Central Portugal: Surprisingly Diverse Nature and Culture

Central Portugal has a lot to offer. In addition to the often surprisingly rugged Atlantic coast with its beautiful sandy beaches, the inland region boasts a wide variety of natural landscapes, authentic villages, and a unique mountain range: the “Magic Mountains.”

In May, I took a road trip through the natural landscapes of Central Portugal, starting in Lisbon and ending in Porto. I was surprised by this authentic and relatively quiet part of Portugal. Join me as I bike, hike, sail, and drive through Central Portugal for the best tips.

Birdwatching in the Óbidos Lagoon: Flamingos

Just over an hour’s drive from Lisbon, you’ll reach the Óbidos Lagoon. We’re driving north on the N8. In this area, thanks to a favorable north wind and a relatively humid climate, you’ll find not only excellent wines but also the most delicious apples and pears. There are plenty of fruit trees here, and the fruit is used in the most delicious dishes.

Starting from the north side (Caldas da Rainha), you can walk or bike almost all the way around the lagoon—a total of about 34 kilometers. You can also take a boat trip from here. We joined Miguel and his son from Intertidal for a ride to the other side of the lagoon. Miguel is a marine biologist and learned a great deal from his grandfather and father. He is now passing that knowledge on to his son.

There are lots of waterbirds; unfortunately, I haven’t seen any flamingos yet (mid-May), but there are plenty of purple herons. Flamingos are usually here from late May through October. Fishing is permitted on a limited basis and only with a permit, to preserve the ecosystem. The area has a high level of biodiversity in its flora and fauna.

Due to the tidal current, the water is very salty. The area used to be much larger, but it is shrinking due to the force of the incoming water, which is raising the sandy bottom. It’s a wonderful spot for birdwatching. Part of the lagoon is a nature reserve and is off-limits.

You can go stand-up paddleboarding, hiking, and kayaking here all year round. You’ll also see a lot of kitesurfers.

Óbidos, an authentic white town

Óbidos is a surprisingly beautiful walled town with a castle and a completely intact historic center. You can walk along the castle walls. You do have to be very careful, though, because there’s no railing.

Only about 30 people still live within the city walls. The town hosts, among other things, a chocolate festival (March–April), a book festival, an organic market, and much more.

Unfortunately, tourist buses now pass through here as well. It’s best to visit the city early in the morning, late in the afternoon, or in the evening. I’d also try to avoid the weekend.

The village is also home to the Literary Hotel: thousands of books from all over the world line the walls here…

I stayed overnight at Rio do Prado, a unique and sustainable hotel concept located near the Obidos lagoon. The restaurant serves farm-to-table cuisine, and the beautiful rooms are scattered throughout the grounds.

Caldas da Rainha

In nearby Caldas da Rainha, you’ll see a lot of modern street art. In addition to the murals, there are 22 modern artworks scattered throughout the village. This village, with its thermal springs, was once a well-known spa resort for the wealthy.

Costanova, a peninsula near Aveiro

Costanova is a peninsula on a sandbar. The town was founded after a bridge was built from Aveiro in the 1950s.

It is a coastal strip bordering the Aveiro Lagoon. Its colorful wooden and striped fishermen’s cottages are a distinctive feature. Beautiful sandy beaches and delicious seafood restaurants. The fish market is one of the most famous in the region.

There is a 6-km-long walking trail along the beach. Costanova is known as a surfing destination and is popular with both Portuguese and foreign tourists. Still, it’s a very pleasant place to stay.

Restaurant recommendation: Clube de Vela on the waterfront

Aveiro, a city surrounded by water

Aveiro is a fairly large city—with a population of about 80,000—and a modern university. It’s very different from Coimbra. The city is almost entirely flat, so it’s great for cycling.

You can borrow bicycles for free in front of City Hall in Aveiro (the blue bikes, called “bugas”).

The old train station has been beautifully preserved, complete with its famous azulejos (blue tiles), and the city has a few very beautiful Art Nouveau buildings. Aveiro also has a cathedral with a somewhat austere interior and a blend of styles from many different eras.

Aveiro is surrounded by the sea and a lagoon. On the water, you can see the wooden moliceiro boats, which look a bit like the gondolas in Venice. Once used to transport natural fertilizer, they now mainly carry tourists.

The fishing district in Aveiro is a charming neighborhood with narrow streets between two canals. You can see the Farol de Aveiro from a distance; it is Portugal’s tallest lighthouse.

TIP: You can also travel from Porto to Aveiro very easily (and affordably) by train. The trip from Porto to Aveiro takes less than an hour. There are several trains a day.

