The region with the fairy-tale name Himmerland is located in northeastern Denmark and is an ideal destination if you’re looking for peace, space, and nature. Himmerland is characterized by its vast landscapes of rolling hills, where you can hike or bike for hours without encountering a soul. In this green region, with its tranquil fjords, dense forests, and farmland, you’ll find not only natural beauty but also a rich cultural history: traces of the Vikings can be discovered everywhere.
In September, I took the train from the Netherlands to Himmerland and explored this unique region by bike and on foot.
Himmerland is part of the Danish peninsula of Jutland. Although it is sometimes referred to as North Jutland, Himmerland has its own name and character. Situated between the Limfjord in the north and the Mariagerfjord in the south, the water is never far away here. Both fjords flow into the Kattegat, the strait between Jutland and Sweden. No matter which direction you head in Himmerland, you’ll almost always end up at one of the typical, narrow Danish beaches. See the map of Himmerland below.
The history of Himmerland goes back a long way. The area was already inhabited during the Bronze Age, and you can still see the remains of settlements and burial mounds from that period. Himmerland also played an important role during the Viking Age, as evidenced by the ring forts at Fyrkat and Aggersborg. It is believed that these forts were part of the defensive line of King Harald Bluetooth (after whom Bluetooth is named), who is known for his efforts to unify Denmark in the tenth century. The ring forts are UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
The Panorama Route is one of the most beautiful routes in Denmark. At every viewpoint along the way, you’ll be treated to a breathtaking view of the Mariager Fjord.
You can start the route from various points and park there as well. The Panorama Route is a loop of about 10 kilometers. You can find more information about the route here.
Explore Denmark’s largest nature reserve, where you can spot moose, otters, eagles, and wild boars from the many observation towers in the area.
Discover the historic rose town of Mariager with its colorful half-timbered houses, brightly painted front doors, and many rose gardens.
Visit the Hohøj burial mound on a walking tour that starts in the charming town of Mariager.
Stay at Vitskøl Kloster, one of the oldest monastery complexes in Northern Europe, which has existed since the mid-12th century.
Experience how the Vikings used to live and visit the Fyrkat ring fort, located on the outskirts of Hobro.
Take advantage of the Danish shelters—wooden cabins or shelters that can be found all over Denmark. Here, you can camp for free, often right in the middle of nature.
In Himmerland, countless hiking and biking trails ensure that you can always get out and about. Without exception, the trails are well-marked, and along the way you’ll find well-maintained public restrooms where you can also refill your water bottle. In Aalborg, you can rent a bike here.
During my trip, I used a rental car that I picked up in Hobro. The places I visited were relatively close to each other and could also have been reached with good cycling gear.
The first night, I stayed at Danhostel Hobro, a place designed for groups. Danhostel Hobro is a great spot for a pit stop after a long day on the train, and with its sports facilities, it’s a place where sports enthusiasts might even want to stay a little longer.
Restaurant Recommendations in Hobro: Restaurant Bies Bryghus and Cafe K.
The Panorama Trail is a 10-kilometer hiking trail on the outskirts of Hobro. The trail is a loop, and as you walk, you’ll enjoy views of the Mariager Fjord the whole way. On this trail, I came across a squirrel and could smell apples ripening on the trees everywhere I went.
Along the route, there are several places where you can turn off to visit the Bramlev Bakker restaurant. This is handy if you get hungry while hiking or feel like a cappuccino. In Hobro, you can also visit the Østerskoven forest, located near Mariager Fjord and Danhostel Hobro.
Distance: approx. 10 km, Elevation gain: 150, Duration: approx. 2.5 hours – Difficulty rating *****
At the end of the day, I headed toward Mariager and spent the night at Mariager Camping.
The Mariager Rundt Trail is a beautiful, relatively easy hike that starts at the harbor in the “town of roses,” Mariager. At the starting point, you can check out old train cars and have a cup of coffee at the Salt Center.
The route takes you past the Hohøj burial mound, through an ancient forest, along the shore of the Mariagerfjord, and through Mariager’s historic rose garden. Mariager is full of roses and colorful half-timbered houses with cheerfully painted doors. The colors and scents made me very happy as I walked.
The route is very well marked; you don’t need an app or a map.
Distance: approx. 12 km, Elevation gain: 100–150, Duration: approx. 3 hours. Difficulty rating *****
I stayed one more night at Mariager Camping, where I had a view of the Mariager Fjord. I was disappointed that my cabin was surrounded by tiles, which, fortunately, were much less common elsewhere on the campground. In addition to campsites, the campground also offers cabins and “fjordbellen,” a type of Glamping bubble tent.
