Monte Amiata: A Road Trip Through a Hidden Gem in Tuscany

Monte Amiata is a somewhat lesser-known, mountainous region in Tuscany, but it’s so worth the visit. It’s a very fertile area situated on an extinct volcano. The summit of the mountain is at an elevation of about 1,740 meters. People also ski here in the winter.

But above all, it is a beautiful nature reserve—thanks in part to the volcanic soil, which makes it very fertile and rich in minerals. What’s more, the mountain is surrounded by eight very interesting and lesser-known villages. It boasts a rich history marked by many periods of foreign rule, as well as fantastic cuisine.

I discovered Monte Amiata and the sights of some of these authentic villages. Read more about my experiences and get the best tips for your road trip through Monte Amiata.

Montenero d’Orcia in Castel del Piano

Monte Amiata is the area between the Val di Chiana, the Val d’Orcia, and the Valle d’Ombrone in the Maremma. I started my trip in Montenero d’Orcia, which is part of the municipality of Castel del Piano. It’s not far from Rome and lies on the border with the Val d’Orcia.

I visited the organic farm “Azienda Le Vigne” and was able to watch the grape harvest. They produce organic wine and olive oil. At Le Vigne, wine is produced at an altitude of about 500 meters, including the Montecucco wine (which is very good but not very well known). In addition to the altitude, the area is particularly special for viticulture because of the rich, mineral-filled soil from the extinct volcano.

They also produce a special oil here from the “olivastro” (a brownish-green olive). Le Vigne also produces honey and nuts. At Terre di Chiara —Le Vigne’s tasting room—you can sample their organically produced wines and other products every day. They’ll tell you all about their organic products, and you can also help with the harvest; they offer “wellness forest meditation” and yoga.

In Castel del Piano, a visit to the historic center is well worth it. The annual Palio is held here in September.

In Montegiove (in the municipality of Castel del Piano), I visited another famous winery: Podere Borselli.

Poderi Borselli is an organic wine and olive oil producer just outside Castel del Piano. With a long family tradition and knowledge gained at the agricultural university, they now export their “new generation” of organic and fully sustainably produced wines all over the world. These include exceptional wines such as the Montecucco. Tastings are available by appointment.

Arcidosso, spiritual center

On to Arcidosso. A beautiful historic village with a unique Tibetan museum: the Museo di Arte e Cultura Orientale (MACO). Davide Lazzaretti was from Arcidosso (1834–1878); a spiritual leader—also known as the Prophet of Amiata—who found many followers among the farmers. On “Monte Labbro,” he had a community of followers consisting of about 80 families.

Adjacent to the MACO Museum , you’ll find a museum in Castello Aldobrandesco dedicated to Lazzaretti. From the castle’s tower , you’ll enjoy a stunning view of the surrounding villages of Monte Amiata. Open Wednesday through Sunday; closed for lunch. Another must-see museum in Arcidosso is the Galleria Museo Artereastra, whose central theme is art exploring emotions.

Arcidosso is known for its hazelnuts and hosts a number of hazelnut festivals. After being ruled by Siena, it came under the rule of the Medici of Florence in 1560.

Seggiano

Seggiano is one of the quietest villages in the Monte Amiata area.

Daniel Spoerri’s Garden

In Seggiano, you’ll find the Giardino di Daniel Spoerri. It’s a beautiful sculpture garden created by this Swiss sculptor, nestled in the heart of nature. You’ll find his own works there, as well as those of his artist friends. It’s definitely worth a visit. It also has a bar, a restaurant, and a few apartments.

Santa Fiora

I found Santa Fiora to be one of the most delightful surprises of Monte Amiata. It has only 2,400 residents today, but it was once an important region known as the County of Santa Fiora. The Queen of France was an aunt of the then-Countess of Santa Fiora.

By becoming a “smart working hub,” the local government is encouraging people to stay here for longer periods of time. One of Italy’s most beautiful villages (borghi più belli d’Italia), featuring a magnificent castle, a historic village center, and the Montecatino neighborhood with the Peschiera di Santa Fiore—a lovely little lake formed by the source of the Fiora River. The springs of Santa Fiora supply water to all of Tuscany.

I was given a tour by Luciano Luciani, a former council member of Santa Fiora

The adjacent Chiesa della Madonna della Neve stands out for its bright light and glass floor, through which you can see the source of the Fiora.

Restaurant recommendation in Santa Fiora: Il Barilotto (no website)

Guido Strazza, born in Santa Fiora and now 101 years old, is one of the last Futurists. His art is displayed all over the world (including in the Netherlands). He still lives and works in Santa Fiora.

Abbadia San Salvatore

A medieval town named after the abbey of the same name, one of the oldest in Tuscany, featuring a unique crypt with columns, arches, and cross vaults. This charming town is surrounded by beautiful forests and orchards and has a history of mercury mining.

Piancastagnaio

Piancastagnaio is surrounded by city walls that wind around the impressive Rocca Aldobrandesca. On August 18, the Palio delle Contrade takes place here, similar to those in Siena and Asti. In early November, the town hosts il Crastatone, a chestnut festival featuring a wide variety of chestnut products, markets, wine, and music.

Pigelleto Nature Reserve

A nature park covering about 860 hectares, with two remaining (inactive) mercury mines. It borders the village of Piancastagnaio, and its purpose is to preserve the white spruce, commonly known as the Pigello. The park is home to many birds (including birds of prey), roe deer, and fallow deer, and wolves have also been spotted here. Several hiking trails are available starting from Castell’Azzara.

Castell’Azzara

A small village with the first signs of settlement dating back to 1,000 B.C. The village was won by Bonifacio degli Aldobrandeschi in a game of dice. In July, the village hosts a summer truffle festival. The area surrounding the village has always held a certain importance throughout the centuries. It is surrounded by beautiful nature and, due to the closure of the mines, now has only a handful of residents. A magnificent fortress (built by the Aldobrandeschi), the historic center, and the Via Francigena that runs through it make it truly worth a visit.

Restaurant Recommendation in Castell’Azzara: La Tana dell’Orso

Roccalbegna

The tour continues to Roccalbegna. This beautiful little village is built against a cliff. I climbed the cliff—a short, challenging climb, but with a fantastic view of the village and the surrounding Amiata area. You can easily find the path up through the historic center.

Monte Labbro: A Magical Place

From Roccalbegna, we paid a visit to Monte Labbro. It is a nature reserve in the municipality of Arcidosso covering no less than 650 hectares. The summit is 1,190 meters high. Here you’ll find Turkish oaks, chestnut trees, elms, hazel trees, and maples.

Many wild animals also live here: wildcats, skunks, stone martens, weasels, and badgers. But there are also various species of eagles, falcons, and buzzards. In addition to birds of prey, the area is home to birds such as sparrows, rock thrushes, and wheatears. Within the nature reserve, a 3-hour hiking trail leads to the summit of Monte Labbro. It’s a sort of mystical pilgrimage in the footsteps of the prophet Lazzaretti.

At the foot of Monte Labbro, there is still a spiritual center with a temple that you can visit and, if you’d like, participate in retreats, yoga, and meditation activities. In addition to Monte Labbro, the entire Monte Amiata region is a true Slow travel destination: beautiful nature, tranquility, and a touch of spirituality here and there.

From the barren, rocky summit of Monte Labbro, you have a magnificent view of the entire valley, Monte Amiata, and the ruins of the “Giurisdavidica Tower”: a place of worship from the early twentieth century, built by followers of David Lazzaretti.

If you want to drive to the top of the mountain, it’s best to park your car at the bottom or halfway up. The road to the top is not easily passable in a regular car.

Monte Amiata on the map