Zurich by Train: Swimming, City Honey, and Green Hotspots

Early in the morning, I board the train in Amsterdam with a hot cup of coffee in my hand. Around three o’clock, I arrive in Zurich, feeling relaxed. Sustainable travel—comfortable and with beautiful views. It’s late June, and a heat wave will accompany me on my journey through this pocket-sized metropolis.

Zurich is a city where you can enjoy a cappuccino in the morning at a coffee shop that’s more expensive than your hotel breakfast, and in the afternoon, easily lose your way in alleys steeped in centuries of history, under the watchful eye of austere facades that know more than they let on.

At first, the city feels a bit tidy and pristine, until you realize that behind that Swiss reserve lies a vibrant city: with redeveloped industrial heritage, rivers that turn into promenades filled with people strolling around lunchtime, grapevines overlooking the city, and little bars where locals welcome you with reserved curiosity.

I check in at Motel One Zurich, within walking distance of Lake Zurich. It’s the perfect way to start my days with a refreshing dip in the clear water. Because of the heat, I decide to go for a quick swim as soon as I arrive, but first I stop by Äss-Bar for a sandwich.

Every day, Äss-Bar saves perfectly edible bread and pastries from the trash by picking up the previous day’s products from local bakeries and selling them at low prices. It’s been a huge success—they’ve already prevented many metric tons of food waste and now have more than a hundred employees.

Zurich Districts: Walking Through Compact Urban Neighborhoods

Zurich is neatly divided into twelve districts, known as Kreise, each with its own character and charm:

• At the heart of the city lies Kreis 1, the historic Altstadt, where narrow medieval streets, iconic churches, and shopping streets come together. It is Zurich’s oldest and most popular tourist district.
• To the west of that are creative and up-and-coming neighborhoods such as Kreis 4 and Kreis 5 (Zürich-West), known for their vibrant art scene, trendy bars, and nightlife.
• In the north, District 6 (Zürichberg) offers a peaceful, green setting near the university.
• To the south, District 2 (lakefront area) stretches all the way to the lake, featuring elegant residential neighborhoods and views of Lake Zurich.

Zurich is relatively compact and very well organized, which means you can easily explore the city from almost any neighborhood. Public transportation is fast and reliable, and many attractions are within walking or biking distance of one another.

Swimming spots in the heart of the city and beyond

On hot summer days, the whole city seems to head toward the water. The sun glistens on the surface of Lake Zurich, while the Limmat flows crystal-clear and invitingly through the heart of the city. It’s as if Zurich were designed specifically for swimming, and the locals eagerly take advantage of it. Everywhere you look, you see people in the water, as if it were the most natural thing in the world. Swimming, snorkeling, on a SUP, or just bobbing along with the current.

Take Badi Schanzengraben, for example, tucked away between the old city walls. During the day, it’s a quiet swimming spot exclusively for men, but as soon as night falls, it transforms into the lively Rimini bar (sometimes featuring live music), where everyone is welcome.

A little further on, on the shores of Lake Zurich, lie classic seaside resorts with views of the snow-capped peaks of the Alps. Women find refuge at the charming Frauenbad on Stadthausquai, a wooden pavilion steeped in history and character. I highly recommend it—it immediately feels like I’m at home relaxing by the pool with my friends.

You can also go for a swim in the Limmat River on the small, green island of Werdinsel. Families have picnics there, sunbathers lounge on the grass, and there’s even a small café. The atmosphere is relaxed and laid-back.

Latvian Rivers

But what really makes Zurich special isn’t just the abundance of swimming spots—it’s the experience of swimming itself. At the Oberer and Unterer Letten, popular spots along the river, swimmers take full advantage of the current. I, too, let myself drift along, my belongings stowed away in a brightly colored waterproof bag that bobs along with me like a floating companion. This week, I’ve drifted away like this several times, while the city glides past me.

Urban Beekeeping & Bee Experience at Wabe3

In Zurich, sustainability is a major focus. This is evident, among other things, at Stadtbienen, Anna Hochreutener’s bee shop, the beating heart of the Wabe3 initiative. This is no ordinary shop, but a workshop, knowledge center, and meeting place for anyone interested in the rhythm of bees and the city.

