Sustainable travel in the literal sense of the word is, of course, traveling by train. Not only is it good for the environment, but it’s also relaxing. As the landscape rushes by, you can read a book, doze off, and ponder life a bit. Mariëlle van Bussel took the European Sleeper to Prague.
Around a quarter to eleven in the evening, the European Sleeper pulls into an almost deserted Utrecht Central Station. The platform immediately comes alive. Everyone has to quickly find the right car and the right couchette. I found my spot right away: a five-person sleeper compartment all to myself. What a luxury. I hadn’t even put my backpack down yet when we set off for Berlin, the first stop on the way to our final destination, Prague.
While a party gets underway a few couchettes down the aisle, I take the sleeping bag, blanket, and pillow from the top bunk and settle in on the bottom bunk. I leave the curtains open for a while so I can watch the night pass by. In the darkness, the light from a station appears now and then. A full moon hangs in the sky. For me, sleeping on the train means drifting off and waking up again, over and over. The screeching brakes, the train pulling away, the rays of light streaming through the cracks in the curtains—I take it all in. But that doesn’t spoil the fun. There’s something special about sleeping on a moving train.
The next morning, I wake up around 7:30. It soon becomes clear that we’ve fallen 2.5 hours behind schedule overnight. I don’t mind. Now, in the light of day, I enjoy a book, breakfast, and the scenery that begins to change as we pass Berlin and, later, Dresden. Small, old villages along a river, with the mountains in the background. After fifteen hours, we finally drive into Prague.
The contrast couldn’t be greater. As I walk out of the station, the hustle and bustle greets me. The short walk to the old town makes a lot of things clear. Tourists everywhere—large groups, small groups, and the occasional lone traveler. Everyone seems to be visiting the same places: the classic hotspots, such as the famous Charles Bridge over the Vltava River, the Jewish Quarter, and the castle towering over the city on the other side of the river.
It’s nice to soak up the atmosphere in the old, bustling city center for a moment. I feel like I’m in an open-air museum. It’s no wonder, then, that the historic center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Beautiful buildings, often with soft yellow facades, adorned with countless ornaments. Baroque churches, the oldest Jewish synagogue in Europe that’s still in use, and large squares glistening in the autumn sun. It’s simply endless.
But as impressive as the Old Town is, Prague is more than just that. I’m going to look for places that are quieter and greener. Although it must be said that even the historic center is already quite green, with plenty of small parks scattered here and there. Strangely enough, one of these quiet spots is less than fifty meters from Charles Bridge: Kampa. You cross the river via Charles Bridge, walk down the left side toward the river, and suddenly the crowds have disappeared. An oasis of tranquility.
Kampa consists of a quiet, French-style square with a few restaurants and plenty of greenery, which flows into a park with large trees, lawns, and the occasional work of art. That’s not surprising, since the Kampa Museum is located further on in the park.
Here, 34 penguins—which are illuminated at night—stand in a row, looking out at the visitors on the museum terrace. They were created from recycled plastic by the Cracking Art Group and convey the message that a social animal like the penguin is threatened by climate change and technological progress. On Kampa, you can also see three crawling bronze babies by David Černý.
There are a few nice little cafés tucked away in hidden corners, including along the river. It’s even quieter on the little islands scattered throughout the river here. Amid the ducks, you have a fantastic view of Charles Bridge. On one of the islands—accessible via a bridge that crosses over it—you’ll also find a café.
Prague is known as one of the greenest capitals in Europe. You can see that right away. If you stand on Charles Bridge and look to your left, you’ll see the popular Petřín Hill. It’s a huge park that you can reach by funicular or, of course, by walking along winding paths. Most tourists visiting Prague Castle, which is right next to Petřín Hill, stop here to take a short break.
But if you walk in the other direction, along the river, you’ll pass through the bustling alleys of the popular Malá Strana neighborhood. You’ll then find yourself in another park: Letná Park. From here, you’ll have a spectacular view of the city and the Vltava River with its many bridges.
