Central Norway: 7 Days of Snow, Silence, and Unexpected Adventure

There is a side of Norway that most travelers never see. Not the fjords near Bergen, not the famous Lofoten Islands, but the vast, quiet heart of the country. Nestled between Oppdal in the north and Lillehammer in the south, three national parks lie waiting in relative obscurity: Rondane, Dovrefjell, and Jotunheimen. We visited this area at the end of the long Norwegian winter and returned with frozen eyelashes, tired muscles, and travel memories we won’t soon forget.

This tour through central Norway combines a short stop in Oslo with an authentic lodge on the outskirts of Rondane, snowshoeing through two national parks, backcountry skiing, a musk ox hunt, and a day of husky sledding in Jotunheimen. Active, unspoiled, and far from the tourist hotspots—exactly the way we like it.

Read more here about our 8-day self-guided trek through Rondane and Dovre with a local expert

A Brief Overview of the Route Through Central Norway

The trip takes you north from Oslo to the Rondane Valley, then on to Dovrefjell, and finally to the foothills of Jotunheimen. Total driving distance: approximately 600 kilometers, spread over seven days. A 4WD or hybrid SUV is not a luxury but a necessity: the mountain passes are unpredictable during the winter and are sometimes closed.

Day 1: Arrival in Oslo

Arriving at Gardermoen in the afternoon, Oslo is the logical first stop. From the airport, you can reach the city in less than an hour. We stayed at the Saga Hotel, a boutique hotel just west of downtown (within walking distance or easily accessible by tram). It’s not big, not crowded, and that fits perfectly with the vibe of this trip.

Day 2: Oslo at Your Own Pace

There’s no need to rush in Oslo. We decided to explore on foot and let the city unfold before us. From Vigeland Park, with its impressive collection of sculptures by Gustav Vigeland, to the creative neighborhood of Grünerløkka, and then on to the waterfront.

A stroll through the city will also immediately introduce you to some of its smaller, more intimate spots, such as the Telthusbakken: a winding little street lined with old wooden houses that overlook the city. Be sure to sample the delicious bread and coffee at one of the many spots in Grünnerløkka.

Day 3: North to Rondane River Lodge

After two days in the city, it’s time to really hit the road. The destination is Rondane River Lodge: a small-scale lodge with cabins and rooms in a quiet valley next to Rondane National Park, about a four-hour drive from Oslo. The lodge is run by a Belgian family, is Green Key certified, and has sustainability deeply woven into its DNA—right down to the way breakfast is served: you fill out your order form the night before so that nothing goes to waste.

Here, nature sets the pace. That might feel a little strange at first. After a day or two, though, it’s exactly the feeling you came here for.

Day 4: First snowshoe hike

We found out today that the weather was once again calling the shots. Due to strong winds and deep snow, the mountain pass leading to our activity was closed. So it was a good thing we had some flexibility in our schedule. That meant we could spend the day however we wanted. On the lodge’s advice, we stayed in our own valley.

Less than a 5-minute drive from the lodge is the start of a hike to the summit of Sore Vola. From there, you’ll have a beautiful view of the valley and the Atna River.

Day 5: Backcountry skiing to Mount Pika

A 9-kilometer hike to the summit of Mount Pika begins a ten-minute drive from the lodge. We aren’t experienced skiers, and we certainly felt it. But that wasn’t the only thing that made this day challenging. At the top of the mountain, the weather took a turn for the worse. Wind, visibility that vanished, and snow blowing horizontally.

And yet: the view in every direction was phenomenal. And halfway down the descent, we saw a rare herd of wild reindeer roaming the landscape. A moment you don’t plan for—and that makes it all the more unforgettable.

Day 6: Spotting musk oxen in Dovrefjell

No rest day, but another strenuous physical activity. We drove along the beautiful route toward Hjerkinn (be sure to make a few stops along the way!), from where we (together with our guide) set out on our second snowshoe hike. This time in the slightly better-known Dovrefjell National Park.

