Western Norway: Ålesund, fjords, and a surprising coastline

When taking a road trip through Norway, we often want to see as much as possible. And that’s a shame. Western Norway along the coast near Ålesund is therefore somewhat of a forgotten area, because it’s not on the “standard” road trip route. The Møre og Romsdal region in western Norway is a rugged and rich part of Norway—and thus a hidden gem. Read about the week-long road trip we took in late March and our many tips for this beautiful area.

Day 1: Ålesund

Ålesund is a surprisingly charming little town in western Norway. It was rebuilt entirely in the Art Nouveau style after a fire in 1904 that destroyed the entire city center. Read more about Ålesund here.

Day 2: A day of hiking on Runde, the bird island

It takes about 2 hours to drive from Ålesund to Runde.

If you visit Runde between April and August, you have a good chance of seeing puffins nesting. The island is easily accessible by car (via a bridge) and has an interesting visitor and research center. Read all about the bird island of Runde here.

Horisont in Fosnavåg

It takes about 30 minutes to drive from Runde to Fosnavåg.

Before our visit to Runde, we spent the night in Fosnavåg, in the municipality of Herøy. It’s just under half an hour’s drive from Runde. A must-visit in Fosnavåg is the Horisont restaurant, which features a beautiful art gallery. From Fosnavåg, you can drive (or take the boat) to the restaurant for lunch or dinner (reservations required).

Rita from Ecuador is the one in charge here. Her father often took her out on his fishing boat, and sailing remains her great passion. Another passion of hers is collecting art. You’ll find a beautiful collection of works by Norwegian and other artists here. All the art pieces have a personal connection to her own life story.

Day 3: Herøy Coastal Museum and Cycling in Larsnes

It takes about 15 minutes by car to get from Fosnavåg to the Herøy Coastal Museum.

Herøy is a beautiful archipelago in western Norway. It’s a wonderful area for biking or kayaking, by the way. Part of the EuroVelo route along the Norwegian coast also runs through here.

Most of the islands are connected by bridges. It is a region with a rich history, largely due to fishing. Many artifacts from the Ice Age, the Bronze Age, and the Viking Age (early Middle Ages) have been found there.

We visited the Herøy Coastal Museum. The oldest part of the museum dates back to 1500, and the museum’s “living room” was built around 1800. You can visit the museum, stop by the adjacent café, and take a walk around the island. The pilgrimage route to Trondheim runs along the coast here. The museum is open during the summer months. The rest of the year, it’s open by request.

Kraengard

We’ll continue on and have lunch at Kraengard in Larsnes. You can also stay overnight here in Tiny houses with beautiful views of the sea. From here, in addition to beautiful bike routes, there are also great hiking trails, and you can easily reach the Geirangerfjord and the Loen Skylift.

Day 3: The stairs at Hakkalevaer

It takes about 40 minutes to get from Larsnes to Hakkalestranda (including the ferry).

We’re staying at Hakkalevaer. Sissel and Peter, an inspiring couple of mountaineers, run several comfortable vacation homes right by the sea. The homes have Norwegian eco-lighthouse certification. Some guests come here specifically when there’s a storm, because you have a stunning view of the sea. When the weather is better, you can see the Northern Lights.

Sissel and Peter have conquered many mountains around the world (the 7 Summits), and now they’re working to make their own mountain accessible: the Hakkalevaer stairs.

We’re hiking up the mountain with them along the approximately 1,000 steps that have been installed so far. Besides being a beautiful route, it’s fairly easy to hike. They’re working with sherpas to complete the route to the summit. From there, you have a magnificent view of the coast (much quieter than Preikestolen). You can “buy” a step to support the project. A boulder will then be placed next to the step with a text or drawing of your choice.

Hakkalevaer is a wonderful place to unwind. The area offers many marked hiking trails and is perfect for biking. Sissel and Peter are happy to help you find the most beautiful spots in the area. Nearby, you’ll also find Hakallegarden Farm, an alpaca farm.

