I’d heard a lot about the Lofoten Islands. But people always talk about winter or summer, the Northern Lights or the midnight sun. What nobody tells you is that spring is actually the best season. Peaceful, bright, and all to yourself.
I took the trip in April. The roads were empty. The fishing villages seemed to breathe. And I quickly understood why people have been living here for thousands of years. Because there’s so much to see, around every bend.
“The Lofoten in the spring are just as they’ve always been. It’s just that there are fewer people around to see them.”
Our complete slow travel tour of Lofoten and Vesteralen.
Summer in the Lofoten Islands is beautiful, but it’s also crowded. Really crowded. In August, the E10—the only main road—is regularly backed up with RVs and trailers. The roads are narrow. The parking lots at the popular spots are already packed before you even get there.
In addition, during the winter there are people who aren’t used to driving in the snow. That also causes delays.
Spring and fall are a lull for the archipelago. I was pleasantly surprised to experience it during that very lull. That said, the weather is unpredictable at this latitude. The week after I got home, there was another heavy snowfall. I was lucky, and the light is beautiful. But even the rain is beautiful here; it makes the mountains look even more dramatic.
I started my trip in Svolvaer. It’s the logistical gateway to the archipelago. It’s easily accessible by plane (Widerøe), by bus from Evenes, or by ferry from Bodø to Moskenes. It’s a tourist spot with large hotels. Use it as a starting point, not as a final destination.
Anker Brygge is a lovely place to stay by the water, with the restaurant Kjøkkenet, which is known for its fresh fish. A great choice for the first night.
| Stay | Anker Brygge: charming, on the waterfront |
| Accessibility | Airplane (Widerøe), Bodø–Moskenes ferry, bus from Evenes |
| Tip | Go grocery shopping in Svolvaer. Stores become fewer and farther between the further west you drive. |
If you don’t want to stay in Svolvær, you don’t have to go far. A half-hour ferry ride away lies Skrova, a small island in the middle of the Vestfjord with about 200 residents, a sheltered harbor, and no road connection to the rest of the Lofoten Islands. It was once the largest fishing village in the archipelago. Fishing and whaling still set the pace of life here, and during skrei season, the boats are moored close together along the pier.
Because of its location, it rains less and the sun shines more often here than elsewhere in the Lofoten Islands. Combined with the white sandy beaches and turquoise waters, this has earned the island the nickname “Hawaii of the Lofoten Islands.” You can walk around the entire island in a day. Climb to Høgskrova, the highest point at just under 300 meters, for a view of the entire Lofoten Wall. Or follow the outdoor photo exhibits to the photo tunnel, which showcases a century of Skrova in pictures.
You don’t need a car here. A daily high-speed ferry runs from Bodø via Skrova to Svolvær, so you can also make the island your first stop on your trip.
You’ll stay at Heimbrygga, the island’s oldest still-operating brygga, right on the ferry terminal. Downstairs is a restaurant where the fish comes straight off the boat; upstairs are four simple rooms with a view of the water.
Everything you need to know about your stay and booking: Heimbrygga on Skrova
From Svolvaer, I drove to Reine in about 2.5 hours. Please note: The tunnel between Leknes and Napp is occasionally closed until December 2027 due to construction. We were lucky and were able to drive through it without any problems that evening.
Reine has about 300 residents who still make their living mainly from fishing; and you notice that as soon as you arrive. You can smell it. The skrei (a type of cod) hangs for months to dry on large wooden structures, preserved by the cold, salty sea air. No salt, no preservatives. A method that has worked for centuries.
Most fishermen’s cottages are red because that used to be the cheapest paint. Artisans lived in yellow houses. The wealthiest lived in white ones. You can still see that color code reflected in the village today.
I stayed at Reine Rorbuer: authentic fishermen’s cottages of various sizes and levels of luxury, right on the water. It has a wonderful restaurant and a friendly hostess.
We went on the hike to Reinebringen. From Reine Rorbuer, it’s about a kilometer’s walk to the trailhead. Then it’s uphill: about 2,000 steps, built by Nepalese stonemasons as sherpa steps. The climb takes about 1.5 hours. And it was well worth it.
Standing at the top, you’re left speechless. Fjords, islands, white beaches—and on a clear day, the view stretches all the way to the horizon. Here, you understand why people don’t want to leave this landscape.
We went on a wonderful kayaking trip among the fjords near Reine. I spotted an eagle. The weather was beautiful, and you get a completely different view of the mountains and the village from the water.
| Stay | Reine Rorbuer: Authentic Fishermen’s Cottages by the Water |
| Hike | Reinebringen: starting point within walking distance of Reine Rorbuer, about a 1.5-hour hike uphill |
| Kayak | On-site at Reine Rorbuer. Please make a reservation in advance |
| Please note | Leknes–Napp Tunnel: Check closure times before departure (through Dec. 2027) |
In the 1980s, Henningsvær was a fishing village in decline. Now, the abandoned buildings have been converted into galleries, restaurants, and creative workshops by Norwegians and adventurers from all over the world. It has a population of about 500.
It gets crowded in the summer. I was there in mid-April; just a handful of tourists, the galleries were open, and it was wonderful to wander around the little shops. And the famous soccer field on a rocky islet, with no one else in sight. That’s the difference a season makes.
Nearby, in Stamsund (about a 10-minute drive from Leknes), you’ll find Lofoten Wool. It’s a small shop that sells sheep’s wool dyed with natural plants. Workshops on plant-based wool dyeing and knitting are available upon request. The shop is open year-round. Note: There is also a Lofoten Wool shop in Henningsvaer.
