Madeira is the ideal destination for your hiking vacation all year round. What’s more, it offers challenges for both beginner hikers and experienced hikers. Madeira has no fewer than 27 PR hiking trails. These are the official hiking trails recommended by the local government. Each trail showcases the island’s diverse beauty, offering a unique experience for hikers.
At the end of January, my sister and I walked all the way around the island in 8 days. It was a fantastic and varied trip. Read about our experiences and tips here.
It’s a half-hour bus ride from Funchal Airport to Porto da Cruz. We’ve already done a bit of walking today, although we won’t really get started until tomorrow. Porto da Cruz is a small village compared to the capital, Funchal. There are a few restaurants right by the sea where you can enjoy a bite to eat and a drink while the wind and waves put on a beautiful show.
Overnight stay in Porto da Cruz
15 kilometers | approx. 5 hours | 550 meters of elevation gain and loss
We were picked up by the shuttle bus at 9 a.m. this morning. Within 15 minutes, we were at the starting point of our first hike. The day began with lovely sunshine and, fortunately, little wind. Our stamina was immediately put to the test by a steep climb. We quickly took off our jackets, and once at the top, we could even unzip the legs of our convertible pants. We took a moment to catch our breath and savor the phenomenal view of Machico and the ocean.
Truly a magnificent hiking trail along the northeast coast. The Boca do Risco offers a very varied route along cliffs and through forests and rainforest, with the landscape changing several times. A surprise around every corner. What views! We took our time and got back to the hotel around 3 p.m. We had a quick coffee on a patio, took a shower, grabbed a bite to eat, and slept very well.
Overnight stay in Porto da Cruz
Hiking in Madeira is more than just a physical challenge; it’s also an opportunity to discover the local flora and fauna and take in the stunning views.
10 kilometers | approx. 3 hours | 350 meters of elevation gain and loss
The Levada do Rei hike on Day 3 is one of the highlights of hiking in Madeira, with waterfalls and tropical vegetation. This route—the Levada do Rei hike—was supposed to be only 10 km, but it turned out to be about 14 km. That’s fine—we enjoyed it again! This morning we first stopped at the traditional cottages in Santana—really nice to see. Santana has been a UNESCO biosphere reserve since 2011. The triangular houses with thatched roofs are part of the area’s historical heritage. Then we set out on the hike. It was completely different from yesterday. The vegetation was predominantly tropical, with bamboo and banana trees. That, combined with charming little streams and the impressive waterfalls of Ribeira Bonito.
One moment you feel like you’re in an ancient, mystical forest, and the next you’re in the rainforest. The trail also passes a waterfall twice, and you have to walk underneath it—staying dry isn’t an option. Luckily, the temperature is lovely, so you’ll be dry again in no time. Around 3:00 p.m., we arrived at our hotel in the northwest of the island.
Overnight stay in São Vicente
11 kilometers | approx. 4 hours | 150 meters of ascent, 350 meters of descent
We’re looking forward to the Paul da Serra hike, which will show us more of the diversity of the landscape as we hike through Madeira. Today, once again, a completely different world! A challenging hike, and an optional detour is available: after descending 1,000 steps, you’re treated to a crystal-clear forest bath with 25 waterfalls. We only did part of it because it took a lot of extra time. We picked up the regular route again, with plenty of ups and downs. A stunning route, though there was a lot of fog and light rain, which meant the views weren’t as far-reaching in some places.
But the fog also adds a touch of mystery. The weather is very changeable. One minute the sky is bright blue, and the next, suddenly, there’s fog and rain. It changes by the minute. And from no wind at all to very strong winds. Sometimes we ride through a fairytale-like forest with massive boulders and moss-covered trees. Then again, deep valleys and open meadows. Here it resembles the Scottish Highlands; there, Costa Rica. And then southern England. It’s truly beautifully varied.
We arrived in Porto Moniz around 3:00 p.m. It’s a charming coastal town with beautiful volcanic pools. They’re right on the ocean. It’s very windy, and the waves crash spectacularly against the lava rocks. The villages are starting to come alive a bit.
Overnight stay in Porto Moniz
17 kilometers | approx. 5 hours | 50 meters of ascent and 650 meters of descent
Day 5 takes us on an easy route along a levada, offering the perfect opportunity for a leisurely hike on Madeira. Today, we cover more kilometers and take more steps than on any other day. We hike mainly through the laurel forest. The scent is indescribable. Streams, waterfalls, and a few obstacles here and there. Most of the route is flat. We ended up walking 20.5 km and, after stopping for a cappuccino along the way, arrived at the hotel in Calheta.
You can tell right away that you’re in the south of the island—it’s much less windy and a lot warmer. It really feels like the height of summer here. The seawater is still really cold, though. Calheta is a charming little town with cozy restaurants. We had a delicious meal on the boardwalk.
Overnight stay in Arco da Calheta
15 kilometers | approx. 5 hours | 250 meters of ascent and 150 meters of descent
Today we’re enjoying the Levada da Norte hike, where the island’s beauty is clearly visible as we walk through Madeira. Another long hike. Our driver, Miguel, was right on time at 9 a.m. at our hotel to drive us to the starting point. A beautiful hike with even more views than yesterday. There were a striking number of beautiful flowers along the trail.
Along the way, we came to a stunning viewpoint (Cabo Girao) with a glass floor. It’s one of the highest cliffs on the island. And it was high. The route continues to a small village by the sea. A surprisingly charming fishing village with beautiful colorful boats—Camara de Lobos. The drive there was also really nice. From there, we took the bus on to Funchal. Walking was also an option, but we’d had enough for the day.
In the evening, I took a quick walk into Funchal to grab a bite to eat. I took a quick photo by the statue of Ronaldo. He grew up in Funchal and even has his own museum.
Overnight stay in Funchal
8 kilometers | approx. 3 hours | 100 meters of ascent and 550 meters of descent
The Monte Botanical Gardens are a wonderful way to end our last day of hiking on Madeira, with an abundance of colorful plants. We took it a bit easier this morning—no driver to pick us up. After a delicious breakfast, we walked to the boarding area for the cable car that goes up the mountain. It was very crowded, though…At the top, you have a stunning view of Funchal and the enormous tropical garden. Afterward, the plan was to go down on the traditional toboggan (basket carts), but it was very crowded again. The huge line made us decide to just walk back down instead. In the city center, we visited the local market hall, which had plenty of fresh fruit and souvenirs. After a relaxing afternoon, we’ll be heading back to the Netherlands tomorrow.
Overnight stay in Funchal
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