You’re about 2 hours from Ålesund and 1 hour from Runde.

Day 4: The Polar Museum in Brandal – Hareid

The trip from Hakallevaer to Brandal takes about 1 hour, including the ferry from Åram to Larsnes

We continue on to Brandal, on the island of Hareidlandet. The Ishavsmuseet consists of two parts: in a warehouse stands an old boat that was used for seal hunting (the Aarvak from 1912), and in the museum itself, the story of the history of seal hunting in Norway is told across three floors. It was a bit hard for me to take in at first, because I, too, protested against seal hunting in the 1980s. The expert guide’s explanation places the story in the context of Norwegian history and culture. It is therefore well worth visiting the museum with a guide. Opening Hours and Information for Ishavsmuseet. We’re taking the ferry back to Ålesund.

About 5 kilometers from Brandal is Kvidneset, a beautiful area for hiking. There’s still a World War II fort here.

Day 5: Hjorundfjord or Geirangerfjord: Mission Impossible

From Ålesund, we took the boat to the Geirangerfjord. It was a beautiful trip, especially since it was still quiet early in the season. The Geirangerfjord is the most famous fjord in western Norway and, as a result, also the most visited. Fortunately, it was still quiet in late March, and I didn’t see any cruise ships.

Flydalsjuvet, near the town of Geiranger, offers a stunning panoramic view of the fjord. The visitor center in Geiranger is also definitely worth a visit. You’ll learn about how the fjords were formed and how people have lived there over the centuries. From Geiranger, there’s also a beautiful hiking trail, the Fosseråsa.

We’ll head back from Geiranger to Hellesylt on a RIB boat (spectacular). Hellesylt, on the Geirangerfjord, is where scenes from *Mission: Impossible* starring Tom Cruise were filmed. This is where he rode his motorcycle down the mountain (and not in the Alps, as the movie might lead you to believe)!

Hjorundfjord, a hidden gem in western Norway

From Ålesund, you can also easily take a boat to the Hjorundfjord. It’s a beautiful and less touristy alternative—and, according to the locals, even more beautiful. It’s a stunning fjord with charming villages like Trandal and Øye. The Hjorundfjord splits in two, and the longest section continues on to Øye, home to the famous and authentic Union Hotel Øye. It’s definitely worth a visit!

Trandal and Øye

The village of Trandal has 11 residents and one restaurant. So it’s nice and quiet. One of the really fun things about Trandal is the spectacular swing where you practically swing right over the fjord.

From Ålesund, you can take a boat to Hjorundfjord during the summer months. This is the high-speed ferry from Ålesund to Øye, which runs several times a day. But you can also get there by car and ferry, and there are buses as well.

Day 6: Through the Norangsdal Valley to Rekkedal: the Queen’s Route

The drive from Hellesylt to Rekkedal takes about 1 hour, including the ferry to Rekkedal

From Hellesylt, you’ll drive through the beautiful Norangsdal toward Rekkedal. The Norangsdal is one of the narrowest valleys in western Norway that you can drive through. The scenery is breathtaking, with a stunning mix of lakes, meadows, forests, and mountains. This route is also known as the “Queen’s Route” after the King and Queen of Norway celebrated their silver wedding anniversary here.

We’ll continue on the (free) Leknes-Sabøe ferry to Rekkedal. Famous movies have been filmed here as well: *Black Widow*, starring Scarlett Johansson.

We paid a visit to Guesthouse Rekkedal. You can stay overnight here and enjoy a delicious dinner. It’s a sort of open-air museum run by the 20th (!) generation of the family, offering several lodging options. The local dishes are prepared and served with passion. In winter, it’s the perfect base for your ski vacation. There are plenty of skiing options in the area.

We’ll take the Festoy-Solavag ferry back to Ålesund and enjoy a few more days in this wonderful city.

Road Trip Through Western Norway on a Map