Braunschweig: From Five Cities to the Fishing Ponds of Riddagshausen

On the way from the Harz , I stopped at Wöltingerode Abbey, a monastery that now doubles as a hotel and where you can enjoy an excellent cup of coffee before continuing on your way. It was a nice transition, because once I arrived, Braunschweig also turned out to be a city that reveals a different layer of history on every street corner.

Braunschweig at a Glance: The Oker River as a Green Belt

About 250,000 people live there, it has a university, and the Oker River still flows like a green belt around the city center. That greenery is the first thing you notice: a city that feels larger than its size would suggest, but where a few minutes’ walk brings you right back to the water and the trees. The city was bombed in 1944, which also wiped out a large part of the old town. At times, there’s a stark contrast between beautiful centuries-old buildings and modern, rapidly constructed new developments.

The city has a charming and cozy atmosphere. There are many outdoor cafes and a lively scene on and around the Oker.

Five Cities in One

What makes Braunschweig special is that the city once consisted of five independent settlements, each with its own government and its own rights. Altewiek was one of them, with its own town hall that still stands today as a reminder of that era. When you walk through the city center, you’re essentially walking through five former villages that were only later merged into a single city, which immediately explains why the atmosphere varies so much from neighborhood to neighborhood.

Cathedral and Burgplatz

The cathedral stands on Burgplatz; admission is free, and volunteers are on hand who clearly take great pleasure in explaining the city’s history. It’s a great first stop, precisely because it’s so accessible: no admission fee, no rush—just walk in and listen.

Kohlmarkt: A Church That Disappeared, a Cemetery That Remained

There used to be a church on Kohlmarkt. The church itself is gone, but the cemetery beneath it is still there, while above ground, the outdoor cafes now take center stage. A classic example of how this city doesn’t erase its history but simply builds right over it. Three times a day—at 12, 4, and 6 p.m.—the carillon plays here.

The Residenzschloss: Rebuilt Three Times

Few buildings in Braunschweig tell as much about the capriciousness of history as the Residenzschloss. The first palace went up in flames in 1830, set ablaze by outraged citizens who wanted to drive Duke Charles II out of the city.

The second palace was built between 1833 and 1841, was severely damaged during World War II, and was subsequently completely demolished in 1960, much to the anger of many.

It wasn’t until 2006 and 2007 that the facade was restored, with more than 600 original components rebuilt to full scale and reinstalled in their historic location. Inside, there is now a shopping center, along with a library, city archives, and a museum.

At the top stands the largest quadriga—a statue featuring four horses—in all of Europe. When the castle museum is open, you can go up to get a close-up view of the horses; it’s a sight well worth seeing.

Magniviertel and the Rizzi Haus

The Magniviertel is one of the city’s most charming neighborhoods, once literally an island within Braunschweig. This is also where you’ll find the Rizzi Haus, the colorful, whimsical building designed by artist James Rizzi, which stands in stark contrast to the rest of the historic city center—and is worth the detour for that very reason.

Riddagshausen Monastery: Nature Created by Monks

Take bus 413, which departs from City Hall, to reach Riddagshausen Abbey, now a Natura 2000 site. Cistercian monks settled here beginning in 1145 and built 28 fish ponds, 11 of which still remain today.

The neighboring village was granted to them by Henry the Lion in 1146. Fish is still sold here, directly from the fish farmers. The area is also known for its bats and is ideal for a leisurely bike ride.

Franciscan Monastery: Café Kreuzgang and the Beguinage

One of the most beautiful hidden spots I came across in Braunschweig. Café Kreuzgang, located in a Franciscan monastery, is open only during the season: starting May 12, Tuesday through Thursday from noon to 6 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 1 p.m. to 8 p.m., and Sunday from 2 p.m. to 6 p.m. It’s closed on Mondays, though there are occasionally events held outside those hours. The café is co-run by people with disabilities, which gives the place a warmth you don’t find everywhere. The beguinage itself is worth a visit, including the interior.

Art and History: Herzog Anton Ulrich Museum and Löwenwall

The Herzog Anton Ulrich Museum houses an impressive collection, including works by Rembrandt and Vermeer. Nearby is the Löwenwall, a green space in the city that’s a great place to relax between museum visits.

Dining and Lodging

I stayed at the Steigenberger Parkhotel, which has an excellent, central location. For dining, I recommend the Nah am Wasser restaurant on the Oker River, and here’s a tip if you have the time: breakfast on a boat on the Oker is a surprisingly peaceful way to start the day.

Practical Information

• In 1888, Braunschweig got the state’s first train station, which already had a connection to the Harz Mountains at that time.
• If you’d like to try some local dishes: asparagus, cabbage, and sausage are often on the menu here, depending on the season.
• Combine your visit to Braunschweig with a city trip to Goslar and the lesser-known Wolfenbüttel, both historic towns in the Harz Mountains.

Frequently Asked Questions About Braunschweig

Is Braunschweig a good stopover on a trip through the Harz Mountains?

Yes, the city is a convenient distance from the Harz Mountains and offers a nice mix of mountain scenery and urban history.

Can I get to the Riddagshausen Monastery by public transportation?

Yes, bus 413 from City Hall takes you directly to the monastery and the Natura 2000 area.

How much does it cost to visit the Braunschweig Cathedral?

Nothing—visiting the Dom is free, and volunteers are on hand to explain its history.