The Grandes Traversées du Jura: The Most Beautiful Hiking and Biking Routes

Les Grandes Traversées du Jura, commonly known as “GTJ,” comprise nearly 400 kilometers of spectacular trails in the mountainous region of eastern France. You can explore the trails on foot, on skis, on snowshoes, by mountain bike, or even on horseback. A route for connoisseurs! Ambassador Nathalie sets out to explore them.

In the border region with Switzerland , the GTJ winds along steep cliffs, over high mountains, and through dark forests.

Hiking Trail 1: The Smugglers’ Trail to Château de Joux in La Cluse-et-Mijoux

Today, David, my partner, and I are going for a walk to warm up. The names of the trails you can hike show just how exciting this can be. How about the Smugglers’ Trail? This hiking trail is named after the smugglers who, until the mid-19th century, secretly transported everything under the sun from Switzerland to France—from salt, coffee, and tobacco to watches and absinthe.

During World War II, Jews were also brought to safety in Switzerland via the old smuggling route. We take a look at the GTJ trail markers and decide to take a walk of about five kilometers to the famous Château de Joux in La Cluse-et-Mijoux. It’s a good thing I brought my rain poncho, because the first raindrops start falling as soon as we set out on the trail. The trail is strewn with large and small white boulders that become very slippery as the rain starts to come down harder. We trudge through the streams of mud that form, and then suddenly the path seems to climb straight up. There’s no turning back.

Just as we’re almost at the top, the sun suddenly breaks through the clouds, and magical beams of light sparkle through the thick branches. Our efforts are rewarded with a breathtaking view of Joux Castle, perched on a mountaintop at an altitude of about 1,100 meters across a green valley. “Stu-pe-ndid!” I exclaim, and I immediately forget the pain in my calves. I look out over the valley again, which, in the sunlight, seems to have at least ten shades of green. I never knew there were so many different shades of green.

The mountain pass was once the most important trade route between Switzerland and France. The imposing castle was first built of wood in the 11th century. Later, it was converted into an impregnable fortress by none other than the famous architect Vauban, the favorite of Louis XIV, the Sun King. Still later, the fortress was modernized by the renowned Marshal Joffre and incorporated into the famous Maginot Line to protect France against a German invasion. However, that turned out to be pure fantasy, as the Germans simply bypassed the line to reach France.

During the descent, we suddenly see a family of chamois appear above us. They’re called chamois here. The beautiful silhouette of their horns stands out against the castle. The animals stand perfectly still on the steep slope. They must sense that we’re friendly folks, because they soon go back to chewing their cud.

Hiking Tour 2: The Route de l’Absinthe

Another unique hike is the Route de l’Absinthe. This route consists of several stages, extending all the way into Switzerland. We start near Pontarlier, the absinthe capital of the world. The “green fairy,” as absinthe is called, has made a full comeback in France in recent years.

Near Pontarlier, Arnaud Bourgeois runs a distillery that produces organic absinthe. We can’t wait to try it! Serving a glass of absinthe is a special ritual. On the table stands a large glass bowl on a long, elegant silver stem. Beneath the bowl is a reservoir with four spouts protruding from it. With great concentration, Arnaud turns the spouts. Drops fall into the glasses he holds beneath them one by one. We watch in awe as the clear liquid in the glasses turns cloudy when the drops of ice water fall into them.

A strong scent of anise fills my nostrils, and I take a cautious sip. Tears spring to my eyes and I start coughing, but it tastes so good! Arnaud is an organic absinthe distiller. In the garden at the distillery—which doubles as a farm—he and his wife, Anne-Sophie, grow herbs such as wormwood, fennel, and cilantro, which they use to make three varieties of absinthe: Blanche, Verte, and Fine. My favorite is La Verte. I’m glad we went for a walk before the tasting, because it really packs a punch—in a pleasant way.

Hiking Trail 3: Among the Cows at the Saint-Antoine Cheese Fort

Early the next morning, we visit the Saint-Antoine military fort, which these days is home not to soldiers, but to 100,000 Comté cheeses. There are fantastic hiking trails near the cheese fort. Along the way, we see red-and-white-spotted Montbéliarde cows with large bells around their necks grazing peacefully everywhere. These are special cows because only their milk can be used to make the world-famous Comté.

The sun slowly dispels the low-hanging wisps of clouds, and just as we approach the fort, we’re treated to a magnificent view. Everywhere you look, there are beautiful, green mountains and dense forests. The scene is made even more atmospheric by the ever-present jingle of cowbells. As soon as we enter the fort, the temperature drops noticeably by a few degrees.

Our young “cheese guide,” Sylvie, talks enthusiastically about the history of the cheese and the fort, which is now called the “Cathedral of Comté.” I notice that young people in this region are very proud of their centuries-old traditions. It’s nice to see. After the tour, we get to taste different Comté cheeses ourselves.