I attend a lecture by Anna, take a city tour of the rooftops where her bee colonies live, and make my own lip balm from beeswax. What I learn really sticks with me: just how important bees are for the pollination of wild plants and food crops. Without them, our ecosystem would literally collapse.

Anna also makes it clear that there is a big difference between honeybees, which are cared for by beekeepers and live in hives, and wild bees, which are often solitary and are finding fewer and fewer suitable nesting sites. For every species of wild bee, there is an ideal plant, but these are disappearing one by one from the landscape due to monoculture and urbanization.

The honeybee gets a lot of attention, but it’s actually the wild species that are the most vulnerable. In her shop, Anna discusses this clearly and concretely, with a love for the little things. She casually hands me a handwritten recipe for flammkuchen with fennel, feta, and, of course, honey.

The store itself is a carefully curated collection: varieties of honey from different neighborhoods, beeswax wraps, handmade candles, ceramics, and books. Everything has been chosen with care. You’re welcome to ask questions, smell the products, and taste them.

I buy a jar of honey from bees that live on the roof of the tram depot. It tastes spicy and slightly bitter—nothing like supermarket honey. This experience feels like an encounter that lingers. Zurich, with all its modern precision, reveals a different side of itself here: slow-paced, layered, and connected to nature, however modestly.

Did you know? Fascinating facts about bees

• A queen bee is fertilized only once in her life, during what is known as a nuptial flight?
• A healthy queen can lay up to 2,000 eggs a day during peak season? With each egg, she determines whether it will be fertilized (to produce a female
  (worker bee) or remains unfertilized (for a male drone).
• Can any larva be turned into a queen? If a fertilized larva less than three days old is fed exclusively royal jelly and placed in a special suspended queen cell, it will grow into a full-fledged queen.
• Can a queen and a worker bee come from exactly the same type of egg? The difference lies entirely in their diet and care. Nurture trumps nature!
• Did you know that there are as many as 615 species of wild bees living in Switzerland? From bumblebees to mason bees—a diverse group that is indispensable to nature. But beware: about half of these species are threatened by habitat loss and pesticides.
• Do bees make their own wax using special glands on their abdomens? Young worker bees secrete tiny flakes of beeswax, which they knead with their mouths to form a building material. They use this to build perfect hexagonal honeycombs.

Uetliberg: Panoramic views of Zurich and the Alps

For nature lovers visiting Zurich who also want to spend some time on a mountain, the Uetliberg is the perfect solution. Just a 20-minute train ride from Zurich Hauptbahnhof, the red S10 line—with a gradient of nearly 8% (the steepest regular railway line in Europe)—takes you to a completely different world. At the top, a short ten-minute climb awaits, after which you’ll suddenly find yourself face-to-face with an impressive view of Zurich, the lake, and—on a clear day—even the Swiss Alps. You can also enjoy a meal at Uto Kulm, a hotel restaurant at the summit, featuring a menu full of refined regional dishes.

When I get back to the city, I stop for a nightcap at the Badi Schanzengraben men’s bathhouse, which transforms into the cozy Rimini bar in the evening, with atmospheric lighting and seating areas by the babbling water.

SBB Werkstadt: Industrial Heritage & Social Design

The Altstetten neighborhood, near the SBB Werkstadt, shows that Zurich is not just a city of bankers. (SBB stands for Schweizerische Bundesbahnen.) In the tall industrial halls where locomotives used to be repaired, all kinds of sustainable initiatives are now flourishing.

I start at ViCAFÉ, part of a large coffee roastery and tasting room, where the aroma of freshly roasted beans greets you. It’s a spacious, open area where you can watch the beans being roasted. After an espresso, I’m given a tour of the old workshop: eight-meter-high halls with original cast-iron pillars, interspersed with modern workspaces and lounges where local creators showcase their projects. You can experience this too on the last Friday of every month during open tours. werkstadt-zuerich.ch

On my way, I pass by Qwstion, a manufacturer of bags made from the innovative Bananatex®—a sturdy, waterproof, and stylish fabric made from banana fibers. It fits seamlessly into the narrative of circular urban production. The material is now also being used in fashion and interior design. www.qwstion.com

The lobby also smells wonderful, thanks to the freshly made granola from Tiny Factory. Want to make your own granola? They offer workshops at tinyfactory.ch/pages/workshop. To cool off a bit, I walk over to Restaurant Nüni and enjoy a refreshing rhubarb spritzer under a parasol.

