When winter casts its gray veil over Europe, you can head to a place where the sun shines and nature blooms all year round: Madeira. Thanks to its rugged volcanic mountain landscape, fertile green valleys, and pleasant, humid climate, it’s often called the “Hawaii of Europe.” I took this wonderful trek from eastern to western Madeira in six stunning hikes.
I booked this trip with a reputable Dutch hiking tour specialist. You can book the same 8-day trip (7 nights) with this specialist. Go to “Request a quote.”
This adventurous, non-stop trek takes in almost everything this fascinating island has to offer. Over the course of six hikes and a few taxi rides, you can hike across the island from east to west.
The hikes described are suitable for experienced hikers. I completed the route while staying at three different hotels and using a luggage transport service from hotel to hotel. I’ve also included some practical tips for your trip.
The trek begins on the eastern side of the island, where the high cliffs of Boca do Risco, with their breathtaking views, immediately set the tone for this challenging 6-day trek. The challenge is particularly noticeable around Boca das Torrinhas, where you’ll pick up the spectacular PR1 trail.
This trail winds across the central ridge of Madeira, flanked by sheer cliffs and deep gorges of Pico do Arieiro (1,818 m) and Pico Ruivo (1,862 m). At the Boca das Torrinhas mountain pass, you’ll be rewarded with a panoramic view of the Atlantic Ocean on both sides of the trail.
As you continue, you’ll reach the sunnier southwestern side of the island, where you’ll be treated to a spectacular panoramic view from Pico da Urze. The hike eventually takes you to Calheta, where the sunset over the Atlantic Ocean provides the perfect ending to this magnificent hike.
At 1,862 meters, Pico Ruivo is the highest point on Madeira. From the summit—which can only be reached on foot—you’ll enjoy an impressive 360-degree view, provided it isn’t shrouded in mist.
This unique volcanic mountain landscape is responsible for the various microclimates on Madeira, which can cause the weather on the north and south sides of the island to differ surprisingly. This has led to the creation of the man-made Levadas. These ingenious irrigation channels have been channeling the abundant water from the wet north to the drier southern part of the island for three centuries. These networks of levadas, which together span some 3,000 km, form a crucial part of the island’s heritage and landscape and are now rewarding and beautiful hiking trails.
A short taxi ride will take you from your hotel in Santo da Serra to the village of Maroços. Here, you’ll join the first levada trail, following the contours of Madeira’s rugged northeast coast. After Boca do Risco, which offers a great viewpoint, you’ll walk along a path halfway up the nearly 400-meter-high, sheer cliff face. Everywhere you look, there’s beautiful green vegetation; you’ll spot salamanders and butterflies and enjoy endless views of the sea. In the distance behind you, you can just make out the Ponta de São Lourenço peninsula. That’s where the beautiful PR8 hiking trail is located—something to save for another time!
After Espigao Amarelo, you’ll leave the deep cliffs behind you, and a winding footpath will take you to the harbor village of Porta da Cruz. It’s a real surf spot. There’s a newly built promenade and several surf hostels. There’s also a natural swimming pool right next to the ocean.
What if the weather isn’t great on the day you want to go on this hike? Don’t worry—there’s a shorter route starting from Ribeira de Machico.
You can take a taxi back to Santo da Serra. There’s a weekly Sunday market there. This is where the locals do their weekly shopping and wrap up the afternoon at one of the market bars. You’ll also find a few food stalls here and the occasional stray tourist.
Hiking from Maroços to Porto da Cruz
This beautiful levada hike takes you deep into the interior. The trail climbs very gradually to an elevation of over 900 meters. You’ll walk to the center of Santo de Serra, where you’ll find a few cafes and a small mini-market. From there, you’ll climb to the Levada da Serra, which merges into the Levada Furado. On this hike, you’ll spend the entire day walking through beautiful, shady forests. The trail is excitingly narrow in places, with lush and sometimes tropical vegetation everywhere, and once again, spectacular views. You’ll follow the levada all the way to its wooded endpoint in Ribeiro Frio.
For those who are up for it, there’s one last little climb to a viewpoint: Panorama Balcoes. You can also enjoy a drink on the terrace of the Ribeiro Frio restaurant… The taxi ride back to the hotel offers incredible views of the city Funchal. Every moment of the ride feels like a scene from a movie, with panoramic views stretching across the lively city and the calm ocean.
Hike from Santo da Serra to Ribeiro Frio
A journey into traditional Madeira. From the hotel, you’ll descend deep into Curral das Freiras along a beautiful old footpath with thousands of steps. Once a very remote and isolated village in the heart of the Nuns’ Valley (in the distant past, nuns took refuge here from sea pirates). Past the village center—which is otherwise unremarkable—you continue on to the part of the village where the houses are perched on steep slopes, each with its own vegetable garden and small irrigation channel. These are remnants of the tea plantations that once existed here two centuries ago to supply the English market.