Hike 4: The Highlight of Crêt de Chalam

The last hike we recommend is literally a highlight for many hikers: the Crêt de Chalam. This mountain, with its pointed peak, stands 1,545 meters high and is visible from all directions. To get there, we first climb through the quaint mountain village of La Pesse to the famous Borne au Lion border marker, an important historical site in the history of the Jura.

In the seventeenth century, this was the border between France, Savoy, and… the Kingdom of Spain. This may sound strange, but at the time, Franche-Comté—just like our country—was part of Spain. During World War II, there was a command post for the French Resistance here in the valley. The view of the mountain ridge is phenomenal. The panorama stretches as far as the eye can see: deep valleys, steep mountain slopes, and mist-shrouded peaks. I feel small and insignificant, yet at the same time privileged to be able to behold such beauty.

A little while later, we settle down on the terrace of the cozy mountain hut Le Berbois, where the owners give us a warm welcome. There’s a cozy atmosphere in this secluded refuge. The owner chats away enthusiastically about the region, while his wife sets the table with delicious local sausage, Comté cheese, homemade bread, and a carafe of red wine.

In this special place, you can leave the real world far behind for a while. Especially in winter, when the remote mountain hut can only be reached by snowmobile, snowshoes, or a husky-drawn sled. What makes the Jura so special is that it’s not the France everyone knows from the vineyards and lavender fields. It’s rugged and charming at the same time—a bit like Switzerland with a spicy French twist. If you know what I mean.

The GTJ by Bike

After our hiking trips, it’s time to explore the bike trails. There are hundreds of kilometers of both easy, flat paved bike paths and rugged, challenging mountain bike trails. No matter which trail or stage you choose, spectacular views and unspoiled nature are guaranteed. Don’t forget to bring a map or GPS. Here are our top 3 bike rides.

Bike Tour 1: Mountain Biking to Mont d’Or

If you ask us, the area around Métabief and Mont d’Or is one of the highlights of the GTJ. Here you’ll find a perfect mix of climbs, views of mountains and valleys, lakes, and forests. The Métabief ski resort is located at an altitude of about 1,000 meters. People ski there in the winter, although due to climate change, the focus is already shifting more and more toward summer tourism.

In the summer, it’s also a mountain biking destination. We’ll warn you in advance: the climb up Mont d’Or is really tough, but well worth the effort. The mix of narrow trails and open mountain meadows (watch out for cow patties) makes this ride a real adventure. On some stretches, you won’t see a soul, which adds to the feeling of being far from civilization.

Once you reach the top, the 360˚ view of the Jura Mountains and the Alps is truly impressive. This is also a perfect spot for a picnic. And don’t forget to look down at the ground, too. Here you’ll find the most beautiful flowers and plants, such as mountain valerian with its soft pink blossoms, wild daffodils, and yellow gentian with its long stem. And on the steep cliffs, you might just spot a chamois (bring your binoculars!).

Bike Tour 2: Cycling Along Lakes and Rivers

Another beautiful stage of the (Petite) GTJ runs partly along Lac de Saint-Point (across from Malbuisson). A little further south, you’ll reach Mouthe, where the wild Doubs River (after which the department is named) has its source. In and around the river, you’ll find an enormous wealth of biodiversity, including more than 200 species of birds, dozens of dragonfly species, and an abundance of large fish such as pike, catfish, and carp.

Bike Tour 3: From Mijoux to Lajoux

The lynx has been back in the Haut-Jura Nature Reserve for over 50 years now. And that says a lot about the area’s rich natural environment. Other animals found here include the fox, the European hare, and, of course, the squirrel. The quiet and authentic mountain village of Mijoux is a great base for bike rides in this rich Nature reserve. Mijoux is located at an altitude of about 1,000 meters in the Valserine River valley (a tributary of the Rhône), in the heart of the Haut-Jura Regional Nature Park.

We choose a beautiful, not-too-difficult bike ride to Lajoux. The paved road from Mijoux winds slowly upward through a wooded, mountainous landscape. A little later, we cycle past alpine meadows, with the forests in the distance. Lajoux is home to the nature park’s visitor center. It’s very interesting if you want to learn more about the flora and fauna.

By now we’ve worked up an appetite, so we cycle about 400 meters further for a cheese tasting. At the Fruitière de Lajoux cheese farm, you can sample a delicious blue cheese, Bleu de Gex, or one of the other local cheeses, such as Morbier.

For a change of pace, we decide to take the “Route du Manon” back to Mijoux through the countryside. Along the way, take note of the houses with paper-thin wooden shingles—the tavaillons—that protect the facades from the elements. This tradition dates back to the^15th century.

Practical Tips for Hiking and Biking in the Jura

• More information about the GTJ: https://www.gtj.asso.fr/nl/
• Various accommodations: https://nl.montagnes-du-jura.fr/organiseer-je-verblijf/accommodaties/
• Learn more about the region Burgundy-Franche-Comté
• Read more about hiking in the Morvan

The Grandes Traversees de Jura on the map