Vitoria-Gasteiz may not be the first place that comes to mind when you think of the Basque Country in northern Spain. But this green city, full of charm, history, and pintxos, surprised me in every way.
I visited Vitoria-Gasteiz, the somewhat lesser-known capital of the Spanish Basque Country, in June. San Sebastián and Bilbao are the better-known cities in this region, but the “green capital” is relatively unknown. And what a surprise. The city isn’t a tourist magnet, but that’s precisely what makes it so authentic. It’s a place where nature, culture, and gastronomy come together in perfect harmony.
The landscape is both hilly and expansive. And, because it rains regularly here, it’s green—very green. I had beautiful weather in June, by the way. The locals speak both Spanish and Basque, and you’ll see both languages on the signs as well. Not many people speak English yet, but they’re friendly and helpful, so you can get by just fine with gestures and body language.
Vitoria’s charm lies in its blend of medieval tranquility and modern surprises. “Casco Viejo,” the old town, is situated on a hill and can be reached via… escalators! It’s quite remarkable to see modern architecture nestled among centuries-old stones.
A small section of the 11th-century city wall still stands. Within the walls lies the old town, “La Almendra Medieval” (the medieval almond). Here, the old and the new come together: the neighborhood is a maze of narrow streets and hidden squares.
One of the highlights is the Santa Maria Cathedral. You literally step back in time on the underground tour, which ends with a ride in the elevator to the rooftop terrace—offering panoramic views that are simply magical at sunset.
There’s a market at the Plaza de España every Sunday. It’s also a great place to shop, with lots of local shops and designers.
Vitoria-Gasteiz was named the European Green Capital in 2012—and rightly so. The city has a lot of green space. Even the convention center is covered in greenery.
In addition, the “Green Ring” encircles the city via walking and biking trails. It is a network of six Nature reserves, connected by biking and walking trails. The trails are mostly flat and marked with wooden posts bearing green dots. The entire network is about 30 km long.
I highly recommend visiting the Salburua Wetlands park and marshland area, east of the city. I cycled through it. The forests are full of oaks, beeches, and pines. You can also spot wild boars, birds of prey, and roe deer. For birdwatchers, there are observation huts. Don’t forget your binoculars! The route is 11 km long.
You can get here by bike from Vitoria-Gasteiz. You can explore the park on foot or by bike. If you don’t have a bike, take the tram, which stops near the park.
Tip: Rent an e-bike from Guiartu, run by Arturo Martinez—great service and easy to arrange. You can also take the tram to the starting point.
In the Basque Country, eating is a celebration. Start the evening with pintxos—small bites on baguette slices—served in small bars alongside local wines and cider. Ingredients like anchovies, squid ink, grilled meat, seafood, and creamy cheesecake are favorites.
Both in the afternoon and in the evening, locals gather together in a cozy atmosphere, enjoying a glass of Rioja wine. La Rioja, specifically the northern part known as Rioja Alavesa, borders the Basque Country. This lends a unique Basque character to the wine experience. Cider is also widely consumed there. It is an important cultural and culinary product. This (low-alcohol) beverage is made from apples.
Places to Have Lunch
Places to Dine
Gorbeia Nature Park is the largest nature park in the Basque Country. It’s located about 20 km northwest of Vitoria. The easiest way to get there is by car. There are several hiking trails of varying lengths and difficulty levels.
I recommend Route 9 (5.82 km). It’s a beautiful, green wooded area with stunning views. Be sure to wear sturdy shoes—the trails can get a bit muddy. Tip: Wikilock—an app for hiking trails.
Looking for authentic experiences? From Vitoria-Gasteiz, I took three wonderful day trips that were about a half-hour drive away.
Valle Salando de Anana is an active salt-mining valley. It has existed for about 7,000 years. You can book a guided tour of the valley online. They also offer workshops and salt tastings. If you’re in the mood to relax, head to the wellness center to soak your feet and hands in the saltwater—it’s wonderful, and the view is beautiful. The salt harvested here is used by many Michelin-starred restaurants.
Note: There may not always be much salt on the road; it depends on the weather conditions. So if it has rained, there won’t be much salt visible.
Blanka Gómez de Segura is a leading ceramic artist from Álava and has been the director of the Museo de Alfareria Vasca in Ollerias since 1993.
In addition to visiting the museum, you can take a ceramics workshop or class. In her studio, Blanka is working on new pieces. You can also purchase them. Blanka explores clay materials, historical glazes, and decorative techniques; she revives old forms and reproduces archaeological pieces.
Fun fact: This is the only potter’s workshop still in operation in the Basque countryside, with centuries-old kilns.
Cheese lovers will enjoy a visit to Iruri in Legutio. Maider and her husband work together on the farm. They have over 100 sheep.
Maider attended sheep farming school to learn the trade. Cheese-making begins with milking the sheep. Once the cheese is made, it is stored in the freezer for about two months. You can also buy cheese here. Many locals shop here, as do many restaurants. In addition to cheese, they also sell meat and honey.
What makes Vitoria-Gasteiz so special is its balance. You have peace and nature, but also culture and a vibrant atmosphere. The squares come alive in the evening, people greet you on the street, and you can still count the tourists on one hand. Here, you truly live among the locals.
Cultural festivals:
Vitoria, also known as “Nueva Victoria,” was founded in 1181 on the site of an older settlement called Gasteiz. Gasteiz was a small, medieval Basque village. It was located on the hill where the old town,“Casco Viejo,” now stands.
Today, Vitoria-Gasteiz is the official name, reflecting its dual cultural and historical heritage. Spanish speakers often use the name Vitoria, while Basque speakers use the name Gasteiz.
Public transportation in Vitoria-Gasteiz is well organized. It is focused on sustainability and accessibility. The trams are fully electric, as are most of the buses. They produce no direct emissions and are very quiet.
You can take the bus to travel to surrounding areas. You can buy a single-ride ticket or a BAT Card. This is a type of discounted public transit pass for the whole family (up to 10 people); you can recharge it at vending machines. The pass can be used until the balance runs out and is valid for both trams and buses.
Green Cities tip: There is a train connection between San Sebastián and Vitoria-Gasteiz.
Public transportation in Vitoria-Gasteiz is fully electric: trams and buses are emission-free.
From the Netherlands, it’s about 1,380 km to Vitoria-Gasteiz. You can also fly to Bilbao. From Bilbao, you can reach the heart of Vitoria-Gasteiz (Álava province) in an hour. There’s also a bus service from Bilbao. Soon, you’ll be able to travel there by train as well, thanks to a new rail line.
A centrally located hotel with spacious, bright rooms and nice bathrooms. Welcoming and friendly. Every morning, you can enjoy breakfast at the café next to the hotel—a smart and comfortable way to start the day.
Vitoria Gasteiz is the perfect destination if you love conscious travel, authenticity, and a touch of adventure. A place that slowly but surely steals your heart—welcome to the green Basque Country.
Read more about other eco-friendly city trips here.
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