No groups of tourists here, just locals out for a jog or a walk, with their dogs or children. An interesting detail: the metronome located here stands on the spot where a statue of Stalin once stood. That statue was erected in 1955, when the Soviet Union occupied Czechoslovakia. Seven years later, by which time Stalin was already considered a murderer, it was blown up.
For me, Letná Park is a stopover on the way to Stromovka Park. To get there, you walk through a small stretch of built-up area. Depending on which way you walk, you’ll see ordinary Praguers living in concrete apartment buildings, or you’ll pass through a leafy embassy district with large, luxurious villas.
Stromovka Park, which originated as a wildlife reserve in the 13th century, is Prague’s largest park. Here, you’ll find yourself among the locals; there are hardly any tourists. You can spend hours walking, biking, or reading a book on a bench—just like moms and dads with strollers, older couples, or fit joggers.
The park is a delight thanks to its many water features, immense weeping willows, and winding paths. With a takeout coffee—which you can pick up at a kiosk—it’s a great place to relax. On the edge of the park stands one of the largest planetariums in the world, but as of this writing, it is closed.
Before I get back on the train, I take a detour to the old industrial district of Holeŝovice. At first glance, it looks like a boring, concrete Eastern Bloc neighborhood, but appearances can be deceiving. If you look around carefully, you’ll see that this place is bustling. Industrial buildings, in particular, have been repurposed as concept stores, trendy cafés, or galleries. That’s how I end up at Vnitroblock, a concept store, plant shop, and café all in one, where I enjoy a nice latte with a slice of delicious pecan pie.
The most unique spot in Holeŝovice is the Market Halls. Where the slaughterhouse or livestock market used to be, you’ll now find shops of all shapes and sizes. What can you find there? Everything from Asian food to surfboards, from trendy bike brands to secondhand clothing. You’ll also find restaurants and coffee shops here, as well as a cultural center and the Rock Opera. Holešovice is just a short walk from Stromovka Park. You can also reach the neighborhood from downtown by tram (lines 12, 17, and 24).
The trip back to the Netherlands begins with a delay of nearly two hours. This time, there’s a dining car on board, since we’re leaving early in the evening. Here, I enjoy a two-course dinner that I reserved in advance.
The night train to Prague consists of a motley collection of cars. That’s also how European Sleeper got its start. With a limited budget, the company bought up old train cars from all over to realize its vision of Sustainable travel.
So I’ll just have to accept that we’re dealing with an old interior that also looks a bit dingy. Just like the moment when I’m handed my breakfast box early the next morning: right as we pull into Utrecht Central Station. I give the breakfast to my neighbor, who’s continuing on to Brussels, and hurry off the train myself before it pulls away again.
The European Sleeper runs to Prague three times a week. It departs from several stations in the Netherlands and travels via Berlin and Dresden. From Amsterdam, you’ll depart around 10:30 p.m. and arrive in Prague around 11:00 a.m. You can choose between a seat, a berth in a 5- or 6-person couchette, or a bed in a 3-person couchette. The return trip also runs three times a week.
The European Sleeper also runs to Innsbruck and Bolzano, Italy, via Cologne and Munich. Book tickets for the night train.
Cycling in the old town is difficult because of the crowds and the cobblestones. But if you go a little further out, cycling is actually the ideal way to visit attractions farther away, such as Pruhonice Castle in the south of the city or the Divoka Sarka nature reserve. Bike paths and bike routes are clearly marked with yellow signs.
There are also organizations that offer bike tours, such as Baja Bikes, with Dutch-speaking guides. www.bajabikes.eu
Hi, I'm Mariëlle, and have been able to turn my passions - writing and travel - into my work. I love adventure and nature. I like to camp with my camper van somewhere in a forest, take long walks in nature, walk caminos in Spain or train with my son through the Balkans. There is so much beauty to do, see and discover in nature, and so many beautiful people to meet, that I would like to share those experiences on Nature Travel Lab.
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