There are few ways to travel that feel both as nostalgic and as sustainable as the night train. When I boarded the European Sleeper in Amsterdam on a Monday evening, it felt as if I were slipping into a time capsule. No digital frills, no sleek designer seats—this is travel with nuts and bolts, set to the rhythm of clacking rails and squeaking bogies. The sleeper compartment was simple: five bunk beds, a shared sink, and a toilet in the hallway. Little curtains behind which the world slowly glides by. The two of us shared the compartment—more than enough space for ourselves and our backpacks.
Later that night, still half-asleep, I peeked through the curtain for a moment and saw the name “Hauptbahnhof Berlin” light up on a platform. It was a surreal moment—so close to a metropolis, and yet so far from my own sense of time. I quickly turned back over, listened to the soft groaning of the tracks, and fell back asleep.
In the morning, the train rolls into Děčín, a small Czech border town on the Elbe, about 90 minutes from Prague, but it feels like a different world. Here, there are no busy boulevards or crowds of tourists, just mountains, rock formations, and a slow-moving river. A town on the edge of the national park, with a historic center that hasn’t quite been restored to Instagram-perfect condition. And thank goodness for that.
After arriving, I walked with my backpack for 20 minutes to Hotel Česká Koruna, located on Děčín’s main square. A classic three-star hotel—no frills, but everything you need. A spacious room with a private bathroom, a comfortable bed, and a view of the city. Breakfast is a buffet, featuring fresh bread, eggs, yogurt, and—for those who dare—a Czech sausage.
From the hotel, you can walk right to the river or toward Děčín Castle, which towers high above the city. It’s a stately Baroque colossus, with a rooftop garden and views of the Elbe and the hills beyond. The path leading there—a sloping cobblestone street that goes straight to the castle—turns out to be under restoration.
My first active tour began in Jetřichovice, which you can reach by local bus that takes you right through the countryside to the starting point of the Look Outs hike. The bus departs right around the corner from the hotel. The beautiful 7-kilometer hiking trail winds past wooden staircases, rocky paths, and iconic lookout towers—such as Mariina skála, Vilemínina stěna, and Rudolfův kámen. Each offers a view that will naturally make you stop in your tracks.
The route winds through the protected landscape of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park, known for its imposing sandstone rock formations, pine forests, and unique biodiversity. Along the way, dry, rocky plateaus alternate with shady forests dominated by Scots pine and beech, among other species. In the open areas, mosses, lichens, and rare ferns thrive, characteristic of this varied microclimate. Birds of prey such as buzzards and sometimes even peregrine falcons are not uncommon here, and with a bit of luck, you might see them soaring above the valleys.
The trails are well-marked, but can be quite steep at times. Here and there are hand-painted signs that wouldn’t look out of place in a fairy tale book. Here, you’re literally walking through millions of years of geological history. And best of all: even in June, the trails are relatively quiet. No crowds, just hikers who greet each other warmly. You can also opt for longer hikes here, such as a 15-kilometer route. There’s even a long-distance trail that runs through the area, called Hřebenovka Českým Švýcarskem. It’s a 100-kilometer route right through the national park. There are several small bars near the bus stop and the start of the loop trail where you can grab a bite to eat and a drink.
The next morning, I set out from Camping Kemp Děčín, where the canoes are waiting for me on the banks of the Elbe. The wide river flows calmly here, perfect for exploring the area by canoe. Rock faces and forests pass by on both sides, and herons, cormorants, and sometimes even a kingfisher hover above the water. On the banks, you can see wild ducks and other waterfowl peacefully wading about—as long as you stay quiet too.
Halfway through, I decided to have an apple while out on the water. As we were bobbing along, not paying attention and with my dry bag open (mistake number one), we hit a buoy sideways—unexpectedly and treacherously. The canoe capsized, everything got wet, and we ended up in the water—that was quite a scare. We righted the canoe, which was now full of water, and swam with it to shore. After assessing the damage (everything was wet, but otherwise okay), we decided to just keep paddling. A little wet, but still enjoying the view.
Tip: Be sure to stay well away from the buoys—at least five meters. They may look harmless, but you’ll run into them faster than you think. And keep your dry bags closed, even when you’re eating a snack 😉
In Schmilka, just across the German border, I begin my return journey to Děčín on the bike that Active Point has provided for me. I follow the famous Elberadweg bike path, which runs right through a green gorge. The path winds closely along the river, hugging the rock faces, with occasional views that make you want to get off your bike for a moment.
The slopes of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains rise up on the opposite bank like silent sentinels, while the river—which I had crossed by canoe that very morning—meanders lazily between the banks. Along the way, you pass half-timbered villages, small gardens, and occasionally a bridge or a ferry. The asphalt is smooth, well-maintained, and almost flat—ideal for a leisurely ride where you’ll spend most of your time gazing around in awe. A route that lets you experience the landscape in a whole new way: varied, open, and always with the river as your faithful companion.
