready for one last solo hike in Bargis. The Bargis plateau, at an elevation of 1,550 meters, lies hidden behind a rock face formed by the Flims landslide. I take the shuttle bus—for which a small surcharge applies—to this high plateau. The plateau looks like a postcard, thanks to its vast expanse and the small tributaries of the Flem River that crisscross the landscape. Here, the cows are still grazing lazily in the autumn sunshine.
Bargis is perfect for a leisurely walk, even with children or people with limited mobility. It’s a flat, circular walk of about 40 minutes around the meadow, where you can fully enjoy the mountain scenery. Afterward, enjoy a delicious lunch or try the signature plum cake at the 100-year-old Berghaus Bargis restaurant. The bus departs from here back down to the valley.
I set out without a plan, and my first steps felt light; I found myself looking forward to what lay ahead. Not necessarily the plateau itself, but especially the mountains surrounding it. It turned into a spontaneous hike toward Alp Lavadignas, during which I found myself drawn deeper and deeper into the landscape.
Slowly, I climbed higher, and Bargis was soon a good distance below me, with the cows appearing as tiny dots in the distance. When I arrived at Alp Lavadignas—recognizable by a bridge with a small mountain cottage and garden right behind it—it wasn’t just the landscape that changed. The temperature dropped slightly, and there was a light dusting of snow on the ground. Although it wasn’t much, it added a lovely extra dimension to the hike.
I was drawn even further into the landscape. The sun, pale but still present, shone through the thin clouds, giving the landscape an almost ethereal atmosphere. The warmth of summer was gone, but the icy chill of winter had not yet taken hold of the landscape.
For a moment there, I was truly alone with nature. The silence was almost palpable. I had a fantastic view of the mountains all around me, but at the same time, I realized I didn’t have enough food with me to keep walking any further.
From this point, it was still quite a distance to Alp Mora and the famous glacial mills I’d read about. Deep, round holes in the rock, formed by centuries-old meltwater. They must be impressive, so Alp Mora was calling to me, but you shouldn’t take risks in the mountains, so I’m adding this destination to my list for a future visit. I sat on a rock for a while longer, enjoying the view and the silence, and then turned back. I could already smell the soup from Berghaus Bargis in my mind.
Want to know where the cows are grazing during your hike in Graubünden? Check here: live location of herds of cows.
After a long day in the mountains, there’s nothing better than relaxing at the WellnessHostel3000. This modern hostel combines affordable accommodations with luxurious wellness facilities.
The building features clean lines and large windows, allowing you to enjoy a stunning view of the surrounding mountains from the spacious central area. There’s also a cozy bar and a pool table here. The hostel serves simple but tasty meals, perfect if you’re looking for a healthy meal without all the fuss. It’s an ideal spot if you appreciate comfort, relaxation, and a great location. There are dorms as well as single and double rooms.
The creation of wellnessHostel3000 in Laax began with a dream the mayor had. He had long wanted a swimming pool for his residents and therefore sought to partner with Swiss Hostels.
The wellnessHostel3000 is not only a popular place to stay for travelers, but also plays an important role in the community life of Laax.
Residents make full use of the pool and wellness center, and the common areas have become a gathering place for both locals and tourists. I can attest to this because, just as I was checking in, the mayor, Franz Gschwend, walked into the main lobby himself!
Click here to see our other hiking trips.
Mieke Tacken
Ik ben interieurontwerper, fotograaf en een fervent liefhebber van wandelen in de natuur. Ik heb mijn hart verloren aan de eenvoud en schoonheid van wandelvakanties. Ik waardeer ik ook de unieke ervaring van een verblijf dat een verhaal vertelt over de lokale geschiedenis of cultuur. Ik deel hier mijn verhalen en tips, waar mogelijk met een lichte voetafdruk en altijd een hart vol verwondering.
Met een passie voor reizen en fotografie én meer dan 30 jaar ervaring in de reisbranche, deel ik graag mijn bijzondere natuur-reistips. Reizen is heerlijk en belangrijk, je ontmoet nieuwe mensen en culturen en het opent je blik op de wereld.
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Laat je inspireren
Ben je op zoek naar de mooiste wandel- en fietsroutes? Of wil je informatie over reizen met de trein of advies voor de mooiste roadtrips door de natuur. Laat je inspireren voor je volgende reis in het groen; ideeën om je eigen reis te plannen of te kiezen voor een georganiseerde reis.
