The Loire River can truly be called the queen of rivers. The longest “wild” river in France has its source in the Haute-Loire, a department located between the cities of Lyon and Clermont-Ferrand. This lush region in the Auvergne is a paradise for nature lovers, hikers, and those seeking peace and quiet.
And that’s why we’re here. The most important question we have to answer today is: are we going rafting or hiking? The great thing is that we can do both, because if you walk through Chamalières-sur-Loire and follow the GR3 signs, you’ll end up at the rafting spot without even realizing it.
After less than ten minutes, we’re already crawling and creeping through the tall, wet grass. You have to watch your step here so you don’t slip on the slippery trail. But taking it easy is certainly no punishment, because down by the water’s edge, bright red poppies stand out beautifully against the picturesque village of Chamalières across the way. I spot a Romanesque church with graceful arches.
This hiking trail is also close to the route to Santiago de Compostela. Along the way, we’ve already seen the symbol of the pilgrimage route, the famous St. James shell. As we walk along the riverbank, we see rafts passing by with people paddling wildly inside them. Our hiking trail briefly turns into a small paved road that leads through a typical sleepy little village.
After the village, the road turns into a steep, gravel-covered forest path. Once we reach the top, we look out over a deep valley through which the green Loire River winds. We take a moment to catch our breath and enjoy the view.
The Haute-Loire is a beautiful department in the Auvergne region. Its remarkably varied landscape was shaped by hundreds of volcanoes in the most extraordinary forms. Rivers and small lakes have carved their way through and around them.
The GR3 is France’s oldest hiking trail and runs right through the Haute-Loire. If you have the energy—and the time—you can hike all the way from the mouth of the Loire, where we are now, to the Atlantic Ocean. Starting in Aurec-sur-Loire, it follows the course of the Loire all the way to Mont Gerbier de Jonc in the Ardèche. Covering a distance of about 230 km, you can hike the GR in about 12 days.
A little further on, the landscape changes completely, with ferns and deciduous trees here and there. We also see huge mushrooms along the path. Some of them have been nibbled on a bit. There are many legends about gnomes in this area, and I can easily imagine that in a setting like this.
We head back downhill and continue along the winding Loire River. On this stretch of the G3, we hardly come across any other hikers. What a difference from the Ardèche, which isn’t far from here. That’s truly one of the great advantages of this area. There’s still very little tourism, so you can fully enjoy the untamed wilderness.
The water of the Loire is crystal clear and really freezing cold. We have a “canoraft,” as they call it in France. That means two people sit in an inflatable boat. After a thorough explanation, we’re given a snug-fitting wetsuit, a helmet, and a paddle. Rafting is really great once you get the hang of it. After an hour of vigorous paddling, we pass Chamalières-sur-Loire, which we walked past this morning. A little later, we pull the boat ashore. On the campground’s cozy terrace, we enjoy a locally brewed beer.
We don’t feel like cooking ourselves, so we end up at a restaurant in the tiny hamlet of Solignac sous Roche. A fitting name—“roche”—because the restaurant, Auberge Lou Pinatou, sits atop a rock surrounded by magnificent views of no fewer than three mountain ranges. We’re told that they’ve been cooking up a storm here for 150 years. You can tell from everything that the food here is prepared by people who are truly passionate about it. Everything is prepared with care and love and served with pride.
The next morning, we’re out and about early again. About an hour from our lodging lies Saint-Victor-sur-Loire, just west of Saint-Étienne, the department’s capital. Here, the river winds its way through the landscape, as it were, through a gorge. The area is teeming with hiking trails. Today we’re going for an easy hike: the Plateau de la Danse.
Meadows, forests, rocky areas, and the occasional glimpse of the winding river below make for a very varied landscape. We walk to the lookout point on a rock where, far below, lies the medieval village of Saint-Victor-sur-Loire with its little harbor. The jagged gorge resembles a giant snake. In the distance across the river, I can see the sandstone towers of Château d’Essalois peeking out from among the dense forest.
Who says there aren’t any castles here? They just look very different from those further north. No frills or fuss, just sturdy fortresses built to withstand a beating. D’Essalois Castle was first mentioned in the14th century. You can visit it for free, and the view is priceless.
We make our way down gently and then board an electric (!) tour boat. The little harbor of Saint-Victor-sur-Loire is situated on a huge reservoir. As we enjoy the view gliding by, an enthusiastic guide—clearly proud of her area—provides us with commentary. Meanwhile, we’re also treated to a delicious lunch. We cruise through a fabulous landscape with beautiful, gleaming granite rocks and the occasional medieval village.
Then, suddenly, a small island comes into view. This is Île de Grangent, featuring a castle and a chapel. This imposing castle once stood on a rock dozens of meters above the Loire. Since the construction of the dam, it has become an island. It’s truly impressive. Unfortunately, you can’t visit it—you can only admire it from a distance.
After an hour on the water, we return to the little harbor. We’re fully recharged and ready for another hike in this stunning region. There are plenty of options! The Haute-Loire is known as the “green south” of Auvergne, and as far as we’re concerned, it’s a highlight for hikers.
Nathalie
Bonjour, my name is Nathalie. France is my great passion. I take just about every opportunity to travel to France (preferably by train) to highlight undiscovered gems.
Whether cycling, hiking or climbing. I prefer to combine nature and culture so France is the place to be!
In addition to writing and vlogging, I organize (group) trips in cooperation with magazines and travel agencies.
For Nature Travel Lab, I also like to take occasional trips into my own country, the United Kingdom and whatever else comes my way. Will you join me?
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