And here’s the tip I was given: put your wool sweater in the snow instead of in the washing machine. That way, it’ll stay in good shape the longest. And it really works.
Villa Lofoten in Kvalnes is not what its name suggests. It’s not a villa. Rather, it’s a cluster of carefully restored fishermen’s cottages, restored with an eye for detail; preserved memories of the fishermen who once lived here, transformed into unique living spaces.
Upon arrival, we’re welcomed outside by a campfire and a light beer. The owner, Aaslaug—a well-known figure in the Norwegian cultural sector—tells us about the place and the surrounding area. Later that evening, we’re treated to an impressive Norwegian film about the history of the location where we’re spending the night. Afterward, the authenticity of the place becomes palpable in a way that no text can match.
I stayed at the farmhouse next to the Soleng farm. The view was spectacular. Together with Aaslaug, we went in search of truffle seaweed near Villa Lofoten. The restaurant serves local dishes (by reservation), prepared by Tor Edvin, who also happens to be an Oscar-nominated documentary filmmaker. That’s the kind of surprise you get here.
Kvalnes isn’t really suited for strenuous hikes or fast-paced day trips. This is the place to truly slow down. Bike along the coast. Go birdwatching. In winter, you can spot the long-tailed duck here, with its distinctive, almost surreal call. And you can see the razorbill here, too.
I would recommend staying here for at least 3 nights. That way, you’ll really get to experience the place instead of just driving right through it.
Villa Lofoten is a member of Hanen, the Norwegian quality network for rural tourism and local products, which has about 620 members throughout Norway. Culture, sustainability, and authenticity are the common threads that tie them all together. You can see it in everything.
| Stay | Villa Lofoten, Kvalnes |
| Buildings | The Saltery · The Steamery · The Fisherman’s Cabin · The Farmhouse |
| Restaurant | By reservation only – local ingredients |
| Recommended Stay | At least 3 nights |
| Books | Directly |
Everything you need to know about your stay and booking: Villa Lofoten in Kvalnes
Just a short distance from the famous Unstad Beach, Mariëlle and Hugo, a Dutch couple, run their organic goat farm. Together with their two sons, they make various types of cheese, many of which have won awards. They supply well-known restaurants in the region and even nationwide.
We had a cheese tasting, with homemade bread and butter. The fenugreek cheese was my favorite. I took a piece home with me. A lot of baby goats had just been born; we saw them in the barn. During the day, they go up the mountain to eat the delicious grass. You can really taste that in the cheese.
They have also set up a school garden in partnership with the local Montessori school, where children learn about the process from seed to plant. The berries and strawberries here have a particularly intense flavor thanks to the long hours of sunshine. Open Monday through Saturday starting in May/June. Cheese-making workshops and beer tastings are also available upon request.
We’re heading out with Jann from Lofoten-Activ. Jann is the go-to guy if you want to go sea kayaking. You can choose from half-day trips to 7-day sea kayaking excursions. Plus, they’re highly experienced guides if you want to go hiking, snowshoeing, or coasteering. It’s safer than going alone, and you’ll also learn a lot about the local culture.
| Best time to visit | April–June (spring) or September–October (fall) |
| Through road | E10 from Fiskebøl to Å: narrow, spectacular, allow plenty of space |
| Please note | The Leknes–Napp Tunnel will be closed intermittently through Dec. 2027 (check current times) |
| Airport | Leknes Airport (LKN) or Svolvær Airport (SVJ) – Widerøe |
| Ferry | Bodø–Moskenes (approx. 3.5 hours) |
| Public Transportation | reisnordland.no (bus); limited service outside the summer |
Yes. And I’d even go so far as to say: April is the best season. The roads are empty, the villages breathe, and the light is exceptionally long and golden. You experience the Lofoten as they’ve always been: fishing, drying fish, walking. The weather can be unpredictable, but that’s part of this landscape. And rain only makes the mountains more dramatic.
Busy. Really busy. In July and August, traffic on the E10 regularly comes to a standstill behind RVs. Accommodations are scarce and significantly more expensive. Summer is less suitable for Slow travel. Spring and fall are better times to visit.
Villa Lofoten is a cluster of restored historic fishing buildings in Kvalnes: a brine factory, a cod liver oil steaming facility, a fisherman’s hut, and a farmhouse. Owner Aaslaug has turned it into a cultural retreat, featuring films, storytelling, and a summer restaurant. Book direct. Everything you need to know about your stay and booking: Villa Lofoten in Kvalnes
Yes. Among others, Lofoten Gardsysteri in Unstad. Mariëlle and Hugo, a Dutch couple, make organic goat cheese that has won international awards. Tastings are available upon request, served with homemade bread and butter. The fenugreek cheese is highly recommended. Open Monday through Saturday starting in May.
Partly. Widerøe flies to Svolvær and Leknes. You can take a ferry from Bodø to Moskenes. Buses run along the E10, but service is limited outside the summer months. Remote locations like Villa Lofoten in Kvalnes are difficult to reach without a car; a rental car offers the most freedom.
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Laat je inspireren
Ben je op zoek naar de mooiste wandel- en fietsroutes? Of wil je informatie over reizen met de trein of advies voor de mooiste roadtrips door de natuur. Laat je inspireren voor je volgende reis in het groen; ideeën om je eigen reis te plannen of te kiezen voor een georganiseerde reis.
