I have to admit, I hardly knew anything about Vesteralen before this trip. You always hear about the Lofoten. Vesteralen is the archipelago that lies just beyond it. Less prominent on the map, less prominent on Instagram. And that turned out to be exactly the reason to go there.
The mountains here are gentler and more rounded than in the Lofoten Islands. They may be less dramatic in photos, but they get under your skin more deeply when you spend a few days here. It’s quieter, more expansive, and more authentic. And it’s the best place to truly understand northern Norway.
“I was expecting the Lofoten Islands, and they were beautiful. Vesteralen surprised me. That’s exactly how it should be.”
Our Complete Slow Travel Tour of Lofoten and Vesteralen
We took the ferry from Fiskebøl to Melbu on the island of Hadseløya. You can also drive through the tunnel. Vesteralen begins here, northeast of the Lofoten Islands. The atmosphere changes immediately. More open space. Less traffic. Fewer people crowding the same viewpoint.
Stokmarknes has a population of about 2,000 and is the birthplace of Hurtigruten, the coastal route that has connected Norway from Bergen to Kirkenes since 1893. A visit to the Hurtigruten Museum is highly recommended. Not only because of the enormous ship around which the museum is built—and which you can explore in its entirety—but also because it helps you understand what the Hurtigruten has meant for the culture of Northern Norway. As a postal service, a supply route, a lifeline. Part of the ship’s first-class men’s lounge was rediscovered in the Netherlands. Now it stands here.
I stayed at the Richard With Hotel, named after a former Hurtigruten captain. It’s a very good hotel, larger than the typical NTL standard, but it has a Nordic Swan ecolabel and a serious goal: to be climate-neutral by 2030 and reduce food waste by 50%.
Restaurant 1893 (named after the year Hurtigruten was founded) was the biggest surprise. Chef Iver Denis-Petrie is 29 years old, has a youthful, student-like appearance, and passionately conjures up the most delicious dishes—mostly using local ingredients. He personally and carefully selected the accompanying wines. I wish I could have spent more evenings there.
On Vesteralen, Anna and her husband make organic non-alcoholic wine: “Snille Bergitha” (Sweet Birgitta). But she also makes an “Angry Bergitha,” the stronger version. At Norheim Gard, they operate on a fully circular business model, and 20% of their proceeds go toward sustainable projects.
The wind here can be relentless. Garden benches are bolted to the ground so they won’t be blown away. You can see from everything that people here live in harmony with the elements of nature—and with a passion for nature. You can taste that passion in the delicious wine, too.
Martha Haugen Gard is located on the island of Langøya. It’s an organic sheep farm that also serves as a farm-to-table restaurant. The charming Maya greets us enthusiastically just as a few sheep are giving birth.
She makes her own natural cosmetics, displays handmade Sami clothing, and talks about the history of the farm and the surrounding area. There were once Viking and Sami settlements here.
Lunch is simple yet special: soup made with ingredients from their own garden. And then there’s that carrot cake. The best I’ve ever tasted. Seriously.
Maya took over the farm from her parents in 1988 and has since converted it to fully organic farming, driven by the conviction that caring for the planet is not a choice but a matter of course. Martha Haugen Gard is also a member of Hanen, the Norwegian quality network for rural tourism and local products.
At Marmelkroken , our wonderful trip is slowly coming to an end. And I have to say: they saved the best for last. Most of the rooms and cabins overlook the sea, while a mountain rises up on the landward side.
What I found most beautiful and soothing was the large tree with a round bench surrounding it—a symbol of the circle of life. In the morning, I walked over to that tree with a cup of coffee in my hand. The sense of connection with nature was immense.
Owner Lisbeth has created a place here that has been sustainably cultivated, resulting in wild biodiversity. Birds flit about the grounds. In the evening, we enjoy a delicious meal at the restaurant. We sample the rare and healthy mountain blackberry for dessert. And just as we’re getting into bed, Lisbeth sends a message: “It’s starting.”
| Stay | Marmelkroken, Bø in Andøy |
| Rooms | 8 studio apartments, 1 apartment, 1 cabin |
| Restaurant | Yes: local products, ocean view; breakfast included with double rooms |
| Network | Hanen member |
| Books | Directly |
Everything you need to know about accommodations and booking: Marmelkroken on Andøya
After an hour of peering into the sky and shivering in our pajamas, we’re standing on the porch in the middle of the night, cheering ecstatically as the Northern Lights put on a magnificent show. April is pretty unusual for the Northern Lights, but this spot is so dark that it’s possible. I hadn’t expected it. It was the highlight of this trip dedicated to nature and slowing down.
