Above the river, griffon vultures circle with a wingspan of over two and a half meters. Down below, someone is panning for gold in a tributary. And on the riverbank, a couple orders a gin and tonic, while the children from the campground next door whiz across the water on a zip line. Welcome to the Tagus River basin, between Mação and Belver.
This region in central Portugal, on the border with Alentejo, is off the radar for most tourists. Unfairly so. Here you’ll find river beaches with crystal-clear water, marked hiking trails past water mills and waterfalls, medieval castles perched high above the river, and village restaurants where the fishermen themselves cook the catch. Lisbon is an hour and a half drive away.
Note: The travel times in this article are calculated from Moinho da Fadagosa, just outside Mação.
The Portuguese have a word for a swimming spot along a river: praia fluvial. In this region, they’re everywhere. The larger ones have a small bar, restrooms, and sometimes canoes for rent in the summer. Outside of that, you often have them all to yourself.
It’s the most famous river beach in the region—and for good reason. You’re right on the Tagus River with a view of Belver Castle across the way, and the beach restaurant serves tapas. It’s a 25-minute drive, but it’s nicer to walk from Belver: cross the bridge and follow the promenade, and you’ll be there in less than an hour. Then you’ll really have earned that ice cream.
A lively beach next to a campground, with a bar, canoes for rent, and a cable car across the water (ask at the bar if it’s open). It can get crowded during peak season. Combine your visit with the PR1 hiking trail, which passes by here, and enjoy lunch in the village.
While Alamal and Ortiga are located on the Tagus River, Carvoeiro sits high in the hills. That makes a difference of a few degrees on really hot days. The beach is beautifully landscaped with little bridges, a bar, and a barbecue area. The road leading there feels like a drive to the end of the world. Keep driving anyway—it’s worth it.
A small waterfall at the foot of a massive rock face, with birds of prey circling overhead. It’s hard to find, which is exactly why you’ll often have it all to yourself. Bring a picnic and your swimsuit.
Where the Aziral and the Ribeira das Eiras meet, at the foot of the hill where the windmill stands, there is a small beach where the water is deep enough for swimming all year round. It’s a 150-meter walk from the windmill for guests staying there.
The municipality of Mação has established a network of marked hiking trails, known as the Rotas de Mação. You can recognize them by their yellow-and-red markings and the code PR (pequena rota, short route).
A 16-kilometer loop connecting Belver, Praia do Alamal, and Ortiga. Some sections are quite challenging, but you’ll be rewarded with views of the Tagus River, a castle, two river beaches, and a few bars. Not a bad trade-off. If you’d prefer a shorter hike, just walk the section from Belver to Alamal and back.
The entire loop is about ten kilometers; the southern section is a little more than half that distance. You’ll walk along forest trails to an azenha—a watermill perched on a steep rock face—and past the levadas, the small canals that carry water to the mill. The highlight is the Poço das Talhas: a series of natural pools and small waterfalls that the stream has carved out of the rock in the shape of cauldrons.
The trail is considered easy, but it does have a few steep sections, so be sure to wear sturdy shoes. If you just want to see the mill and the waterfalls, it’s a 20-minute walk from the village of Queixoperra.
If you visit on the weekend, the mill might be running, and you can buy cornmeal. The recipe for broa, the traditional cornbread, is posted on the wall in the little museum.
A short but steep climb takes you to a Neolithic defensive fort, 250 meters above sea level. Nothing remains of the fort itself except for the rocks on which it stood. The view of the Eiras, Aziral, and Caratão rivers as they converge is all the more impressive, especially at sunset.
Since the 1940s, archaeologists have found items here including swords, arrowheads, and goldsmiths’ tools. These finds are on display at the Museu de Arte Pré-Histórica in Mação. The name Caratão is related to “carat,” and people still search for gold along the riverbanks.
Boat tour on the Tagus. From Praia do Alamal, a skipper will take you on a two-hour cruise along a stretch of the river that’s virtually inaccessible by land. You’ll see colonies of griffon vultures on the cliffs, the remains of a long-forgotten railroad line, and a landscape where hardly anything has been built. If you speak Portuguese, you’ll get the stories thrown in for free. If not, just sitting back and relaxing is a great plan, too.
Canoeing near Constância. In Constância, the Zêzere flows into the Tagus. Here you can rent canoes and paddle a stretch of the river—for example, with NaturZ.