Don’t feel like climbing all those stairs back down into the valley? There’s also a bus! It’ll take you back up in ten minutes. Not a bad option if you want to give your feet a break in preparation for the spectacular P1 hike.
Hike to Curral das Freiras
Deep in the heart of Madeira, in the small village of Faja dos Cardos, you’ll begin the fourth hike along a historic trade route. In just over 2.5 hours, this route takes you through a fairytale-like eucalyptus forest to a major pass in the central mountain range: the Boca das Torrinhas Pass. Here, you’ll join the spectacular PR1 hiking trail, the breathtakingly beautiful path across Madeira’s central mountain range. The trail is dotted with countless steps and features both steep descents and climbs, with steel cables here and there to help you keep your footing.
This hike requires good physical fitness and sure-footedness; but what a magnificent hike—unforgettable! The hike ends at a little bar in Encumeada and left a lasting impression, earning it a spot in our top three all-time best hikes!
PR1 from Faja dos Cardos to Boca da Encumeada
On the edge of the Serra Grande, you’ll begin a gradual descent toward the southwest of the island. First, you’ll follow a levada with yet more stunning views; then you’ll pass through the beautiful old laurel forests and descend along forest trails to the level where the highest settlements are located. Eventually, you’ll arrive in Estreito da Calheta, a charming parish on the southwest coast, known for its pleasant climate, rich agricultural traditions, and wine production. The famous Madeira wine comes from this region. The people in this small community are very hospitable. Here, you’re far away from the busier tourist centers.
Hike from Pico da Urze to Estreito da Calheta
The last hotel is Quinta das Vinhas. This charming retreat is surrounded by vast vineyards, where you can enjoy the peace and quiet, the beautiful garden with many different kinds of trees and flowers, and even a herb garden. At dawn, you’ll hear an incredible variety of birds here. This hotel, housed in a beautiful old country estate, offers all the comfort you’ll need after six hikes. It’s a perfect retreat for anyone seeking peace and relaxation in the midst of nature.
Hotel Quinta das Vinhas places a strong emphasis on sustainability and respect for the environment, which is reflected in its operations and its harmony with the surrounding nature. You can choose from rooms in the main building or—for more privacy—in one of the picturesque cottages scattered throughout the estate. From every location within the hotel, there are breathtaking views of the Atlantic Ocean and the green hills of Madeira.
The restaurant at Quinta das Vinhas, Bago, is well worth a visit. Here, the flavors of Madeira really come to life. They cook with fresh, local ingredients, and there’s a wide selection of vegetarian dishes. You can also explore Madeira’s wine culture through the carefully curated wine list, which features a focus on local wines. The staff is friendly and incredibly welcoming!
From Quinta das Vinhas, located in the middle of a centuries-old vineyard in Estreito da Calheta, you can take one last walk to Calheta. You’ll climb through the narrow streets of Estreito up to Levada Nova. Then begins the long descent, along an old fishermen’s path, to the harbor of Calheta. Here you’ll find an artificial sandy beach where you can swim. There’s also a sugarcane mill with a small, charming museum about sugarcane: Sociedade dos Engenhos da Calheta. Be sure to sample the rum—and especially the sugarcane syrup cookies!
For art lovers: be sure to set aside plenty of time for your visit to the architecturally acclaimed Museu de Arte Contemporânea (Mudas), a leading museum of contemporary art. This museum houses an impressive collection of modern Portuguese artworks and exceeds all expectations.
Hike from Estreito da Calheta to Calheta
Prices per person based on double occupancy
Not included
Als je een offerte aanvraagt, sturen we deze door naar onze (Nederlandse) partner en bevestigen zij direct aan jou indien akkoord. Je betaalt dezelfde prijs als wanneer je direct reserveert. Verdere afhandeling van de reservering en betaling regel je met de reisorganisatie (met wie wij goed contact en afspraken hebben). Wij blijven altijd beschikbaar voor mogelijke vragen.
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Mieke Tacken
Ik ben interieurontwerper, fotograaf en een fervent liefhebber van wandelen in de natuur. Ik heb mijn hart verloren aan de eenvoud en schoonheid van wandelvakanties. Ik waardeer ik ook de unieke ervaring van een verblijf dat een verhaal vertelt over de lokale geschiedenis of cultuur. Ik deel hier mijn verhalen en tips, waar mogelijk met een lichte voetafdruk en altijd een hart vol verwondering.
Met een passie voor reizen en fotografie én meer dan 30 jaar ervaring in de reisbranche, deel ik graag mijn bijzondere natuur-reistips. Reizen is heerlijk en belangrijk, je ontmoet nieuwe mensen en culturen en het opent je blik op de wereld.
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