A pilgrimage in the Morvan, the green heart of Burgundy

When you think of Burgundy, you might think mainly of wines, good food, and centuries-old heritage. But the region is also home to a hidden paradise: the Morvan. This green heart of Burgundy lies roughly between Paris and Lyon. The Morvan Regional Nature Park was established in 1970 and is one of the oldest nature parks in France.

To give you an idea, the province of Utrecht could fit inside this area twice. The region is also sparsely populated. Here you’ll find not only vast forests, but also rivers, lakes, farming hamlets, white Charolais cows grazing peacefully, and, of course, countless hiking and biking trails.

The Vallee du Cousin: Hiking from Pontaubert to Vézelay

I begin my journey of discovery in the idyllic valley of the Cousin River, on the northern side of the Morvan. This valley is part of the GR213 multi-day hiking trail, which ends in Vézelay, the famous pilgrimage site on the route to Santiago de Compostela. My hike begins in the charming village of Pontaubert, which lies directly on the Cousin River.

Before long, all I can hear is birds singing and the murmur of the little river. I notice that the water here is crystal clear. This is a Natura 2000 area, and that protection increases the chances of spotting rare birds. Species found here include the dipper, or a songbird such as the red-backed shrike (a species threatened with extinction in the Netherlands).

Along the way, I hear beautiful singing and whistling, but unfortunately, the birds remain out of sight today. I do see blue herons standing along the riverbank, lurking motionless for prey. During the walk, you have to scramble over large boulders here and there, but that’s a nice change of pace. Halfway there, I see yellow trail signs pointing to Vézelay. That’s my final destination.

Approx. 2.5-hour hike, easy hike

Canoeing on the Cure River

After the walk, I went boating on the Cure River. One of the boarding points is in Saint-Père, a small village between Pontaubert and Vézelay. The route passes through hamlets such as Pierre-Perthuis, which has two (actually three) impressive bridges. A great spot for a photo stop. I say “hamlet,” but Pierre-Perthuis has long been a strategic location.

From the big bridge, you can see the Cure—which has its source further on in the Morvan—winding its way through the landscape. Way down below, I spot my bright red canoe on the bank. Time to paddle on again. There are rapids here and there in the river, and I regularly scrape the bottom of my canoe against the boulders.

I treat it like a sport to dodge the rocks as much as possible. Along the way, I attract the attention of sturdy Charolais cows who watch curiously as I paddle wildly. I can already see my final destination, the pilgrimage town of Vézelay, in the distance. What a fun way to explore the Morvan from the water!

Climbing and descending in the Gorges de Narvau, waterfall near Lormes

The Morvan is also known for its large lakes, such as Lac des Settons, Lac du Crescent (shaped like a croissant), and my personal favorite, Lac de Pannecière—the largest lake in Burgundy, with stunning views and vistas. The nature park also features a few impressive waterfalls that are well worth seeing.

I decide to take a short hike to the Narveau Gorge, just outside the charming little town of Lormes in the heart of the Morvan. The first descent is immediately super steep, so I’m glad I’m wearing my hiking boots. Of course, I don’t know what’s coming next, but the trail turns out to be a breeze from there on. It’s a wonderfully relaxing walk of less than 1.5 kilometers along a forest path beside fast-flowing water. There are nice picnic spots here and there, and in the spring you can admire a carpet of blue hyacinths in the Gorges de Narvau. I’ll definitely come back for that. My walk ends at the waterfall, but you can easily extend the loop further.

Climbing the “Eternal Hill” in Vézelay

My last stop is Vézelay. If you’re heading to the Morvan, a visit to the “eternal hill” (la colline éternelle) is a must. This medieval town perched on a hill surrounded by vineyards can be considered the northern gateway to the Morvan. There’s a special atmosphere here, with pilgrims and tourists coming from all over. Ever since the Middle Ages, people have been coming to venerate the relics of Mary Magdalene in the basilica of the same name. In the 12th century, a call to a crusade was issued at the foot of the hill. In short, this area is steeped in history.

By the end of the day, it has cooled off, and together with some pilgrims, I set out on the climb. The little path up through the town is quite steep, and I immediately feel it in my calves. Along the way, I pass a pilgrim who is leading a donkey loaded with luggage uphill. The poor donkey doesn’t seem too keen on it.

After about a quarter of an hour of “climbing,” the impressive Basilica of Mary Magdalene comes into view. The facade glows a beautiful golden yellow in the late evening sun. I start by walking around the church. On the side is a monastery garden with deep red roses and pink hollyhocks that stand out beautifully against the sandstone walls. From the garden, you have a magnificent view of the surrounding valley, with vineyards interspersed with forests and hills. Behind the basilica stand beautiful old trees that surely have many stories to tell.

Both the facade and the interior of the basilica are just as breathtaking as the surroundings of Vézelay. After my visit, I plop down at a sidewalk café and look back with satisfaction on my pilgrimage to the Morvan.

Accommodation Tips and Other Hikes in the Morvan

• If you have more time to explore the Morvan, take the GR13 from Vézelay to Autun (or vice versa).
• Book a wine walk (or any other walk) with Michel Boutry, a Flemish storyteller who has been living and working in the Morvan since 2016. https://miguelbouttry.net/wijn/
• Book a single walking tour or a walking tour package with Patricia Lazeroms: www.chambresdhotesmontjouan.com
• Stay like a pilgrim at Hotel le Compostelle in Vézelay. Simple yet spacious rooms with a beautiful garden and stunning views of the wooded hills.
• If you’re looking for something more luxurious, book a room at Hotel de La Poste et du Lion d’Or.
• You can stay in the idyllic Cousin Valley at the “eco-friendly” Hotel Le Moulin des Templiers in Pontaubert.
• More hiking trails in the Morvan: https://bourgondietoerist.nl/doen/wandelen-bourgogne-en-morvan/wandelroutes-morvan

Read more about a hiking trail in the Jura.