The Wadden Sea Coast of Groningen and Friesland

The Wadden Sea Coast of Groningen and Friesland: A Sea of Space

The Wadden Islands are the more obvious choice, but if you love peace and quiet, the other side—the Frisian and Groningen Wadden Coast—is definitely worth considering. Read about the unique landscape, Lauwersmeer National Park, the Ziltepad, the Dark Sky, the local cuisine, and tips for where to stay.

The Wadden Sea: a unique tidal area and a UNESCO World Heritage Site

The Wadden Sea is one of the largest tidal areas in the world, stretching from Den Helder in the Netherlands to Esbjerg in Denmark, over a distance of more than 500 km. The unpredictable weather and changing tides mean that the flora and fauna of the Wadden Sea must constantly adapt. This is one of the reasons why the area has been recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.

The Wadden Sea partially recedes twice a day, allowing you to walk or wade across the mudflats. At low tide, vast expanses of sand and mudflats appear, while at high tide the area is completely submerged. In the Frisian language, the Wadden Sea is also known as the “Waadsee,” referring to the fact that this unique Nature reserve can be crossed on foot.

Birdwatching in Lauwersmeer National Park: a unique bird migration route

On the border between Friesland and Groningen lies Lauwersmeer National Park, where you can wander through the rugged landscape at the bottom of what was once the sea. This nature reserve is a true paradise for birdwatchers, as it lies on one of the world’s most important bird migration routes. With various bird-watching huts and observation towers, the park offers fantastic opportunities for both experienced and novice birdwatchers. You can spot all kinds of species here, from spoonbills to barnacle geese and snipes. In addition to small-billed birds, you’ll also encounter large grazers here. Don’t forget your binoculars.

Hiking Trails in Lauwersmeer National Park and Dark Sky Site

Staatsbosbeheer has mapped out eleven hiking trails of varying distances and with different themes. In addition, it has been an official Dark Sky location since 2016. That’s why the park is also open at night, so you can enjoy the Milky Way on a clear night. Read more about stargazing on the Wadden Sea coast below.

The Ziltepad: A New Pilgrimage Route Through Friesland and Groningen

The Ziltepad is a new pilgrimage route that takes you past religious heritage sites along the Wadden Sea coast. You can walk or bike the route. It takes you past the medieval Frisian and Groningen churches from Eastrum through Lauwersoog and Vierhuizen to Hornhuizen. The route now consists of nine stages averaging 17 kilometers each.

You can spend the night in some of the churches along the route and turn it into a multi-day trip. Ultimately, the Ziltepad will consist of 22 stages, connecting 22 churches between Den Helder and Termunten near the German border. This will be implemented in several phases. You can have your route stamped at the churches and collect all 22 unique stamps.

The striking churches, built on mounds and hillocks, are open to visitors year-round. To gain access during the winter months, you can pick up the key at a designated location. The churches also host activities such as workshops and yoga classes. For overnight stays, you can choose from cozy hotels and B&Bs, but you can also stay at a villager’s home or—like a true pilgrim—in the church.

Contemplative Tourism

The Ziltepad is an initiative of the Groninger Kerken and the Alde Fryske Tsjerken Foundation, aimed at raising awareness and promoting contemplative tourism. The route is designed to help visitors slow down and reflect. Through the Ziltepad, they contribute to the vitality of the villages and the preservation of their unique heritage.

Birdwatching in De Kiekkaaste

On the border between the Netherlands and Germany, near Nieuwe Statenzijl, stands the Kiekkaaste—the most beautiful bird-watching hut in the Netherlands! What makes it special is that the Kiekkaaste is located outside the dike. From the mainland, you walk along a 600-meter-long boardwalk toward the hut. Once you arrive, you can look out from the Kiekkaaste onto the Dollard—a special place where the fresh water of the Eems and the salt water of the Wadden Sea meet. This unique location serves as a habitat for various birds, fish, and plants that have adapted to the changing conditions. The Kiekkaaste is open from sunrise to sunset. Dogs are not allowed in this Natura 2000 area.

The boardwalk begins just behind the Nieuwstatenzijl lock complex. There you’ll also find a great “footpath” for young eels—the eel channel. This structure allows the baby fish to easily make the upstream crossing from the saltwater of the Dollard to the freshwater of the Westerwoldse Aa. After a few years, the eels return via the eel passage to the Dollard and from there on to the Sargasso Sea, where they originally came from. There they mate and die, completing their life cycle.

TIP: Next to the lock complex, the food truck“Bakje doen”serves delicious hot and cold drinks!

A unique way to go mudflat walking, spot porpoises, and watch seals

Want to explore the mudflats in a sustainable way? Then check out the mudflat expeditions at Wadexpedities.nl. Founded a few years ago by Casper Meinders and Anja Mellink to offer an alternative to the mass mudflat walks and well-known nature tours. As a beachcomber and mudflat resident, Casper wanted above all to share his love of adventure, his passion for the beach and the mudflats, and his sense of wonder about the area with others in a unique way. The expeditions are journeys of discovery where adventure and learning go hand in hand—all while ensuring the Wadden Sea region isn’t unnecessarily burdened or disturbed. You can go beachcombing, on a porpoise-watching expedition from Lauwersoog, or on a mudflat hike from Pieterburen. Feel free to ask for a custom excursion—for example, a walk through the salt marshes near Moddergat.

