What draws many travelers to Norway is Preikestolen: the iconic rock plateau that juts out 604 meters above the steel-blue Lysefjord. But what many people don’t know is that this area has much more to offer: tranquil highlands, moon-like rock formations, colorful coastal villages, and fjords that can only be reached by ferry. In this blog, I’ll take you on a journey through the most beautiful hikes, unique places to stay, and routes in southwestern Norway, starting from Stavanger.
A land of fjords, Vikings, and trolls. Vast and sparsely populated. While the Alpine countries already leave you in awe of their stunning vistas, Norway takes it a step further. An incredibly beautiful landscape with very few buildings. Every time you think it can’t get any more beautiful, another unparalleled view unfolds before you.
Friluftsliv— life in the great outdoors—is therefore a deeply rooted philosophy in Norwegian culture, in which people seek a connection with nature and enjoy it.
The southwestern region around Stavanger is a perfect introduction to Norway’s diverse landscape. Within a short distance, you’ll find fjords, the coast, and accessible hiking trails. In a single day, you can walk along the beach and, a few hours later, stand on a rocky plateau above the tree line.
The region offers plenty of opportunities if you enjoy outdoor activities, without having to commit to multi-day expeditions. Classic routes, such as those near the Lysefjord, are well-marked and easy to plan, but there are also lesser-known trails around small villages and along the coast that are quieter and just as beautiful. This makes the region a great place to naturally slow down.
This trip took me to the iconic Preikestolen viewpoint. Preikestolen is famous, which means it can get crowded. With a local guide, such as Explore Lysefjorden, you’ll get something you’d otherwise miss: a quieter trail up the mountain, additional viewpoints, explanations about the flora and fauna, and, if you’re lucky, the border collie mascot along the way.
We didn’t take the rocky main trail but instead followed the old horse trail up. The route winds through forest paths, rocky sections, and past small ponds and stunning vistas. It’s only once you reach the very top that the fjord opens up below you—it remains a special experience, no matter how many photos you’ve seen before. The guide first took us to a slightly higher plateau with a perfect view of Preikestolen from above. After a ten-minute descent, we climbed the majestic rock on our own.
We walked the trail in the late afternoon in late September, just before an early autumn storm, so I only saw a handful of hikers—and it was worth every gust of wind and raindrop. Incidentally, the main trail is always easily passable, even when there’s snow on the ground, but it consists entirely of rocky paths and steps. For safety reasons, make sure you don’t arrive at the top after dark.
Starting point: Øygardstølen Parking Lot
Duration: 5–6 hours round trip
Season: Not accessible in winter
The hike to Kjeragbolten is known for its elevation changes. The trail starts off with a steep climb right away, with chains to help you navigate the slippery rock slopes. After that, you’ll follow a series of ascents and descents across open mountain plateaus. Eventually, you’ll reach the top of the plateau, where the world suddenly opens up into a dizzying 1,000-meter-deep precipice leading straight down to the fjord. There, wedged between two vertical rock faces, the famous Kjeragbolten awaits: the suspended boulder that both challenges you and leaves you speechless.
The trail is well-marked and usually easy to follow, but can be slippery after rain, so sturdy hiking boots are a must (they’re also available for rent at the parking lot). Allow 5–6 hours for the round trip, including breaks. Due to weather conditions and snow, you can only take this hike with a guide outside of peak season.
Duration: 1.5–3 hours
Start: Måsvatnet parking lot
Hidden among the gently rolling heathlands and rounded rock formations with waterfalls, you’ll find one of Norway’s small natural icons: Trollpikken. The hike there winds through a landscape shaped by ancient magma walls, smoothed by thousands of years of wind, rain, and ice ages. The trail is easy enough for most hikers, but it still feels like you’re embarking on a little adventure; with every step, more of the unique, moon-like terrain unfolds.
The only downside—and the one thing that gives away the fact that you’re actually closer to civilization than to the moon—are the power lines running through the park and the wind turbines on the horizon. And then suddenly there it is: a spectacular rock formation that has withstood the centuries and rises above the landscape with playful pride—the Trollpikken. It’s a touch of Norwegian humor that’s guaranteed to make you smile.
The most common route to Trollpikken starts at the official Måsvatnet parking lot.
From there, the hike is about 3.2 km round trip, taking approximately 1.5 hours.
