Friuli: Hiking from Forni di Sopra & Sauris

In early September, I drove into the mountains toward Forni di Sopra. It immediately felt different from the familiar Dolomites: quieter, friendlier, less touristy.

For a few days, I hiked above the tree line near Mount Varmost, explored the cultural mountain village of Sauris (Zahre)—with its own language and traditions—and cycled along the Tagliamento River to its confluence with the Fella. And let’s not forget: I sampled the delicious local cuisine.

This is Friuli as I experienced it: tranquility, nature, mountain culture, and a river that connects it all.

Friuli at a Glance

• The area is ideal for hikers seeking peace and quiet, and for those who want to combine nature with culture and excellent cuisine. You’re not far from the border with Slovenia. I was there in early September, and it was clearly the end of the season. We ran into a lone hiker, and the weather was generally great for hiking and biking.
• The region—officially known as Friuli-Venezia-Giulia (in northeastern Italy)—is a somewhat lesser-known region, but it has so much to offer.
• My base camps: Forni di Sopra (907 m) & Sauris/Zahre (1,212 m)

Forni di Sopra: Mount Varmost and the Giro delle Malghe

Forni di Sopra is located in the heart of the Dolomites, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The area boasts rich biodiversity thanks to its location in a sunny valley surrounded by forests and high mountains. Perfect for nature lovers and sustainable tourism. The landscape is varied, featuring centuries-old cultures and diverse topographies.

The residents are proud of what nature provides them. They organize events such as the “Festa delle Erbe di Primavera” in the spring and the “Festa dei Funghi” in the fall to highlight the importance of biodiversity.

In Forni di Sopra, I hiked with a guide to Mount Varmost (1,758 m)—also known as Clap Varmost. The area is becoming an increasingly attractive hiking destination due to the receding snowline. The village itself also offers countless opportunities for outdoor enthusiasts.

We took the chairlift up and hiked the Giro delle Malghe. It’s a beautiful route that’s perfectly manageable if you’re in reasonably good shape. In some places, you can see the famous Tre Cime, but to me, this area itself is just as impressive as the “better-known” Dolomites.

At a mountain hut along the route, volunteers served coffee with homemade cake, and we had lunch at a lovely spot in a valley surrounded by mountains. Lunch at Rifugio Casera Tartoi. You can also stay overnight here (open practically all year round and equipped with electric blankets).

In the afternoon, I explored Forni di Sopra by bike (yes, an e-bike) and cycled around the Tagliamento River, with a few steep climbs along the way.

Sauris (Zahre), hike to the rifugio and dark sky

From Forni di Sopra, I continued on to Sauris, at an elevation of 1,212 meters (about 35 kilometers). It’s a particularly charming mountain village with its own language. Incidentally, this is the Carnic Alps, not the Dolomites.

I did part of the Sentiero A2 hike. This uphill hike is fairly easy, as it’s mostly on paved roads. The area is also very popular with birdwatchers. At the top, another lovely spot for a (light) lunch awaited me at Rifugio Eimblateribn.

Sauris is a perfect place for stargazing. Low air pollution and minimal light pollution. The area is also popular with motorcyclists because of its beautiful, winding route. In the afternoon, it was time to explore some local crafts. In addition to Wolf’s famous ham factory, Sauris has a small museum dedicated to woodworking. I spent the night in Sauris at an “albergo diffuso,” where you stay in accommodations scattered throughout the village.

The Tagliamento as a wild common thread

Cycling along the Tagliamento

There are two well-known cycling routes, the FVG6 and the FVG1, that run along the Tagliamento River. I started in Cavazzo Carnico and rode part of the route along the Tagliamento to where it joins the Fella.

I made a brief stop at Trasaghis on Lago di Cavazzo, also known as Lago dei Tre Comuni. There’s a beautiful cycling and hiking trail around the lake.

Venzone and the FVG1

In Venzone, we stopped for a quick cup of coffee. It’s a charming and historically significant village that was completely rebuilt in its original style after the 1976 earthquake. It’s also one of the “borghi più belli d’Italia” (most beautiful villages in Italy). And, not to be overlooked: it’s also located along the Alps-Adriatic FVG1 cycling route.

