Hiking in Madeira: From East to West Across the Peaks

Hiking in Madeira: 6 Beautiful Mountain Trails

When winter casts its gray veil over Europe, you can head to a place where the sun shines and nature blooms all year round: Madeira. Thanks to its rugged volcanic mountain landscape, fertile green valleys, and pleasant, humid climate, it’s often called the “Hawaii of Europe.” I took this wonderful trek from eastern to western Madeira in six stunning hikes.

I booked this trip with a reputable Dutch hiking tour specialist. You can book the same 8-day trip (7 nights) with this specialist. Go to “Request a quote.”

This adventurous, non-stop trek takes in almost everything this fascinating island has to offer. Over the course of six hikes and a few taxi rides, you can hike across the island from east to west.

The hikes described are suitable for experienced hikers. I completed the route while staying at three different hotels and using a luggage transport service from hotel to hotel. I’ve also included some practical tips for your trip.

Hiking in Madeira: 6 Trips from East to West

Rugged cliffs to the east and the spectacular PR1

The trek begins on the eastern side of the island, where the high cliffs of Boca do Risco, with their breathtaking views, immediately set the tone for this challenging 6-day trek. The challenge is particularly noticeable around Boca das Torrinhas, where you’ll pick up the spectacular PR1 trail.

This trail winds across the central ridge of Madeira, flanked by sheer cliffs and deep gorges of Pico do Arieiro (1,818 m) and Pico Ruivo (1,862 m). At the Boca das Torrinhas mountain pass, you’ll be rewarded with a panoramic view of the Atlantic Ocean on both sides of the trail.

Hiking in the Sunny Southwest of Madeira

As you continue, you’ll reach the sunnier southwestern side of the island, where you’ll be treated to a spectacular panoramic view from Pico da Urze. The hike eventually takes you to Calheta, where the sunset over the Atlantic Ocean provides the perfect ending to this magnificent hike.

At 1,862 meters, Pico Ruivo is the highest point on Madeira. From the summit—which can only be reached on foot—you’ll enjoy an impressive 360-degree view, provided it isn’t shrouded in mist.

Levades in Madeira

This unique volcanic mountain landscape is responsible for the various microclimates on Madeira, which can cause the weather on the north and south sides of the island to differ surprisingly. This has led to the creation of the man-made Levadas. These ingenious irrigation channels have been channeling the abundant water from the wet north to the drier southern part of the island for three centuries. These networks of levadas, which together span some 3,000 km, form a crucial part of the island’s heritage and landscape and are now rewarding and beautiful hiking trails.

Levada hike from Maroços to Porto da Cruz

A short taxi ride will take you from your hotel in Santo da Serra to the village of Maroços. Here, you’ll join the first levada trail, following the contours of Madeira’s rugged northeast coast. After Boca do Risco, which offers a great viewpoint, you’ll walk along a path halfway up the nearly 400-meter-high, sheer cliff face. Everywhere you look, there’s beautiful green vegetation; you’ll spot salamanders and butterflies and enjoy endless views of the sea. In the distance behind you, you can just make out the Ponta de São Lourenço peninsula. That’s where the beautiful PR8 hiking trail is located—something to save for another time!

After Espigao Amarelo, you’ll leave the deep cliffs behind you, and a winding footpath will take you to the harbor village of Porta da Cruz. It’s a real surf spot. There’s a newly built promenade and several surf hostels. There’s also a natural swimming pool right next to the ocean.

What if the weather isn’t great on the day you want to go on this hike? Don’t worry—there’s a shorter route starting from Ribeira de Machico.

You can take a taxi back to Santo da Serra. There’s a weekly Sunday market there. This is where the locals do their weekly shopping and wrap up the afternoon at one of the market bars. You’ll also find a few food stalls here and the occasional stray tourist.

