You step off the boat, and within ten steps you’ve forgotten all about the Alps. Palm trees, bamboo, giant ferns, a Japanese banana plant. On a tiny island of less than three hectares in the middle of Lake Maggiore, you feel as if you’re in the subtropics. And yet you’re still right here in Switzerland. The Isole di Brissago are proof that the southern part of the country follows its own climate rules.
I took the boat from Ascona and spent a morning there among plants from five continents. It’s not wild nature; it’s a carefully landscaped botanical garden with a surprisingly eccentric history; but as a green interlude on your trip through Ticino , it’s hard to pass up.
The Isole di Brissago consist of two islands. The larger one, Isola Grande (also known as San Pancrazio), is the main attraction: more than 1,700 plant species from all over the world grow here on just 2.5 hectares, made possible by the lake’s mild microclimate. The smaller island, Isola Piccola, is a protected nature reserve and not accessible to the public; among other things, it contains the ruins of an old church with medieval frescoes.
For a long time, they were uninhabited rocks. That changed in 1885, when Russian Baroness Antoinette de Saint Léger bought the islands and turned them into a retreat for artists, writers, and musicians. She transformed the largest island into an exotic garden.
In 1927, the Hamburg businessman Max Emden took over; he had the palazzo, the pier, and a “Roman bath” built and further expanded the plant collection. Since the canton of Ticino took over the islands in 1949, the garden has been open to the public. Today, it is part of the“Gardens of Switzerland” network, and the island is listed on the federal register of Swiss heritage sites of national importance.
The gardens of the Isole di Brissago are organized by region: the Mediterranean, subtropical Asia (China, Korea, Japan), southern Africa, North, Central, and South America, and Australia, along with a few islands in Oceania. You’ll stroll past azaleas, rhododendrons, and hundreds of camellias, under bamboo and palm trees, past a ginkgo and a Japanese banana tree. In the spring, the camellias and azaleas are at their most beautiful; in the summer, the garden is lush and green.
Want to learn more about edible plants in Ticino? Then read our article about Intragna and Milo Bissegger.
You can only reach the islands by water. From the mainland, boats depart from Ascona, Locarno, Brissago, and Porto Ronco, among other places; the crossing is short. The garden is open from April through November. You don’t need a car: you’ll travel by train and boat, just as we describe in our story “By Train to Ticino.”
Plan on spending half a day there. On Isola Grande, you can grab a bite to eat or a drink in the historic palazzo, with a view of the water. Combine your visit with a day in Ascona, which is just a stone’s throw away. The boat departs practically right outside the door. If you visit outside of peak season, you’ll have the trails mostly to yourself. I was there in early June, and there were only a handful of visitors.
Tip: Visit in the spring to see the camellias and azaleas in bloom, or during the shoulder seasons for a more peaceful experience. Be sure to check the boat schedules in advance, as boats run less frequently outside of peak season.
| Location | In Lake Maggiore, just off the coast near Brissago (Canton of Ticino, Switzerland) |
| Islands | Isola Grande (botanical garden, open to the public) and Isola Piccola (nature reserve, closed) |
| Plant Species | More than 1,700 on 2.5 hectares, from five continents |
| Open | April through November |
| Accessibility | Accessible only by boat from Ascona, Locarno, Brissago, Porto Ronco, and other locations; no car needed |
| Best time | Spring is for blooming; the off-season is for rest |
| Pair with | A Day in Ascona |
The Brissago Islands are the botanical garden of the canton of Ticino, located on Lake Maggiore. On the largest island, Isola Grande, more than 1,700 plant species from all over the world thrive, thanks to the lake’s mild microclimate.
By boat only. Boats depart from the mainland, including from Ascona, Locarno, Brissago, and Porto Ronco; the crossing is short. You don’t need a car.
The botanical garden is open from April through November. Spring is the best time to see the camellias and azaleas in bloom; outside of peak season, it’s quieter there.
Yes, there is a restaurant in the historic palazzo on Isola Grande, with a view of the lake.
No. Only Isola Grande, with its botanical garden, is open to the public. Isola Piccola is a protected nature reserve and closed to the public.
With a passion for travel and photography and over 30 years of experience in the travel industry, I love to share my special nature travel tips. Travel is wonderful and important, you meet new people and cultures and it opens your view of the world.
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