The Johannes Kerkhoven Polder: A Historical Transformation of Arable Farming

The Johannes Kerkhoven Polder, a remarkable enclave within the Wadden Sea region, tells a fascinating story of transformation and reconstruction. This area was once a rugged salt marsh right on the coast, but over the years it has been transformed into fertile farmland. The polder is named after Johannes Kerkhoven, a descendant of an Amsterdam banking family, whose influence is still evident in the vast fields. This man-made ecosystem is now primarily used for growing potatoes, sugar beets, and grain.

Unique Flora and Fauna in the Eems Dollard

The area in the Eems-Dollard region is not only important for agriculture; it also plays a crucial role in the conservation of local flora and fauna. For example, the polder provides a habitat for rare species such as the bellflower gentian and the protected badger. With each season, the polder transforms into a living work of art, from the bright yellow rapeseed fields in the spring to the mystical gray skies in the fall, which blend with the sea and the muddy land. These fields and farmlands, with their firm clay soil, invite you to slow down.

You can explore the polder by bike or on foot, surrounded by endless skies and sweeping views. A farmhouse plaque bearing the inscription “Where the waves once crashed, the wheat now rustles. Where war once raged, the seed now ripens” serves as a reminder of the resilience and rich historical heritage of this unique corner of the Netherlands.

Stargazing on the Wadden Sea Coast

You can go on an adventure not only during the day but certainly at night as well. On the Wadden Sea coast, you can experience the night in a way that’s possible almost nowhere else in the Netherlands. The Wadden Sea region has one of the darkest skies in the country. On clear nights, a breathtaking view of the starry sky unfolds, with even the Milky Way visible to the naked eye. And very occasionally, the magical Northern Lights even appear on the horizon.

Local businesses and nature organizations such as WaddenSky are committed to preserving the unique darkness. WaddenSky organizes stargazing evenings where you can view the stars and the moon through a professional telescope. They can tell you everything there is to know about astronomy, so you’ll not only understand what you’re seeing but also better appreciate the beauty of the night sky.

Our recommendations for places to stay on the Wadden Sea coast

  • In Delfzijl, you can sleep right above the mudflats! Ask for a room on the ocean side, and if you leave the curtains open, you’ll wake up as early as a bird on the mudflats. Hotel on stilts: The Eemshotel, Delfzijl, Groningen.
  • A really cool new spot is the stylishly converted dairy factory: Suvelfabryk in Ljussen, Friesland. They have spaces for groups and large families, as well as a glass-walled penthouse with a 180-degree view of the surrounding area—visible from the couch, your bed, and even your bathtub.
  • Farm Stay: PolderStee, located in the nationally designated historic farmhouse of Johannes Kerkhovenpolder B.V. in Woldendorp, Groningen.

Culinary Discoveries on the Wadden Sea Coast

The restaurants in this region prove that vegetarian and vegan cuisine is set to take a prominent place in the culinary world. Here are five standout spots that are more than worth a visit!

  1. Proef Lokaal Dokkum. In an intimate setting, they celebrate the sea and the land in their purest form. We embarked on a culinary vegan journey around the world led by chefs Liudger van der Meer and Geert-Jan Vaartjes. They combine local, authentic flavors with global and modern techniques.
  2. Janet Frieling of “Gekruid & Geroerd” organizes fantastic cooking workshops where you learn about plants and herbs while walking, and then use them to cook your own meals. A winning combination. “Gekruid & Geroerd” also offers on-site catering. For example, when you’re staying at the Suvelfabryk with your family or a group.
  3. Paviljoen Overdiep is a brasserie with an industrial vibe, serving authentic, high-quality, and fresh dishes. They collaborate with local businesses to ensure that regional products take center stage. They also offer, among other things, delicious vegan dishes.
  4. The Pavilion at De Schreiershoek vacation park in Oostrum near Dokkum, Friesland. Legend has it that there was once a harbor here where fishermen were seen off by their weeping wives and children. Now it’s a lovely spot by the water. A mother and daughter serve the food here—and don’t miss the delicious vegetarian croquettes!

The Tides in the Wadden Sea

One of the most striking features of the Wadden Sea is the tide, with high tide twice a day and low tide twice a day. The currents this creates vary in strength depending on the difference between high and low tide. In the Netherlands, this difference is smaller than in Germany and Denmark, resulting in weaker currents. This affects the size of the islands and the sea channels. In the Netherlands, the sea channels are smaller than in Germany and Denmark. These tidal movements make the Wadden Sea a constantly changing and fascinating area that deserves a special place in the hearts of nature lovers and adventurers.

The Wadden Coast on the map

Photo credits: Merel Tuk, Mieke Tacken, and Peter Tulner

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About the author

Mieke Tacken

I am an interior designer, photographer, and an avid nature hiker. I’ve lost my heart to the simplicity and beauty of hiking vacations. I also appreciate the unique experience of a stay that tells a story about local history or culture. Here, I share my stories and tips—whenever possible, with a light footprint and always with a heart full of wonder.

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