Weinweg Höngg: Tasting City Wine in Zurich

The city as a winegrower—it’s true! I discovered this during the Weinweg tour in the Höngg neighborhood, a surprising part of Zurich where vineyards, history, and urban nature come together. What started as a simple walk through the hills surrounding the city turned into a journey through centuries-old stories and flavors.

Accompanied by our guide Elizabeth Brem—cheerful and knowledgeable—I walk along steep vineyard terraces, narrow paths, and old passageways on the Chillesteig, once used by winegrowers. She explains how this area was once one of the largest wine-growing regions in the canton of Zurich. But in the early 20th century, disasters struck: phylloxera, downy mildew, and urbanization nearly put an end to local viticulture.

Fortunately, the Zweifel family kept the flame alive. Thanks to their efforts, the vineyard on the Chillesteig was replanted in 1969. What’s remarkable is that these vineyards are now owned by the city of Zurich and managed by Grün Stadt Zürich through the Juchhof municipal estate.

And then, of course, the best part: the tasting. At the end of the walk, I taste three wines at Bettina Lüber’s (whose Dutch mother leads to an unexpectedly fluent conversation): a crisp white, a smooth rosé, and a fruity red—all made from grapes grown right here, in the middle of the city. You almost forget that you’re still in Zurich, just a quarter of an hour from the city center.

Weinweg: Practical Information

• Starting point: Kirchplatz Höngg, tram 13, Kirche Höngg stop
• Duration: 1.5–3 hours
• Highlights: vineyards, views of Zurich and the Limmat River, sheep among the vines
• Tip: The Wümmetfest takes place in September, featuring open wine cellars and a festive atmosphere
• weinweghoengg.ch

District 6: Peace, Science, and Culture

In District 6, I discover yet another side of Zurich: peaceful, green, and academic thanks to the university. A ride on the charming Seilbahn Rigiblick cable car takes you to the wooded slopes of the Zürichberg, offering stunning views of the city along the way. In this neighborhood, you can also dive into the world of science and curiosities. The Moulagenmuseum, filled with hyper-realistic wax models of medical conditions, is both bizarre and fascinating—a spine-chilling journey through medical history. It’s a place where fascination and revulsion go hand in hand. www.moulagen.uzh.ch/de

Another highlight is focusTerra, ETH Zurich’s Earth & Science Discovery Center. Here, you’ll feel like an explorer: from the Earth’s red-hot core to the peaks of the Alps—and even out into space. Everything is explained in a way that’s easy to understand, without being superficial. You’re encouraged to touch, try things out, and ask questions, and sometimes you’ll find yourself face-to-face with researchers who passionately talk about their work. focusterra.ethz.ch

Löwenbräu Areal: From Brewery to Art Hub in Zürich-West

Tucked away among former warehouses and railroad tracks in Zürich-West lies the Löwenbräu Areal, a place where industrial history and contemporary art converge. In the 1980s, many companies moved out of this former industrial district. When the Löwenbräu brewery also closed its doors in 1986, the historic buildings were left standing empty.

Ten years later, institutions such as the Kunsthalle Zürich, the Migros Museum für Gegenwartskunst, and the Hauser & Wirth gallery seized the opportunity to establish themselves here. What began as a forward-thinking experiment grew into an internationally recognized center for contemporary art.

More than ten years ago, the complex underwent a thorough renovation and expansion. The industrial charm of the original building has been preserved, while space was created for a new generation of art lovers and creative professionals. Now you’ll find several exhibition spaces, a sleekly designed coffee bar with a metropolitan vibe, a museum shop, and a bistro with a vegetarian and vegan menu. During Zurich Art Week, leading up to Art Basel, the atmosphere here is international and vibrant. On hot summer days, it’s also wonderfully cool inside. www.lowenbraukunst.ch/de

The Haus Konstruktiv Museum is located in the east wing of the Löwenbräu Areal. I’m visiting the exhibition *We Are Here!*, which features works by pioneers of Concrete Art such as Max Bill and Camille Graeser, as well as contemporary artists. www.hauskonstruktiv.ch