Hiking from Maroços to Porto da Cruz

  • Duration: 5.5 hours
  • Distance: 16.2 km
  • Climbing 610 m
  • Descent 775 m
  • Difficulty *****

Hiking in Madeira from Santo da Serra to Ribeiro Frio

This beautiful levada hike takes you deep into the interior. The trail climbs very gradually to an elevation of over 900 meters. You’ll walk to the center of Santo de Serra, where you’ll find a few cafes and a small mini-market. From there, you’ll climb to the Levada da Serra, which merges into the Levada Furado. On this hike, you’ll spend the entire day walking through beautiful, shady forests. The trail is excitingly narrow in places, with lush and sometimes tropical vegetation everywhere, and once again, spectacular views. You’ll follow the levada all the way to its wooded endpoint in Ribeiro Frio.

For those who are up for it, there’s one last little climb to a viewpoint: Panorama Balcoes. You can also enjoy a drink on the terrace of the Ribeiro Frio restaurant… The taxi ride back to the hotel offers incredible views of the city Funchal. Every moment of the ride feels like a scene from a movie, with panoramic views stretching across the lively city and the calm ocean.

Hike from Santo da Serra to Ribeiro Frio

  • Duration: 5.5 hours
  • Distance: 16.5 km
  • Climbing 260 m
  • Descent: 65 m
  • Difficulty *****

Hiking Through Traditional Madeira: To Curral das Freiras

A journey into traditional Madeira. From the hotel, you’ll descend deep into Curral das Freiras along a beautiful old footpath with thousands of steps. Once a very remote and isolated village in the heart of the Nuns’ Valley (in the distant past, nuns took refuge here from sea pirates). Past the village center—which is otherwise unremarkable—you continue on to the part of the village where the houses are perched on steep slopes, each with its own vegetable garden and small irrigation channel. These are remnants of the tea plantations that once existed here two centuries ago to supply the English market.

Don’t feel like climbing all those stairs back down into the valley? There’s also a bus! It’ll take you back up in ten minutes. Not a bad option if you want to give your feet a break in preparation for the spectacular P1 hike.

Hike to Curral das Freiras

  • Duration: 4 hours
  • Distance: 8.3 km
  • Climbing 745 m
  • Descent 745 m
  • Difficulty *****

PR1Hike Madeira: from Faja dos Cardos to Boca da Encumeada

Deep in the heart of Madeira, in the small village of Faja dos Cardos, you’ll begin the fourth hike along a historic trade route. In just over 2.5 hours, this route takes you through a fairytale-like eucalyptus forest to a major pass in the central mountain range: the Boca das Torrinhas Pass. Here, you’ll join the spectacular PR1 hiking trail, the breathtakingly beautiful path across Madeira’s central mountain range. The trail is dotted with countless steps and features both steep descents and climbs, with steel cables here and there to help you keep your footing.

This hike requires good physical fitness and sure-footedness; but what a magnificent hike—unforgettable! The hike ends at a little bar in Encumeada and left a lasting impression, earning it a spot in our top three all-time best hikes!

PR1 from Faja dos Cardos to Boca da Encumeada

  • Duration: 6 hours
  • Distance: 9.2 km
  • Climbing 1120 m
  • Descent 825 m
  • Difficulty *****

Hiking in Madeira: From Pico da Urze to Estreito da Calheta

On the edge of the Serra Grande, you’ll begin a gradual descent toward the southwest of the island. First, you’ll follow a levada with yet more stunning views; then you’ll pass through the beautiful old laurel forests and descend along forest trails to the level where the highest settlements are located. Eventually, you’ll arrive in Estreito da Calheta, a charming parish on the southwest coast, known for its pleasant climate, rich agricultural traditions, and wine production. The famous Madeira wine comes from this region. The people in this small community are very hospitable. Here, you’re far away from the busier tourist centers.

Hike from Pico da Urze to Estreito da Calheta

  • Duration: 5.5 hours
  • Distance: 17.5 km
  • Climbing 110 m
  • Elevation: 1,125 m
  • Difficulty *****

The last hotel is Quinta das Vinhas. This charming retreat is surrounded by vast vineyards, where you can enjoy the peace and quiet, the beautiful garden with many different kinds of trees and flowers, and even a herb garden. At dawn, you’ll hear an incredible variety of birds here. This hotel, housed in a beautiful old country estate, offers all the comfort you’ll need after six hikes. It’s a perfect retreat for anyone seeking peace and relaxation in the midst of nature.