And then: ARRIGŌ restaurant. Truly one of the highlights of the trip. This modern restaurant has it all. A modern, cosmopolitan atmosphere with a menu that’s refined and culinary: local ingredients, original combinations, and prices that’ll make you smile. Everything is just right—the dishes, the atmosphere, the attentive staff—and all for the price of a lunch in Amsterdam.
My last day took me to Tisá, famous for its sandstone formations that resemble a city of petrified giants. The journey there is beautiful in itself: two buses winding their way up the mountain until the village of Tisá opens up like a gateway to another world. Across from the large parking lot is a lovely, modern little coffee shop with perfect coffee and delicious homemade pastries: Tyssa Café.
The hike through the famous Tisá rock walls is short but intense. You descend into crevices, climb over boulders, and at times it feels as if you’ve stepped into a movie set. Everything is massive, monumental, and yet quiet—aside from a few hikers, a stray school class, or a small group of rappellers.
And then: the downhill scooter tour all the way back to Děčín. Not an electric scooter, but a sturdy “kickbike” with thick tires. You roll back down at your own pace, past forests, mountain meadows, and open vistas (bookable through Active Point). But first, lunch at Turistická chata Tisá—a cozy chalet serving hearty fare.
After that, I took a short detour to the Děčínský Sněžník Lookout Tower, where you have to climb up with your scooter in hand, but the phenomenal view of the region makes it worth the effort. There’s also a small restaurant with a terrace at the top of the mountain, featuring a charming retro interior from the 1960s: Restaurace a Penzion Pod Rozhlednou. You can also ask for the key to access the tower here.
What really stuck with me was how well this region lends itself to active travel with a small environmental footprint. Here, you can hike, canoe, bike, and even ride a scooter—all while using public transportation and the overnight train as your base. It’s not a destination for those seeking comfort and convenience, but rather for those who enjoy putting in a little effort. Making your own bed on the train. Planning your own routes with an app like Mapy.cz. Peeking through a little curtain at 3:00 a.m. and realizing: I’m on the road somewhere.
And that sense of being on the move—that slow, tangible journey—is what made this trip so special. The European Sleeper brought us close to nature, without having to fly or drive for hours on end. Děčín may be only an hour and a half from Prague, but it feels like a place where time has stood still for a while.
On Friday morning, I arrived back at Amsterdam Central Station. Tired, dusty, content. My head was filled with rocks, forests, river bends, and views. And somewhere in my bag was a bit of sand, proof that I’d really been there.
In Děčín, you’ll meet people who don’t immediately throw their arms around you. The Czech character is generally reserved, down-to-earth, and discreet. No excessive small talk or scripted hospitality, but rather a quiet efficiency and a dry, often ironic sense of humor. At first, people may seem a bit reserved, but if you make the effort to break the ice, you’ll often be rewarded with warm, genuine attention.
That down-to-earth hospitality actually fit the trip perfectly: no frills, just space, tranquility, and people who, above all, remain true to themselves.
Activity Starting Points
Bicycle, scooter, and canoe rentals through Active Point Děčín. A great, helpful group of people.
Kemp Děčín (canoe launch site)
By the way, there’s also a campground here, by the river—it’s under a highway overpass, but it still looks pleasant.
Jetřichovice Lookouts (Hike)
Tisá (Rock Hike + Scooter Tour)
A street scene in Děčín.
The European Sleeper runs several times a week as a night train to Prague. The stop before Prague is Děčín. It departs from Amsterdam around 10:30 p.m. and arrives in Děčín at 10:00 a.m. the next morning.
Mapy.cz – a free and excellent navigation app for hiking, biking, and public transportation
IDOS.cz – Czech bus and train schedules: www.idos.cz
DUKPASS – local public transit tickets
More information about the Czech Republic: #VisitCzechia
Mieke Tacken
Ik ben interieurontwerper, fotograaf en een fervent liefhebber van wandelen in de natuur. Ik heb mijn hart verloren aan de eenvoud en schoonheid van wandelvakanties. Ik waardeer ik ook de unieke ervaring van een verblijf dat een verhaal vertelt over de lokale geschiedenis of cultuur. Ik deel hier mijn verhalen en tips, waar mogelijk met een lichte voetafdruk en altijd een hart vol verwondering.
Met een passie voor reizen en fotografie én meer dan 30 jaar ervaring in de reisbranche, deel ik graag mijn bijzondere natuur-reistips. Reizen is heerlijk en belangrijk, je ontmoet nieuwe mensen en culturen en het opent je blik op de wereld.
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