Restaurant recommendations in Mariager: Café Salt (closes at 4 p.m.!) and Hotel Postgaarden.
The old railroad line between Aalborg and Hadsund, which was closed in 1969, lives on as Route 21, a paved bike path that stretches from Gistrup to Hadsund.
I only cycled part of the route because I started in Øster Hurup and because it started raining in the afternoon. But luckily, I’d already seen plenty of beautiful sights by then and had made a detour along the way to the impressive Visborggaard Castle, which is right off the route.
Route 21: Distance: approx. 50 km, Elevation gain: 100–150, Duration: approx. 3 hours. Difficulty level *****
I spent the night at Kattegat Strand Camping, which, as the name suggests, is located on the Kattegat. The campground offers spacious campsites and a small park with ostriches and deer. In the evening, I had the beach all to myself. I highly recommend this campground.
Restaurant Recommendations in Øster Hurup: Café Moules and Restaurant Vildmose.
One of Denmark’s most unique nature reserves is the vast Lille Vildmose marshland. The area features observation towers from which you can spot eagles, wild boars, moose, and deer. In the middle of the reserve, you can visit the Lille Vildmose Center to learn more about the flora and fauna. At the center, you can also get tips on the best places to drive to that day for wildlife viewing.
After a drive through Lille Vildmose, I spent the night at Vitskøl Kloster. It’s an impressive white monastery on the Limfjord where students from the hotel school live and tend the garden. I had breakfast in the cozy monks’ cellar, and from my spacious bedroom, I had a view of the fjord.
Restaurant recommendations: Larsens Sportsbar & Bistro and Kanalfogedens Køkkens in Løgstør.
On the Louns Peninsula, you can choose from four short hiking trails of about 5 km that can also be combined. I chose the yellow route, which took me along the shores and cliffs of the Limfjord and through the hills of Louns. Here is a map of the island and the hiking trails.
Unfortunately, it started to rain while I was in Louns; otherwise, I definitely would have explored the other routes further, because Louns was one of the most beautiful and serene places I visited during my trip.
Yellow route: Distance: approx. 5 km, Elevation gain: 60, Duration: approx. 1 hour. Difficulty rating *****
I spent the night at Farsø Fjord Camping. It’s a campground with several camping fields, cabins, a swimming pool, and a campground restaurant. From this campground, you look out over farmland and wake up to sparrows flocking outside your window.
Restaurant recommendation: Hvalpsund Færgekro
Route 12, the Limfjord Route, passes by Farsø Fjord Camping and, if you cycle the entire route, takes you around the Limfjord over a distance of 630 km. I started at the campground and followed the route to the Limfjord beach in the coastal town of Trend, where I had a picnic by the water.
On my way, I passed through Ertebølle, where hunters and gatherers lived during the Stone Age and where you can still see remnants of the Ertebølle culture today.
Modified Limfjord Route: Distance: approx. 30 km, Elevation gain: 30, Duration: approx. 1.5 hours. Difficulty rating *****
I spent the night at Farsø Fjord Camping again and, with my mind full of new impressions, began my return journey by train to the Netherlands from there.
The train ride to Himmerland is an adventure in itself. From Utrecht, I had to change trains in Duisburg, Hamburg, Kolding, and Aarhus. From the quaint college town of Aarhus, you can reach Hobro by train in under an hour.
The scheduled travel time was 11 hours, but due to delays and the resulting missed connections, it took me about 16 hours. Another downside of the delays was that I lost my seat reservation because of the missed connection. Fortunately, the trains weren’t very crowded.
Traveling by train is not only environmentally friendly, but also comfortable. The seats in both first and second class on the Danish train are spacious and very comfortable. What’s more, Danes are very polite, which makes for a more peaceful atmosphere in the compartment than you’re used to in the Netherlands. With a cup of tea from the dining car, I was able to fully enjoy the view.
During the Danish leg of the train journey, I was struck by the vast green plains and the typical Danish red-painted farmhouses. They immediately gave me a taste of what was to come on the rest of the trip.
Here you’ll find all of our train trips.
The best time to visit Himmerland is from May through mid-September. It can get a bit busier during the summer months. The weather can be unpredictable, just like here in the Netherlands. I had some beautiful, sunny days in early September, but they were interspersed with showers. Click here for the most reliable weather forecasts in Denmark.
Hello! I’m Rosa, a writer with a passion for the outdoors and Sustainable travel. My life revolves around collecting and sharing stories in which nature plays an important role. I travel across Europe on foot and by train, seeking the inspiration and peace that slow travel brings. On Nature Travel Lab, I share my experiences and tips, with a focus on the environment and the world around us.
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