Our target was the musk ox. But that turned out to be no easy task in this vast area. After two hours of climbing, we spotted three musk oxen in the very distance. Not close enough for a perfect portrait, but close enough to realize just how remarkable it is that these animals are still here at all. The view, however, was just as remarkable. Although we were able to make part of the descent without snowshoes, the extremely strong wind literally blew us off our feet.

Day 7: Dog Sledding in Jotunheimen

On the seventh day, a one-and-a-half-hour drive took us to Randsverk, on the edge of Jotunheimen National Park. Here, about forty huskies await visitors at Jotunheimen Husky Lodge—a place where the staff clearly loves the dogs. The welcome was personal, and the dog-sled tour through the snow-covered landscape was breathtaking.

It wasn’t just the ride itself that exceeded our expectations. The whole experience—harnessing the dogs, the sound of the sled gliding over the snow, the trees whizzing by—felt like the perfect finale to a week full of physical and mental experiences.

We left our Belgian hosts feeling more than satisfied, before heading home via the mountain pass.

Practical Information for a Tour of Central Norway in Norway

How do you get there?

• Flights: Transavia, SAS, and KLM offer direct flights to Oslo Gardermoen from the Netherlands several times a week.
• Car rental: A 4WD or hybrid SUV is highly recommended in the winter, especially as you head north. Sixt is located right below the arrivals hall (convenient and a good experience). Ask for a winter package that includes snow chains.
• Driving: Norwegian roads are generally well-maintained, but be sure to check the weather reports at vegvesen.no. There are toll roads; rental cars are usually equipped with a system that charges the toll retroactively.
• Speed: Stick to the speed limits. Traffic fines in Norway are steep.

When are you leaving?

Norway is a great place to visit all year round. The end of winter (February through mid-April) offers the best combination: plenty of snow in the mountains, longer days than in December and January, and quieter roads than during peak season. It’s ideal if you want to be active without the crowds.

Where are you staying?

• Oslo: Saga Hotel. A boutique hotel in a quiet location, a great base for a city break.
• Rondane: Rondane River Lodge. Small-scale, Green Key-certified, run by a Belgian family with extensive knowledge of the area. Book directly through the lodge.
• Jotunheimen area: Jotunheimen Husky Lodge in Randsverk, if you want to spend a night on the edge of the park.

Helpful Tips for the Road

• Fueling: There are more than enough gas stations in the area we visited. Our rule of thumb is: fill up when the tank is half full. That way, you’ll never run into unexpected problems.
• Groceries: About ten minutes from Rondane River Lodge, you’ll find a Joker supermarket for your daily shopping.
• Lunch: Rondane River Lodge gives you the option to order bread for lunch by 9:00 p.m. the night before. It comes from the nearby bakery, Elt Bakeri. It’s excellent!

Frequently Asked Questions About a Winter Trip to Central Norway

Is Central Norway suitable for inexperienced winter hikers in Norway?

Yes, as long as you bring the right gear and get advice from the locals. Snowshoe hikes start at the lodge and are suitable for beginners. Backcountry skiing requires more experience: never go without a guide.

What are the three national parks in this area?

Rondane (Norway’s oldest national park, established in 1962), Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella (known for its musk oxen) and Jotunheimen (home to Scandinavia’s highest mountains, including Galdhøpiggen at 2,469 meters). Each park has its own character and level of accessibility.

Can you spot musk oxen in Dovrefjell?

Yes, but it takes patience, stamina, and a bit of luck. The tours are led by local guides who know the best routes. There’s never a guarantee—but that’s exactly what makes wildlife so special.

How dangerous are Norwegian winter roads?

The roads are generally in good condition, but mountain passes may be closed unexpectedly due to extreme snow or wind. Always check vegvesen.no for the most up-to-date information. A 4WD and winter tires are not overkill.

Road Trip Through Central Norway on the Map