After that, I walk along the river past the Unterer and Oberer Letten swimming spots, and take another dip before lunch at Chuchi am Wasser —a lovely spot on the banks of the Limmat, connected to the Dynamo cultural center. During the day, you can enjoy fresh daily specials (including vegan options) here, and in the evening, a relaxed atmosphere on the terrace, often accompanied by live music or cultural events. What makes Chuchi truly special is its social mission: providing learning and work opportunities for young people, using CO₂-neutral packaging, and combating food waste. www.dynamo.ch/restaurant-bar

A Sporty Finale: SUP and Sunset on Lake Zurich

To wrap up my week with some exercise but in style, I decide to escape the city for a bit and cool off at Lake Zurich. From downtown, I take tram 11 from the Beckenhof stop toward Zurich, Rehalp, to Bürkliplatz. There, I transfer to bus 161 toward Kilchberg, and after about 15 minutes, I get off at the Stadtgrenze stop. The entire trip takes about 30 minutes. From there, it’s just a few minutes’ walk to the water, near Camping Fischer’s Fritz, where you can rent a SUP (stand-up paddleboard) on the spot. www.fischers-fritz.ch/en

The lake glistens invitingly, and with the mountains in the background, it feels as if I’ve paddled right into a Swiss postcard. I float on the smooth water for hours, taking breaks to play a game of beach volleyball and table tennis on the shore.

At the end of the afternoon, I plop down on the sunny terrace at Fischer’s Fritz, where I enjoy a refreshing homemade lemonade and their famous house-smoked fish from the BBQ. As the sun slowly disappears behind the mountains and the sky turns orange and purple, I know: this is the perfect place to weather a summer heat wave.

Off the beaten path: creative hotspots, shops, bars, and restaurants

A few more tips

• At the Viaduct. Beneath a 500-meter-long historic railway viaduct in Kreis 5, you’ll find one of Zurich’s most creative spots: Im Viadukt. It’s home to boutiques offering fashion, design, delicacies, and culture. Its industrial charm and mix of local creators and sustainable concepts make this an ideal place to wander around. Viaduktstrasse 21–97
• Volkshaus Bookstore. The independent bookstore Volkshaus has been located in Kreis 4 since 1991, offering a socially critical selection of books: from fiction and philosophy to feminism and children’s books. A place where books inspire thought. Stauffacherstrasse 60
• Maxim Theater The Maxim Theater is a transcultural venue for social and artistic dialogue. Theater performances, dance, films, and lectures go hand in hand with community engagement here. Ernastrasse 20
• Rework. Upcycling at its best: at Rework, collections are made entirely from secondhand clothing. No new materials, no chemicals, no waste—but plenty of style. Lagerstrasse 10 & Zollstrasse 115
• Stadtbad Zürich Hammam & Spa. Inside the Volkshaus, you’ll find an oasis of tranquility: soft lighting, steamy warmth, and scents from the East. The Hammam & Spa offers relaxation for both body and mind. Stauffacherstrasse 60

Sustainable & Delicious Restaurants

• Parea (Wiedikon): modern Greek mezze in a relaxed atmosphere
• Roots: vegan and healthy, and you can work out there, too. Schanzengraben 19
• The Artisan: organic, circular, and local, with a community garden
• Neue Taverne: Here, vegetables take center stage. Glockengasse 8
• Da Pone: delicious pizza and a lovely terrace by the river (Wipkingen)
• Haus am Fluss: feet in the grass, curry or a poké bowl on the table, a view of the Limmat
• Fischerstube Zürihorn: an iconic lakeside restaurant serving fish, vegan dishes, and classics
• Bauernschänke: seasonal fine dining with a neighborhood vibe. Rindermarkt 24

Bars

• Rimini Bar: In the evening, the Badi Schanzengraben men’s pool transforms into a trendy bar open to everyone.
• Bar Le Philosophe: French-inspired, with cocktails and an idyllic courtyard. Nägelihof 3
• ORA Bar: a stylish bar with unique drinks, small plates, and DJ sets. Zähringerstrasse 38
• Kafi Paradiesli: a hidden gem with a fig tree, great coffee, and homemade lunch. Hofstrasse 19