The trail is well-marked and gently sloping, with a few rocky sections, but generally suitable for most hikers. It can get a bit slippery when it rains and around the ponds.
There is also a longer route of about 5–6 km round trip starting from the parking lot at Vannbassengan, which then continues through Veshovda and Mjølhusåsen (the Opplev Dalane Trail).
After a brief exploration, I leave Stavanger behind and follow the coast south. The landscapes change gradually: the urban surroundings give way to rounded rock formations interspersed with countless ponds and lakes; we pass small fishing villages and valleys with rivers flowing toward the sea.
The first stop is the small town of Egersund, with a rich history and strikingly beautiful natural surroundings. Egersund is known for its white wooden houses and historic town center. Unlike many Norwegian towns, they were never destroyed by major fires, so their historic character has been well preserved. Today, it is home to one of Norway’s busiest fishing ports.
The coastline around Egersund is rugged and rocky, with small islands and deep inlets—typical of the Norwegian archipelago. Just outside the town, you’ll find the beautiful UNESCO Magma Geopark. The rock formations here consist largely of anorthosite, the same ancient rock that also makes up large parts of the moon’s surface. Due to the high density of this rock, trees can barely take root, giving the landscape an open, light-gray, and moon-like appearance. In this park, I took the hike to Trollpikken described earlier.
Sogndalstrand, a protected village with colorful wooden houses along a river estuary, is located 100 km south of Stavanger. As early as the17th century, it was already known as a lively trading settlement. In the 19th century, life here flourished thanks to fishing and shipping. It even had its own jail for those who got out of hand after the Saturday market (now a bar).
But like so many places that couldn’t keep up with industrialization, Sogndalstrand slowly fell into disrepair and seemed destined to become a ghost town. Today, it is precisely that forgotten charm that attracts visitors. Only about 80 people live here permanently, but the restored wooden houses, the protected cultural-historical atmosphere, and the salmon-rich river—which has once again become teeming with fish—bring the village to life.
On the main street of Sogndalstrand, you’ll find the Sogndalstrand Kulturhotell, a collection of lovingly restored wooden houses that together form a single hotel. Owner Eli Laupstad Omdal, together with her husband and a great deal of enthusiasm, has not only created rooms here but also an atmosphere that makes you feel like a guest in a living piece of history. The street is the lobby, the river is your view, and a friendly atmosphere prevails everywhere. In the cozy hotel restaurant, Folvik Kafé, everything revolves around flavor and tradition. The kitchen has been led for years by the same chef, known for her craftsmanship and dishes made with local ingredients.
From Sogndalstrand, it’s a short drive to the Jøssingfjord, a fjord with steep rock faces, known for two small wooden houses that have been tucked away beneath an overhanging cliff for hundreds of years: Helleren. The houses are protected by the rock. Wind and rain have had no chance here for centuries. It’s the perfect outing for a rainy day, because that’s exactly when you can truly appreciate how ingeniously these little houses were once built.
Be sure to visit the nearby Jøssingfjord Vitenmuseum as well—it’s a great starting point for gaining a better understanding of the region’s landscape and history. It’s a stunning new building, like a diamond set in the landscape. The modern addition is an extension of the old power plant.
Further inland toward Gloppedalsura, you’ll find the largest quarry slope in Northern Europe. It’s an impressive sight: gigantic boulders are piled up here against the flanks of the mountains, as if nature had once shattered something here in a single blow. This is a place to stop for a moment and take it all in; only then does the sheer scale of it really sink in.
In this region, I visited two special places for lunch, dinner, or an overnight stay:
One of Norway’s most beautiful driving routes starts in Sirdal. The road winds through a landscape that resembles a barren lunar valley: weathered rocks, tranquil mountain lakes in which the sky is reflected. In the fall, this area is enchanting. Reds, ochres, deep golds, and dark greens blend seamlessly together. The light is low and soft. You’ll never tire of the view here either.
Be sure to stop at Utsikt Tjødnapollen: a quiet, lesser-known viewpoint with a stunning panoramic view of the long, narrow Lake Tjødnapollen and the rugged, undulating rocky landscapes surrounding it. A little further on, you’ll find the Øygardstølen parking lot, the starting point for the hike to Kjeragbolten.