Aveiro Lagoon and Storks

The Grande Rota de Ria de Aveiro is a long hiking trail stretching as far as 600 kilometers. It consists of three routes: the blue, the gold, and the green routes. All three are multi-day routes that you can complete on foot or by bike, though you can, of course, just hike a section. They are the GR 57, GR 58, and GR 11.

We’re taking a bike ride through the northernmost part of the Ria de Aveiro and are surprised by the huge number of storks. They fly and nest in all sorts of places—high up in trees and in the villages.

You can also use free bicycles here, but you’ll need to make a reservation in advance with the city (at Cais da Ribeira de Pardelhas, which isn’t always open).

From the harbor at Murtosa (Porto do Abrigo do Bico), we take a beautiful boat tour on a moliceiro with a guide. We learn a lot about the plants that grow there, including several types of seaweed. We pass by an island that is now uninhabited but was once used to exile the sick and criminals.

The lagoon is no less than 47 kilometers long from north to south. It has been and continues to be used for salt production and the cultivation of seaweed for fertilizer. The Vouga River divides the lagoon in two, with one part containing saltwater and the other freshwater. Rice is also grown in the saltwater. The genet, a wild cat, also lives here.

We’re staying at Tijosa Eco-house Camp, a charming 6-room B&B in Ovar. It’s a 15-minute walk from Furadouro Beach and is also accessible by train from Lisbon and Porto.

Torreira, Moliceiro Boat Museum

In Torreira, I visit the Monte Branco Museum, which is dedicated to the unique moliceiro boats. Here, they are built in the traditional way for private owners. The boats are repainted every few years, each with its own unique identity. The museum also features a number of scale models and provides information on their history.

The historic moliceiros, made of pine wood, are a long-standing tradition. People here live on and around the water. In the past, all transportation was done by water.

The Salreu–Bioria Estarreja Hiking and Birdwatching Trail

Bioria, a Natura 2000 site, is part of Estarreja’s natural heritage. The area is the result of its favorable geographical location. Here, the tides come in and out four times a day, creating a mix of salt and fresh water. The area is known for its natural biodiversity and is therefore protected.

Bioria is a unique project that aims to preserve the natural ecosystem while maintaining the diversity of its flora and fauna.

We’re cycling the “Route Salreu,” a circular route that you can explore on foot or by bike, covering a total of about 8 kilometers. The route starts at the Bioria visitor center. The trail takes you through a wide variety of nature reserves, such as rice paddies, marshes, reed beds, and rush fields. You can also download the “Sentir Estarreja” app for more information and routes.

There are 8 trails in this area, ranging up to 12 kilometers.

Birdwatching

The area is also known for its many different bird species and is therefore popular with birdwatchers.

Fabrica da Historia Arroz Rice Museum

In Estarella, near Salreu, a rice museum has been created in the old rice mill. It’s a nice museum, opened in 2019, that highlights the importance of local rice production in the past.

Even today, rice production in Estarreja continues on a traditional scale (and with high quality).

We continue on to Furadouro, a small seaside town just north of the Rio d’Aveiro. A delicious dinner by the sea at Dunas restaurant as the sun sets.

The Unique Church in Válega

From here on, we’ll head inland toward Vouzela. Along the way, we’ll pass through Válega, a small village with a unique attraction: the church of Válega. It’s especially remarkable from the outside, as the facade is entirely covered with religious tiles. Inside, you’ll also see beautiful tiles.

We arrived at sunset, so the west-facing entrance was beautifully lit. The church dates back to the 12th century and was renovated in the last century.

Vouzela and the Vouga-Caramulo Nature Park

Vouzela is a charming little town surrounded by greenery, located about 25 kilometers from Viseu. The Vouga River flows through Vouzela. Vouzela is also located along the route of the Portuguese Central Camino (Lisbon–Coimbra–Porto).

We’re biking with our guide David along a section of the Vouga Green Way. It’s a beautiful paved route through the countryside, partly along old train tracks. We pass through the town of São Pedro do Sul, which has geothermal springs. This is the Ecopista do Vale do Vouga.

In this area , you’ll find the Vouga-Caramulo Nature Reserve, an 11,000-hectare protected and diverse nature reserve with a rich cultural history.

We’re staying at Casa da Ameias, an old castle with 8 charming rooms and a swimming pool. On the ground floor of the castle is a small “Pastel do Vouzela” museum and a chapel. The “pastel do vouzela” is a delicious local variation on the pastel de nata, with a paper-thin layer of puff pastry.