Hotel Quinta das Vinhas places a strong emphasis on sustainability and respect for the environment, which is reflected in its operations and its harmony with the surrounding nature. You can choose from rooms in the main building or—for more privacy—in one of the picturesque cottages scattered throughout the estate. From every location within the hotel, there are breathtaking views of the Atlantic Ocean and the green hills of Madeira.

The restaurant at Quinta das Vinhas, Bago, is well worth a visit. Here, the flavors of Madeira really come to life. They cook with fresh, local ingredients, and there’s a wide selection of vegetarian dishes. You can also explore Madeira’s wine culture through the carefully curated wine list, which features a focus on local wines. The staff is friendly and incredibly welcoming!

Hike from Estreito da Calheta to Calheta

From Quinta das Vinhas, located in the middle of a centuries-old vineyard in Estreito da Calheta, you can take one last walk to Calheta. You’ll climb through the narrow streets of Estreito up to Levada Nova. Then begins the long descent, along an old fishermen’s path, to the harbor of Calheta. Here you’ll find an artificial sandy beach where you can swim. There’s also a sugarcane mill with a small, charming museum about sugarcane: Sociedade dos Engenhos da Calheta. Be sure to sample the rum—and especially the sugarcane syrup cookies!

For art lovers: be sure to set aside plenty of time for your visit to the architecturally acclaimed Museu de Arte Contemporânea (Mudas), a leading museum of contemporary art. This museum houses an impressive collection of modern Portuguese artworks and exceeds all expectations.

Hike from Estreito da Calheta to Calheta

  • Duration: 5.5 hours
  • Distance: 16.5 km
  • Climbing 645 m
  • Descent 675 m
  • Difficulty *****

Practical Tips for Hiking in Madeira

  • You can book this trip through a reputable Dutch hiking tour specialist.
  • Six hikes in as many days require a good level of fitness, and if you’re afraid of heights, you should choose different hikes. Madeira has more than 200 hiking trails, so there are plenty to choose from.
  • You don’t need a rental car for this trip. Public transportation buses are also easy to use, although in more remote areas they run irregularly and not very often.
  • The taxi transfers and luggage transport have been arranged.
  • During the off-season, Transavia is the only airline that flies directly from Amsterdam to Funchal twice a week. During the high season, these direct flights operate daily.

Prices Are Rising in Madeira from East to West

Prices per person based on double occupancy

  • Jan. 21–Feb. 7 €884
  • Feb. 8–Mar. 6 €900
  • March 7–31 and October 1–31: €934
  • April 1–30 and June 1–30: €982
  • May 1–May 31 and July 1–September 30: €1,030

Included

  • bed and breakfast (7x)
  • dinner (1x upon arrival in S. Antonio, 1x upon arrival in Estreito da Calheta)
  • transfers to and from the airport
  • all baggage transfers
  • 4 transfers to the starting point of the hike or from the end of the hike on days 2, 3, and 5
  • information package with route descriptions in Dutch and GPS tracks

Not included

  • round-trip to Madeira
  • lunches and other dinners
  • 1 transfer to the starting point of the hike (approximately €6 per person)
  • Single-occupancy surcharge when booking single rooms
  • Optional sauna fee at the hotel in Boaventura: €10 per hour (advance reservation required)
  • Tourist tax (€10 per person for the 8-day trip), payable on site
  • SGR fee: €5 per person
  • Emergency Fund contribution: €2.50 per booking

Request a quote: Hiking Madeira from East to West

When you request a quote, we’ll forward it to our (Dutch) partner, and they’ll confirm it directly with you if they agree. You’ll pay the same price as if you were booking directly. You’ll handle the rest of the booking and payment directly with the travel agency (with whom we have a good working relationship and established agreements). We’re always available to answer any questions you may have.

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About the author

Mieke Tacken

I am an interior designer, photographer, and an avid nature hiker. I’ve lost my heart to the simplicity and beauty of hiking vacations. I also appreciate the unique experience of a stay that tells a story about local history or culture. Here, I share my stories and tips—whenever possible, with a light footprint and always with a heart full of wonder.

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