You can take a guided tour of Venzone and nearby Gemona. You’ll hear fascinating stories about the historical significance and resilience of these villages.

Practical Guide to Hikes

1. Mount Varmost & Giro delle Malghe (Forni di Sopra)

• Level: intermediate (more accessible with a lift)
• Why go: alpine meadows, mountain huts, views, lunch at a malga
• Tip: Bring extra layers and keep an eye on the weather forecast; it can still be chilly and windy up there, even in early September.
• Route: the Giro delle Malghe

2. Trail A2 to Rifugio Eimblateribn (Sauris)

• Level: intermediate
• Why do it: You really “walk right into” Sauris, with a rifugio as your natural destination.
• Tip: Don’t start too late, so you’ll still have time to explore the village at a leisurely pace after the hike.
• Route: Click here for all hiking trails in Sauris.

3. Tagliamento Bike Tour (Cavazzo Carnico to the confluence with the Fella)

• Level: easy to moderate (depending on pace and terrain)
• Why do it: Here, you’ll understand why the Tagliamento is the common thread running through Friuli
• Tip: Bring your swimsuit if it’s warm and you find a safe spot near the water (watch out for currents and unstable banks).

Bonus if you stay longer:

• Truoi dai Sclops: the Gentian Trail. A more challenging route for experienced hikers.
• Val Binon: wild, rugged, and peaceful
• Lago di Sauris Loop: easier. On foot or by mountain bike (great for golden hour).

The highlights: You won’t want to miss this

• Forni di Sopra as a peaceful base for hiking with lift access to higher elevations
• Sky Safari: Stargazing in Sauris, Away from Light Pollution (a surprisingly beautiful finale)
• Sauris/Zahre: Culture, Woodworking, Museum, and Local Traditions
• The Tagliamento: Cycling Along a River That Still Has Plenty of “Space”
• Venzone & Gemona: the perfect stops to connect your mountain trip with the valley
• Read here about the (locally organized) bike tour from the Dolomites to Trieste

Here’s how to get there

• By car: it’s over 1,000 kilometers from the Netherlands
• Public transportation: If you’re short on time, taking a shuttle from Trieste to Forni di Sopra is the best option. If you’d like to use more public transportation, combine your trip with a stop in Udine (by train) and continue by bus toward the mountains (tip: check the schedule in advance, as buses run infrequently).

Travel tip (slow): Add a few extra days to your trip and take it easy (stay longer in one place). Friuli is perfect for slow travel.

Where to Stay

• Forni di Sopra: Due Cime Hotel
• Sauris: albergo diffuso (staying “in” the village)

Best time to visit

My trip was in early September, which I personally think is ideal: the weather is often stable for hiking, it’s less crowded than in the height of summer, and it gets dark early enough in the evening to stargaze. The villages do feel a bit deserted, though, so if you prefer a livelier atmosphere, June and July might be better.

Note: Please be aware of the lifts’ operating days, as they close in early September

Sustainability Tips (Small but Effective)

• Stay on the trails (especially near riverbanks and mountain meadows).
• Buy local (Malagasy lunch, village products) instead of grabbing a quick meal at the supermarket.
• Plan some downtime: moving around less means less impact and a richer experience.
• Bring a reusable bottle and a small trash bag (especially handy on long days).

Packing List for Early September

Hiking

• Broken-in hiking boots (preferably with good traction)
• Hiking Socks
• Hiking poles (great for going downhill)
• Daypack (20–30L) + rain cover
• Basic First Aid (blister bandages)
• Read more here about our tips for your walking vacation in Europe

Clothing (layers!)

• Quick-drying shirt + long-sleeve shirt
• Fleece or a thin down jacket
• Raincoat (and possibly rain pants)
• Long hiking pants

• Thin beanie/buff + lightweight gloves (for windy weather/evenings)

For Sky Safari / Evening

• Headlamp (the red light mode is especially nice)
• An extra warm layer (it gets cold quickly in the mountains)

Cycling

• Sunglasses + sunscreen
• Lightweight windbreaker (mornings/bridges along the river)

Useful

• Power Bank
• Offline maps (Komoot/AllTrails) or paper maps
• Waterproof pouches for phones/cameras

Friuli on the map