Casa da Cisterna: A Comfortable Stay in Authentic Castelo Rodrigo

You can definitely call this a hidden gem. Casa da Cisterna is a comfortable and charming hotel in an authentic village surrounded by castle ruins. We’re located here in eastern Central Portugal. The hotel consists of several authentic houses with a shared pool.

Casa da Cisterna (cisterna literally means “cistern”) used to be the water storage facility for the entire village. Now it has been transformed into an idyllic boutique hotel with several rooms, suites, and two villas. The old cistern itself has been turned into a swimming pool: you’ll be swimming in a piece of the village’s history, with views across the highlands toward Spain.

Casa da Cisterna at a Glance

Casa da Cisterna is a small-scale boutique hotel owned by biologists Ana Berliner and António Monteiro in Castelo Rodrigo, one of the twelve Aldeias Históricas de Portugal (municipality of Figueira de Castelo Rodrigo, district of Guarda). The hotel features six rooms, three suites, and two villas in restored houses within the medieval walls. It is located between the Parque Natural do Douro Internacional, the Faia Brava Nature Reserve, and the prehistoric rock art of the Côa Valley (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), about a 2.5-hour drive from Porto and a 1.5-hour drive from Salamanca.

Hospitality Comes First at Casa da Cisterna

Ana and António left Lisbon for this beautiful, off-the-beaten-path spot in historic Castelo Rodrigo. Both biologists, they chose the tranquility of rural life in a historic setting over the hustle and bustle of the city. They have created a wonderful, homey hotel in an authentic setting.

Ana and her team go out of their way to make sure you have a great time and get to know the beautiful surroundings. A fantastic (local) breakfast is served, and for a delicious dinner, there’s a regional menu every day with plenty of choices.

There are no set times for breakfast. The table is set with homemade jam, honey, and local cheese, requeijão, smoked ham, and fresh orange juice from Barca d’Alva. You’ll need to make reservations in advance for lunch and dinner, and you’ll choose from the daily menu, which features dishes such as oven-baked rice with duck, bacalhau à Gomes de Sá, and almond cake. The staff are all locals.

Check out YouTube for an interview I did with Ana from Casa da Cisterna.

Castelo Rodrigo and the surrounding area

This surprising and lesser-known region is about a 1.5-hour drive from Salamanca, Spain, and 2.5 hours from Coimbra in Central Portugal. You’re in the eastern part of Central Portugal, not far from the Spanish border. This was once a strategic site for battles and a stop along the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela. Today, it’s a very peaceful spot with beautiful nature and a rich history.

Only a handful of people live within the walls during the winter; daily life takes place in Figueira de Castelo Rodrigo, a few kilometers away. At the top of the village stand the ruins of Cristóvão de Moura’s palace, which the residents set on fire in 1640 because he had sided with the Spanish crown. At the foot of the hill lies the Cistercian monastery of Santa Maria de Aguiar.

Enjoy the peace and quiet of this quaint little village. Relax by the pool with its stunning views and explore the historic town. Ana and Antonio will be happy to tell you about the local attractions, and they offer guided tours of the area upon request.

Castelo Rodrigo is part of the Aldeias Históricas de Portugal, a group of 12 authentic historic villages that are historically linked and form the basis for a wonderful exploration tour in this lesser-known part of Portugal. If you set out on this journey, be sure to bring along the famous picnic basket for a delicious meal along the way.

Visit the Coa Valley, with its impressive prehistoric rock art; the Douro River, with its stunning nature park; and Almeida, one of Portugal’s twelve historic villages.

Hiking and Biking in the Douro Internacional Nature Park

The area is beautiful for walking, hiking, or biking. It’s located on the edge of the Douro Internacional Nature Park. The GR22 trail winds through historic villages and stunning natural scenery. This long-distance hike covers a total of nearly 600 kilometers, but can, of course, be broken down into shorter sections. Read more here about an organized hiking trip to this area.

The Parque Natural do Douro Internacional covers more than 85,000 hectares along the deep gorges of the Douro and Águeda rivers, which form the border with Spain here. On the Spanish side, the landscape continues as the Parque Natural de Arribes del Duero. Ana and António recommend the Arribes do Águeda near Almofala, a boat trip on the Douro from Barca d’Alva, the Ribeira do Mosteiro, and the Penedo Durão viewpoint. If you prefer cycling, you can rent bikes at the hotel.

Birdwatching at Casa Cisterna

It’s also a wonderful place for birdwatchers. Faia Brava is a beautiful protected nature reserve located about 20 kilometers from the village. Many bird species, such as the griffon vulture, as well as beautiful plants and flowers, are preserved here. Since late 2024, there has been a vulture observation hut at Casa da Cisterna. Visiting this area and its impressive birds is a unique experience.

