Goslar: A City That Spans Nine Centuries

It took the guide two hours to take us on a journey from the 11th century through the Middle Ages, the Prussian era, and the Renaissance, right through the heart of the same city center. Goslar was the starting point of my journey through the Harz, and in hindsight, a logical choice: nowhere else in the region is so much history packed so closely together as in this half-timbered town on the edge of the mountains.

This UNESCO World Heritage city, with its many historic buildings, has been and continues to be carefully restored in several areas. On the outskirts of the city, a major festival is underway—the Schützen- und Volksfest Goslar—which takes place annually for 10 days in early July. It offers a lovely contrast to the city’s centuries-old history.

A palace larger than the church

Goslar owes its status as an imperial city to Henry III, who had his imperial palace built here in the 11th century. The guide pointed out to us that at the time, the palace was larger and more imposing than the church next to it—something that was by no means a given back then. A clear statement: the emperor’s secular power took precedence over the church’s here.

The impressive Imperial Hall features 68 historic 19th-century murals depicting the history of the German Empire. A few steps down lead to St. Ulrich’s Chapel, where only the heart of Emperor Henry III (1056) is buried in a sarcophagus because of his special connection to the city.

The Huldigungssaal: Late Gothic Splendor Behind Glass

Hidden inside the town hall, right in the middle of the market square, is one of Germany’s best-preserved halls. The Huldigungssaal was decorated between 1505 and 1520, with its walls, ceiling, and even the window niches completely covered in panel paintings and rich wood carvings. Unfortunately, you’re no longer allowed inside these days; you can only look in through a glass wall. This is to protect the artwork following a thorough restoration. Some of the depictions date back to Roman times.

Carillon and a Red Reminder of Industry

On the square in front of City Hall, the carillon plays at nine, twelve, three, and six o’clock. We watched the six o’clock chime (though the clock actually read five o’clock). The red building on the other side of the square is an old guild hall built by merchants in the late 15th century. It is now a hotel undergoing renovation.

The statue of the little man “pooping ducats” on the side of the building had a double meaning; on the one hand, it symbolized the city’s wealth, and on the other, it served as a warning to pay your debts on time.

Murals with a political message

Inside the Kaiserpfalz itself are impressive 19th-century murals depicting the history of the German Empire. Under Emperor Wilhelm I, the interior was lavishly decorated with Romantic murals depicting the heroic deeds of the medieval Holy Roman Emperors, culminating in a painting in which Wilhelm I, Frederick III, and Bismarck had themselves depicted as the natural successors to those medieval emperors.

The paintings were created shortly after the Franco-Prussian War of 1870–1871, during a period when Prussia emphatically demonstrated its position of power in Europe, including through art.

In front of the Imperial Palace stands a statue made of a large piece of stone called the Erzbrocken. It is a large, broken piece of ore that symbolizes the importance of the mining industry to the city.

Traces of Industry: The Last Mill and the City’s Name

Of the thirty mills that once stood along the Gose, only one remains standing. One of them used to process tree bark into tanning agents for the leather industry—a detail that vividly illustrates how closely this town was intertwined with the nature around it. The name Goslar also refers to this: it presumably means something like “resting place on the Gose,” in an area that was once mostly marsh and forest before a town emerged here.

Five Churches and an Imperial Prize

Goslar still has five churches today, a fraction of what the city once boasted. Once a year, an imperial prize is also awarded here, a tradition that dates back to the time when the city was allowed to call itself Kaiserstadt.

A medieval almshouse, now best known for Christmas

Right next to the Kaiserpfalz stands a building that, at first glance, doesn’t stand out much, but has one of the city’s most remarkable histories. The Große Heilige Kreuz was founded in 1254 as a hospital and orphanage, and in addition to the sick and orphans, it also provided shelter to travelers and pilgrims. Today, the small rooms that once served as living quarters house arts and crafts workshops.

During the Advent season, the building becomes part of the city’s Christmas spirit, featuring its own musical program alongside the stalls on the market square. It’s a wonderful example of a building that was once intended for the poorest of the poor, and now plays a heartwarming role during one of the most festive times of the year.

From Border Town to Competitor: Goslar and the Fall of the Wall

Before the fall of the Wall, Goslar attracted many visitors, mainly because the city was located so close to what was then the border with East Germany. After 1989, that changed: cities that had been inaccessible for decades, such as Quedlinburg and Wernigerode, suddenly became accessible again and took over a portion of that tourism.

Rammelsberg: The Mines Beneath the City

From Goslar, I visited the Rammelsberg mines, which, along with the Old Town, are part of the UNESCO World Heritage List. The underground tour was one of the most impressive parts of the entire trip: narrow passages, old mining technology, and a tangible sense of just how much work was done here over the centuries. If you visit Goslar, you shouldn’t miss this.

Accommodations and Dining

I stayed at the Romantik Hotel Alte Münze, right in the heart of the city, with an authentic atmosphere that fits in well with the rest of Goslar. I had dinner at Brauhaus Goslar—to be honest, it’s a bit touristy, but perfect for a first night in town. For a delicious Kaffee und Kuchen, head to the historic café on the market square.

Frequently Asked Questions About Goslar

Is Goslar a UNESCO World Heritage Site?

Yes, Goslar’s historic city center has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1992, along with the Kaiserpfalz, the Oberharzer Wasserwirtschaft (the world’s largest historic water management system used for mining), and the Rammelsberg mines.

How much time should I set aside for a visit to Goslar?

Plan on spending at least half a day in the city center, and a full day if you also want to visit the Rammelsberg Mines.

Is Goslar a good base for exploring the Harz Mountains?

Absolutely. The town is located on the edge of the mountains and is well connected to other destinations in the Harz region, including Braunlage and Torfhaus.