For many Dutch people, the Northern Vosges is a blind spot. And that’s a shame! More than half of this region is covered in forests. There are countless biking and hiking trails, picturesque villages, canals, and lakes—and you can enjoy fantastic French cuisine with a German twist. In Pays de Bitche, Bitcherland (no, that’s not a lame joke), you’ll practically stumble—literally—over the castle ruins.
Plus, it’s nice and close. The Northern Vosges region near the German border is a beautiful nature park. It’s high time to explore the northeasternmost tip of France. I took a guided tour through the area, visiting all the most beautiful spots.
During our first climb to the ruins of Falkenstein Castle, I try to keep up with my experienced guide, Céline. “Are you okay?” she asks with a mischievous twinkle in her eyes. I focus on the forest trail leading upward and just nod to catch my breath. It’s still very early in the morning, and the forest has a fairy-tale-like atmosphere. The thick canopy of beech and oak trees along the path is a mix of bright red and yellow. The tree trunks seem much taller and thicker than the ones back home. We continue walking uphill at a steady pace, and then suddenly, through the thick patches of fog, the red-colored sandstone walls of Falkenstein Castle loom into view. Well, “castle”—the remains of what must once have been an immense fortress.
I love castles, and here in the northern Vosges, you can really indulge your passion. According to Céline, the dense forests in this part of France were full of dangers during the Middle Ages. The border region was of enormous strategic importance to the Dukes of Lorraine on one side and the Holy Roman (German) Empire on the other. In the12th century, impressive fortresses carved out of the rock began to spring up.
Falkenstein Castle dates back to 1125, making it one of the oldest fortresses in the region. You shouldn’t be afraid of heights here. A steep staircase and a narrow path lead us upward. In one of the rooms, fog swirls in. I marvel at the deep red color of the sandstone walls.
“The Vosges were formed between 135 million and 60 million years ago,” Céline explains. “The red sandstone rock formations you see everywhere here were brought to the surface by plate tectonics.” An impressive story. This morning, we’re the only visitors. At the very top, you’d normally have a fantastic view of the dense forests, but the sun just can’t quite break through the thick fog. I don’t think it’s a disaster, though, because those wisps of fog add to the mystical atmosphere. We fall silent for a moment to enjoy this magical place. You can’t hear a thing. No birdsong, nothing. Let alone cars.
As we begin our descent again, Céline explains that the Pays de Bitche is part of a cross-border UNESCO biosphere reserve. In the past, the French and Germans faced off here with weapons, but today they collaborate on research into the unique animal and plant species found here. Think of peregrine falcons nesting in the rocks, ravens, and many species of frogs. And as the icing on the cake, lynx now live here again as well—they were previously reintroduced on the German side. The animals are monitored by German and French researchers. By the way, the chances of spotting Europe’s largest feline are minimal, as they’re very shy and live deep in the forests.
Less than three kilometers from the ruins of Falkenstein, the landscape is completely different. Before lunch, we take a walk along Lake Hanau, which is part of the Rochers et tourbières du Pays de Bitche nature reserve. This marshland is known among biologists for its rare carnivorous plants, graceful white-faced dragonflies, bats, and owls.
To give nature some breathing room, some areas are closed to hikers. But fortunately, hiking trails have also been built. Lake Hanau lies there like a mirror. The trees, with their multicolored foliage, are reflected in the water. “Sssshhh,” Céline says suddenly as we walk along a wooden boardwalk by the water. Less than ten meters away, a little squirrel sits right next to the path. Its fluffy ears are perked up, and it’s wagging its thick tail. When it spots us, it leaps into a bush like a circus performer. We continue walking quietly. Céline explains that in the Middle Ages, many trees were cut down to build castles and houses. The lake was created by monks who needed fish for their meatless days.
You can see Waldeck Castle from a distance. It’s a typical rock castle. “The castle dates back to the13th century. Sometime around 1645, it was virtually destroyed during the Thirty Years’ War. Only one tower remains, because Waldeck was never rebuilt,” says Céline. Unfortunately, the castle is closed to visitors, but from the foot of the ruins, we still have a beautiful view of the remains of the rock castle and the surrounding area.
“We’ve certainly earned a hearty lunch, haven’t we?” says Céline as we walk back to the car. We have a bike ride planned for this afternoon, so we can afford to burn off a few calories. At a little restaurant just outside Bitche, we eat Spätzle, made according to a grandmother’s recipe—a thick pasta with a delicious cheese sauce. Just this once, I let myself be tempted by a glass of Pinot Noir from the Grand Est region at lunchtime. When in Rome, do as the Romans do.
Before I have a chance to get flushed, we leave the restaurant. Our steel e-bikes are already waiting outside. The sun is shining brightly as we cycle out of Bitche. It’s great that they have separate bike paths here—that way, you don’t have to deal with car traffic. We opt for a “green” route of about 30 kilometers toward Pirmasens, across the border into Germany. Forest trails alternate with valleys and tiny villages with German-French-sounding names like Hanviller, Bousseviller, and Waldhouse. In Bousseviller, we stop briefly at a small chapel dedicated to Saint Odilia. The walls of the chapel are a soft yellow, and a black sphere sits atop the church tower. The whole scene stands out beautifully against the landscape. Along the way, we only occasionally come across other cyclists. It’s wonderful to have the place all to ourselves at this time of year.
We’ll have to pedal hard on the way back because we want to visit the citadel of Bitche before it gets dark. The sun is already setting as we approach the town. You can’t miss the citadel—its long, sturdy walls tower high above the town. Now that’s a masterpiece of military architecture. We head underground, where scenes from the film *The Besieged Fortress* by director Gérard Mordillat are shown in the various rooms. This really gives you a good sense of what life must have been like for soldiers during the Franco-Prussian War of 1870.
It’s pitch dark by now as I drive along narrow forest roads toward my lodging. About an hour from Bitche, you can stay in a lodge, Treehouse, or Yurt among the deer, mouflons, and other wildlife at Parc Animalier Sainte Croix. What could be more fun than waking up in the morning to all those animal sounds? This first taste of the northern Vosges has left me wanting (much) more.
Met een passie voor reizen en fotografie én meer dan 30 jaar ervaring in de reisbranche, deel ik graag mijn bijzondere natuur-reistips. Reizen is heerlijk en belangrijk, je ontmoet nieuwe mensen en culturen en het opent je blik op de wereld.
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Ben je op zoek naar de mooiste wandel- en fietsroutes? Of wil je informatie over reizen met de trein of advies voor de mooiste roadtrips door de natuur. Laat je inspireren voor je volgende reis in het groen; ideeën om je eigen reis te plannen of te kiezen voor een georganiseerde reis.