From the mountains, you descend via a spectacular road with hairpin turns to Lysebotn, at the very end of the Lysefjord. The Kolumbus ferry heads for Forsand. This isn’t a tourist cruise, but a local service—a simple ferry with free tea in the bar below deck. The view: blue-gray cliffs, waterfalls like silver threads, and uninhabited shores. Sit back in one of the plastic deck chairs and let the fjord glide past you for the next two hours. You can take your car on the ferry.
After crossing the fjord, I check in at Hotel Basecamp. I had no idea beforehand that a place called Basecamp would turn out to be a beautifully comfortable log cabin hotel with a phenomenal view of one of the many lakes. Great food and a cozy fireplace, plus sauna facilities. You can choose from very luxurious rooms as well as more modest ones. They also have a number of family rooms (for four people). On the grounds, there’s also an information kiosk and a shop selling hiking gear and offering hiking boot rentals.
After the hike to Preikestolen, I continue driving along the Norwegian Scenic Route Ryfylke. I stopped briefly at the Høllesli viewpoint, a lesser-known architecturally designed lookout point. From here, you can look deep into the Lysefjord. On a clear day, you can see a lighthouse; otherwise, you might spot patches of fog between the fjord’s cliffs.
Not far from there is The Bolder, a unique, high-end accommodation consisting of architecturally designed wooden cabins that appear to float on the cliff face. Even if you’re not staying here, it’s worth stopping by to take a look. The Bolder showcases what architecture can do: enhance nature without disrupting it. They’ll also be opening a restaurant here soon, where you can dine overlooking the fjord.
Before I head back to Stavanger, I’ll take one more lovely trip to OmCider in Hjelmeland. At this farm, set in a fairytale-like location at the foot of a massive mountainside, you can explore the apple orchard and taste how fruit, rain, and rocky soil come together to create flavor. The award-winning ciders are dry and crisp, and the atmosphere at OmCider is welcoming and personal. Pick up a few bottles to take home—these are flavors that will transport you back to the countryside.
This trip took me not only to the iconic Preikestolen viewpoint, but also to remote fjords, small coastal towns, quiet highlands, and charming hotels—all close to nature. And here in the far southwestern corner of the country, every drive is one where you find yourself with your nose pressed against the window so as not to miss a single bit of the beautiful landscape. A fan speaking? Yes, Norway has stolen my heart, and I never cease to be amazed at how I could have missed it on my radar for so long.
We Dutch have long looked south for our vacation destinations, but Norway turns out to be a missed opportunity for nature lovers! “What about the weather?” you might wonder, but the Norwegians say there’s no such thing as bad weather—only bad clothing.
Stavanger, Norway’s fourth-largest city, is compact and lively, with its harbor at the heart of the city. It’s the ideal base for exploring the Lysefjord region. Take some time to stroll through historic Gamle Stavanger, with its white-painted wooden houses lining the cobblestone streets.
Don’t forget to visit Øvre Holmegate, a street so colorful that on rainy days it brings sunshine to the city. Here you’ll find cafés, boutiques, and outdoor seating areas brimming with local charm.
Tip for a relaxing start: Start your day with a cup of coffee at Bøker og Børst, a café where books, games, and a warm, cozy atmosphere come together.
When you return to Stavanger at the end of your trip, the city feels different. You’ve now seen the quiet plateaus, the villages by the water, and the rocks that know no hurry. The city is a great place to wrap things up: enjoy some fresh fish at the harbor, visit Norway’s oldest cathedral—which has just been renovated—have one last coffee in Øvre Holmegate, and maybe even make plans to come back.
Car & Ferry:
Driving over bridges and through tunnels:
Flying:
Mieke Tacken
Ik ben interieurontwerper, fotograaf en een fervent liefhebber van wandelen in de natuur. Ik heb mijn hart verloren aan de eenvoud en schoonheid van wandelvakanties. Ik waardeer ik ook de unieke ervaring van een verblijf dat een verhaal vertelt over de lokale geschiedenis of cultuur. Ik deel hier mijn verhalen en tips, waar mogelijk met een lichte voetafdruk en altijd een hart vol verwondering.
Met een passie voor reizen en fotografie én meer dan 30 jaar ervaring in de reisbranche, deel ik graag mijn bijzondere natuur-reistips. Reizen is heerlijk en belangrijk, je ontmoet nieuwe mensen en culturen en het opent je blik op de wereld.
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