Near Marmelkroken, we drive past Atelier Nøss. Siri (an artist) and her brother Espen (a photographer) have turned their father’s old sheep barn—their father being the well-known Norwegian artist Gunnar Tollefsen, who passed away in 2022—into a studio. All of their work is inspired by the nature of Andøya. Beautiful bird drawings, paintings, photographs, sculptures, and textiles. I couldn’t resist Siri’s lovely bird drawings. I went home with a blue tit.
Marmelkroken—just like Martha Haugen Gard and Norheim Vingard on this route—is a member of Hanen. That means a verified, authentic standard of quality, rooted in the local community. You’re not just choosing a place to stay; you’re choosing a story.
At the end of April, we were in awe at Bleiksøya, the cone-shaped bird cliff near Bleik. We were in luck: thousands of puffins had just arrived and were swimming around the island. Father and son enthusiastically talk about the puffins, the birds of prey that hunt them on the bird cliff, and how they conduct their puffin safari tours with respect for the animals—always keeping a safe distance.
A puffin can carry more than 80 fish in its beak at once. In winter, the orange color on their lips fades, and they live solitary lives at sea. They return annually to the exact same spot to breed—monogamous and punctual. A puffin lays one egg and lives to be about 50 years old.
We drove further north and passed Andøya Space, Norway’s only permanent rocket launch site and one of the few in Europe capable of placing satellites into Earth orbit. Among other things, research on the northern lights is conducted here. The previous launch had failed, our local guide told us. Now they were waiting for the Earth to be in the right position for launch. That’s how casually they talk about space travel here.
On June 3, 2027, The Whale will open in Andenes: an architectural experience center dedicated to the biology and culture of whales, designed by Danish architect Dorte Mandrup. It features eight themed spaces. In one of them, you’re literally inside the whale and can feel its heartbeat. The roof can support 2,000 people and is an integral part of the experience. From a distance, I was able to catch a glimpse of the building, still under construction but already spectacular.
It wasn’t a random choice: you can spot whales year-round in the Andenes area. It’s a great combination with The Whale. I can’t wait.
| Best time to travel | April–June (spring) or September–October (fall) |
| Puffins | Late April–July on Bleiksøya near Bleik, Andøya |
| Whales | All year round at Andenes; peak season in winter and early spring |
| Airport | Andenes Airport (ANX) or Stokmarknes Airport (SKN) – Widerøe |
| Ferry | Fiskebøl-Melbu from the Lofoten Islands; tunnel also available |
| Public Transportation | reisnordland.no; daily buses from June through September |
| Hanen members on the road | Martha Haugen Gard · Norheim Vingard · Marmelkroken |
The Lofoten Islands are more dramatic and better known: jagged mountains, iconic photos, and busier in the summer. Vesteralen lies to the northeast and is quieter, with gentler mountains and a more expansive landscape. There’s less tourist traffic, year-round whale watching, and experiences that stay with you precisely because they aren’t geared toward mass tourism. Both are perfect for combining into a single road trip.
They arrive on Bleiksøya near Bleik (Andøya) in late April. They breed here through the summer and then return to the sea. They are monogamous, lay one egg per year, and return to the exact same nesting site every year. A puffin can live up to 50 years. Best viewing times: late April through July.
Yes. I saw it myself in April at Marmelkroken on Andøya, which is unusual for that time of year, but possible in such a dark location. The best months are September through early April. The owner, Lisbeth, let us know as soon as it started.
Hanen is the Norwegian network for rural tourism and local products, with about 620 member businesses. Core values: culture, sustainability, hospitality, and authenticity. Along this route, Martha Haugen Gard, Norheim Vingard, and Marmelkroken are all Hanen members. You don’t just choose a bed. You choose a story, a place, a person.
Marmelkroken is a small-scale lodging along the Norwegian Scenic Route on Andøya, featuring studios, an apartment, and a cabin—all with views of the sea, mountains, or meadows. The restaurant serves local specialties, breakfast is included, and owner Lisbeth will welcome you personally. Everything you need to know about your stay and booking: Marmelkroken on Andøya.
Met een passie voor reizen en fotografie én meer dan 30 jaar ervaring in de reisbranche, deel ik graag mijn bijzondere natuur-reistips. Reizen is heerlijk en belangrijk, je ontmoet nieuwe mensen en culturen en het opent je blik op de wereld.
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Laat je inspireren
Ben je op zoek naar de mooiste wandel- en fietsroutes? Of wil je informatie over reizen met de trein of advies voor de mooiste roadtrips door de natuur. Laat je inspireren voor je volgende reis in het groen; ideeën om je eigen reis te plannen of te kiezen voor een georganiseerde reis.