Wildlife spotting. Otters, turtles, and crayfish live along the rivers. Kingfishers dart across the water, and in the evening you can hear tawny owls and nightingales. Wild boars are plentiful, though you rarely see them. Birdwatchers can visit a permanent bird-watching hide on the Tagus.
A white village nestled against a hill, crowned by a late 12th-century castle and offering a sweeping view of the Tagus River. At the weaving museum, the Núcleo Museológico das Mantas e Tapeçarias, you can try your hand at a traditional loom. The castle and the museum are closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.
A quiet little town where the Zêzere and Tagus rivers meet, with a river beach and gardens dedicated to the poet Luís de Camões, who is said to have once lived here. Ten minutes away is the Parque Ambiental de Santa Margarida, featuring hiking trails, red squirrels, and a butterfly house. Don’t miss the queijinhos do céu, a local treat that tastes even better than it sounds.
The nearest major city. The old town, with its castle and gardens, sits atop a hill, while the newer part of town lies below. It’s a great place to enjoy coffee and pastries in a small square. Keep in mind that shops close for a few hours around lunchtime and don’t reopen on Saturday afternoons.
A charming little town by the river, with a park and a square where you can spend hours people-watching. Perched above it is the Convento de Cristo, the former headquarters of the Knights Templar and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Set aside at least half a day to explore it.
Castelo de Vide is a fortified town near the Spanish border, with a maze of cobblestone streets and a rich Jewish history that you can explore in the medieval synagogue. The spring water is known for its purity, so bring a bottle to fill up. Fifteen minutes away lies Marvão, a castle village perched on a rocky outcrop, and in between lies Portagem, with a natural swimming pool in the river.
Casa Cerro da Correia in Manteigas in the Serra da Estrela is less than a 2-hour drive away.
The capital of the northern Alentejo isn’t the most beautiful city in Portugal, but it is situated in the heart of a fine wine region. The Guy Fino Tapestry Museum (Museu de Tapeçaria Guy Fino) can turn even the biggest cynic into a tapestry lover.
Casa Anadia near Abrantes. Tucked away behind an industrial park lies an estate dating back to the 14th century, where olive oil has been produced since the 18th century. Since 2022, you can take a guided tour of the house, gardens, chapel, and museum, concluding with an olive oil tasting. Reservations required.
Wine from Alentejo. There are some interesting wineries around Portalegre. Guests at Moinho da Fadagosa can have owner Simon—who is a wine expert himself—arrange a visit.
Eat like the locals. Here are a few spots that top the lists of local foodies:
The Centro Ciência Viva da Floresta in Proença-a-Nova focuses on the role of trees and forests in Portugal. It’s designed to be interactive, presented mostly in English and Portuguese, and enjoyable for adults.
Highlight: the real helicopter simulator used to train firefighting helicopter pilots. Afterward, you can look out from the café over a pond and the small airfield next to it, where paragliders take off.
Day 1: Belver and the Tagus: In the morning, visit the castle and the weaving museum in Belver, then walk to Praia do Alamal for lunch and a swim. In the afternoon, take a boat tour past the vulture colonies.
Day 2: Watermills and Gold: Hike the PR5 trail near Queixoperra, passing the watermill and the Poço das Talhas. Spend the afternoon by the river at Praia Fluvial do Carvoeiro. Watch the sunset at Castelo Velho do Caratão.
Day 3: Templars and canoes: morning visit to the Convento de Cristo in Tomar; afternoon canoeing in Constância, followed by queijinhos do céu as a treat.
Spring (April through June) and fall (September through November) are the best times for hiking: the temperature is pleasant, the hillsides are ablaze with color, and you’ll have the trails mostly to yourself. The river water is warmest from June through September. In July and August, temperatures in the interior rise significantly, and the larger river beaches get crowded on weekends. During this time, opt for the quieter spots in the hills.
By car: From Lisbon, take the A1 and A23 to reach Mação in about an hour and a half. A car is handy, as many river beaches and hiking trails aren’t accessible by public transportation.
By train: The railway line along the Tagus River (Linha da Beira Baixa) stops at Abrantes and Belver, among other places. So you can take the train from Lisbon and either rent a car there or arrange to be picked up.
For a few days of rest between hikes, Moinho da Fadagosa is a unique place to stay: a restored stone windmill for two people on a hilltop near Mação, with its own swimming spot in the river and owners who know the region like the back of their hand. You can book direct with them.
With a passion for travel and photography and over 30 years of experience in the travel industry, I love to share my special nature travel tips. Travel is wonderful and important, you meet new people and cultures and it opens your view of the world.
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