Jeep Tours and the Picnic Basket

Prefer to go further afield? Then hop in the jeep for a tour through the highlands, with a biologist as your guide. For each outing, order the Cisterna picnic basket a day in advance.

Rooms, suites, and villas: luxury and comfort in an authentic setting

The authentic rooms and suites are all unique and tastefully decorated. The luxury villas can be rented upon request for four to six people.

• Rooms: Pisco, Rabirruivo, Andorinhão, Amieiro, Freixo, and Olmo. Cozy double rooms with private bathrooms, air conditioning or central heating, and Wi-Fi; Andorinhão has a wood-burning stove and a private terrace.
• Suites: Britango (55 m², with a separate living room), Noitibó (loft suite with a mezzanine and a wood-burning stove), and Sobreiro (Hästens bed, starry sky ceiling, wood-burning stove, and a reading nook with a view).
• Villa Mikwéh: two or three bedrooms for four to six people, with a living room, fireplace, and fully equipped kitchen.
• Villa da Igreja: the newest villa (200 m²), featuring three bedrooms, two living rooms, and panoramic terraces, accommodating up to six people.

A Sustainable Stay in a Historic Village

Casa da Cisterna follows its own responsible tourism policy and provides guests with a manifesto for the responsible traveler. The hotel is Biosphere-certified, uses local products and employs local staff, and contributes to the conservation of the Miranda donkey. By restoring old village houses instead of building new ones, Castelo Rodrigo remains inhabited and vibrant.

Why Casa da Cisterna

• A boutique hotel within the medieval walls of Castelo Rodrigo, one of the 12 Aldeias Históricas
• Swimming pool in the old village cistern with a view toward Spain
• Personal hospitality from biologists Ana and António
• Nighttime guided tour of the Côa Rock Art (UNESCO) with Ana as the official guide
• Vulture observation hut and Faia Brava, about 20 km away
• Hiking, Biking, and Birdwatching in the Parque Natural do Douro Internacional
• 6 rooms, 3 suites, and 2 villas for 4 to 6 people

Practical Information

• Address: Largo da Igreja / Rua da Cadeia 7, 6440-031 Castelo Rodrigo, Portugal
• Accommodations: 6 rooms, 3 suites, and 2 villas
• Owners: Ana Berliner and António Monteiro
• Meals: breakfast included; lunch, dinner, and picnics by reservation
• By car: about 2.5 hours from Porto, 1.5 hours from Salamanca, 2.5 hours from Coimbra, just over 4 hours from Lisbon; free public parking
• Flights: Porto, Lisbon, or Madrid
• Train: difficult; the nearest stations are on the Linha da Beira Alta (including Guarda), followed by a rental car or taxi
• Best time to visit: spring and fall; almond blossoms in February and March
• Booking: direct with the owner using the request form on this page

Frequently Asked Questions About Casa da Cisterna

Where is Casa da Cisterna located?

Casa da Cisterna is located within the medieval walls of Castelo Rodrigo, one of the twelve Aldeias Históricas de Portugal, in the municipality of Figueira de Castelo Rodrigo (Guarda district). You’re in eastern Central Portugal, close to the Spanish border: about a 2.5-hour drive from Porto, 1.5 hours from Salamanca, and 2.5 hours from Coimbra.

Is Casa da Cisterna a good base for hiking and biking?

Yes. The hotel is located on the edge of the Parque Natural do Douro Internacional and along the GR22, the long-distance trail that winds through historic villages. Ana and António offer hiking tips, organize guided tours upon request, and you can rent bicycles.

Can you spot vultures at Casa da Cisterna?

Yes. There is a vulture observation hut near the hotel, and the Faia Brava nature reserve is about 20 kilometers away. There, you can see griffon vultures, Egyptian vultures, booted eagles, and black storks, among other species.

Can you have breakfast and dinner at Casa da Cisterna?

Breakfast is included and has no set times. You must make reservations in advance for lunch and dinner; a regional menu is available daily. You can order a picnic basket to take with you.

When is the best time to visit Castelo Rodrigo?

Spring (March through June) is ideal for hiking, blooming fields, and birdwatching. In February and March, the almond trees around Figueira de Castelo Rodrigo are in bloom. In the fall, the weather is mild and perfect for hiking, and it’s harvest time in the Douro. July and August are hot, so the pool comes in handy.

Is Casa da Cisterna suitable for families and small groups?

Yes. There are spacious suites with room for children, cribs available upon request, and two villas for four to six people, each with its own kitchen and living room.