Vouzela Restaurant Tip: Restaurant Margarida, run by the passionate owner Fernando and his wife Margarida.

Green Ways Portugal

The Green Ways in Portugal—also known as Ecopistas —are bike paths built along old train tracks, through green areas, and past lesser-known regions to promote slow travel. The paths are in good condition, mostly paved, with some gravel sections.

Across Portugal, a network of Ecopistas is taking shape, similar to the Vias Verdes in Spain. In the north, many of the bike paths have already been completed, while in other areas they are partially finished. Unfortunately, they are not yet connected to one another.

Road Trip Through the Magic Mountains

From Vouzela, we set off with our guide David toward the Magic Mountains. These are the mountains:

• Sao Macário
• Serra da Freita
• Arada
• Arestal
• Montemuro

They are located between the Douro and Vouga rivers.

When asked why they’re called the Magic Mountains, David doesn’t have an answer. But a little while later, we do see a truly remarkable and varied mountain landscape.

We drive to the summit of Mount São Macário in São Martinho das Moitas (1,052 meters). In addition to the famous “Instagram swing,” there’s also an old church here, sheltered from the wind by a wall. A little further on, there’s another smaller church at the edge of a cave. From here, there’s a stunning view of the surrounding mountains, including the Serra da Estrela.

According to legend, this is where São Macário went into seclusion after accidentally killing his father while hunting. Every year at the end of July, thousands of people gather here to commemorate this event.

What makes the Magic Mountains especially unique is the purple of the heather and the yellow of the mimosa that color the mountains (May–June). The mountainous region has only a few villages. It used to be a mining area. The villages are still largely self-sufficient.

The mountains offer a varied landscape, though unfortunately they have also been affected by severe wildfires in some areas. The roads are generally very easy to drive on. A beautiful and peaceful route through a unique mountainous region.

In the mountains, there are 7 Natura 2000 parks and a UNESCO Geopark with fossils dating back millions of years. On Mount Freita, you’ll find rocks with small boulders. This area is also home to the Iberian wolf, foxes, deer, wild boars, and birds of prey. The Vouga River also flows through this area and has the cleanest water in Portugal.

GR Magic Mountains

A Grande Route, the GR60, runs through the area. You can hike or bike the route (an e-bike is recommended due to the elevation). It is a route of about 275 kilometers with an elevation gain ranging from 53 to 1,200 meters.

The area is wonderful for nature lovers, hikers, and experienced cyclists. Every mountain is different. The weather here can be unpredictable, so keep that in mind. We’ll hike a trail along the Llevadas and have lunch at a beautiful spot near the Lago da Garça guesthouse in Coelheira. The delicious traditional lunch is provided by Restaurante O Monte in Bodiosa.

Vila Jardim in Santar: beautiful gardens with an aristocratic atmosphere

We continue on to Santar, just south of Viseu. Santar is situated between Mount Caramulo to the north and the Serra da Estrela to the south. The village and the region (the Dão) are known for their fine wines, thanks to the favorable climate. It has a noble history dating back to the Middle Ages but fell into decline in the last century due to wars and a lack of work.

The Vila Jardim project began in 2013: to combine five different noble gardens in the village into a single garden. The most impressive garden is located behind the Casa dos Condes de Santar e Magalhães. Impressive, structured rose beds surrounded by boxwoods, lemon trees, and rhododendrons gradually give way to circular vineyards. At the far end of the garden, wooden “windows” offer a view of the garden and the villa.

The house is still partially occupied, and you can take a guided tour of it, which includes an impressive scale model of the gardens designed by landscape architect Fernando Caruncho.

You can also visit just the gardens. Villa Jardim is open daily, and you can make a reservation online.

We continue on toward Porto, where our tour of central Portugal comes to an end. It’s a surprisingly diverse region with many undiscovered spots.

Practical Tips for a Road Trip Through Central Portugal

• We took the tour from Lisbon to Porto. Of course, you can also do it the other way around or start from either of the two cities.
• By car, it’s about 2,000 kilometers to Viseu in central Portugal.
• You can fly to Lisbon or Porto and rent a car.
• You can take this trip in an electric car. Because of the elevation changes, you’ll need to carefully calculate how far you can drive before reaching a charging station.
• Activities at the Óbidos Lagoon: Intertidal.
• You can find information and activities in Óbidos here.
• Here you’ll find hiking trails around Óbidos and the Óbidos Lagoon.
• If you’d like to extend your trip in Central Portugal a bit further inland, check out the Aldeias Históricas.
• You can find detailed information about Central Portugal at the Visit Center of Portugal.

Road Trip Through Central Portugal on the Map