Enna: Slow Tourism in the Heart of Sicily

Enna? I’d never heard of it either. I know Sicily pretty well, but this city and its surroundings—the very center of Sicily, no less—were unknown to me. It’s also sometimes called the navel of Sicily. I spent a few days exploring with local guides and was captivated by the natural beauty, the passion of the people, and the mythical history of “Kore,” which is still palpable today.

If you enjoy slow travel, you won’t want to miss this lesser-known spot in Sicily. The temperature is pleasant thanks to its high elevation (about 900 meters above sea level). Plus, it’s easy to combine a visit here with a few days on the coast.

I didn’t run into any tourists (in October), learned about the legend of Kore, and took part in a few “slow” workshops with local artisans—it was very Zen.

Enna, a city with traces dating back centuries

Enna dates back to well before the year 1,000 B.C. It has always been a strategic location due to its central and elevated position at 900 meters above sea level. Two thousand years ago, Enna was the military center of Sicily thanks to its central location, the Gela River, and its fertile soil.

In a nutshell: this region was already inhabited by the “Sicans” in prehistoric times. After Greek and Roman rule, Enna became a Byzantine military stronghold. A flourishing Arab period followed, and then came the Kingdom of Sicily and the unification of Italy. In 1927, Enna was designated the provincial capital by Mussolini. During that period (until the 1980s), agriculture and sulfur mining were major industries.

This beautiful town is situated on a hill and has a somewhat Arabic feel to it. In a few squares, you can see influences from the fascist architectural period of the early 20th century. There are no fewer than 91(!) churches here, and about 20,000 people live here. People don’t need to lock their doors here. Everyone knows each other, and it has a very small-town feel.

Due to its high elevation, the temperature is pleasant, and it can cool down quite a bit at night. Enna Bassa (the lower part of the city) is home to one of Sicily’s major universities: Kore, the Free University of Enna.

Castello di Lombardia in Enna

Enna Castle was closed during my visit due to restoration work. It is normally open to visitors. It towers over the city from its vantage point at the top. In good weather, Mount Etna is clearly visible from here (the distance is about 100 kilometers).

Rocca di Cerere Geopark: UNESCO World Heritage Site

The Rocca di Cerere Geopark stretches across the Erei Mountains and, in addition to Enna, includes the municipalities of Aidone, Assoro, Calascibetta, Nissoria, Leonforte, Piazza Armerina, Valguarnera, and Villarosa.

The area, rich in history and culture, owes its name to the “Rock of Ceres,” a sacred site dedicated to Ceres, the Roman goddess of agriculture (equivalent to the Greek goddess Demeter).

The Rocca di Cerere Geopark is not only a natural and geological heritage site, but also symbolizes the sustainable relationship between humans and their environment. In places, the landscape resembles the Val d’Orcia and the Crete Senesi in Tuscany. The roads are occasionally in poor condition but are generally easy to navigate in a standard car. There are many almond trees, olive groves, and forests interspersed with rolling hills.

Local Passion for Crafts in the Kore Siciliae

The Rocca di Cerere Geopark is dedicated to promoting sustainable development. The local community is actively involved in improving and preserving natural and cultural heritage. The goal is to preserve the region’s history and values and pass them on to future generations.

That’s how the organization Kore Siciliae came to be in Enna: about 55 local artisans and entrepreneurs who are passionate about their work have joined forces. They’d love to introduce you to their extraordinary work. I had the opportunity to observe a number of these artisans at work. It was a special experience and, in my view, a unique form of slow tourism.

Hiking and Biking in the Floristella-Grottacalda Mining Park

Floristella-Grottacalda is a unique place: here you’ll find yourself in an abandoned mining complex in the middle of a Nature reserve. Sulfur mines were still active here until after World War II. The mines were not permanently closed until 1987.

At the head of the Floristella Valley stands the Palazzo Pennisi, the stately residence of the Pennisi family, the owners. The opulence and grandeur of the building stand in stark contrast to the austerity of the surroundings. Adults and young boys (“carusi”) worked here in the mines under appalling conditions.

A few years ago, a massive wildfire raged through the park. The effects are still visible, but recovery is underway. The nature park is ideal for hiking and mountain biking. You can do this with guide Michele Barbano, but of course you can also hike or bike here on your own.

Michele and his wife run an agriturismo where you can also go on eco-friendly excursions. It’s a fun place for kids, too. For example, you can go on a hike with donkeys and watch the beekeeping process.

You can hike through the park to Palazzo Pennisi along a trail. At the villa, you can take a guided tour (by appointment). It’s very interesting—not only because of the tragic history of the mines, but also because of the explanations about the plants and animals. You can mountain bike (or hike) through the entire park on a loop of about 10 km. You can also bike from Lago di Pergusa to the mines. You can rent e-bikes here.

The Mystical Mount Cozzo Matrice: The Heart of Sicily

According to legend, Cozzo Matrice is the place where Pluto first abducted the virgin Persephone (Kore) from the upper world and took her to the underworld against her will.

The mountain is located just outside Enna. We’ll take a 4-wheel-drive vehicle with our guide up to about halfway up the mountain. From there, we’ll continue walking slowly uphill: a 360-degree view of Enna, Lake Pergusa, the beautiful valley with rolling hills, and, in the distance, the steaming Mount Etna.

Cozzo Matrice is a truly beautiful place, surrounded by nature and right in the heart of Sicily. From the top of the mountain, I can see Lake Pergusa and the ruins of an ancient settlement. Everything here speaks of a distant past. It is also a mysterious place with a history stretching back centuries.

We sit down for a moment, and the guide explains: we can see Neolithic settlements (dating from the 14th century B.C.), a ritual chamber carved out of stone, and the ruins of a Copper Age workshop. Burial chambers and holes in the rocks for inserting posts for huts. Rocky caves (probably prehistoric settlements) and, as the highlight, the ruins of the temple dedicated to the goddess Kore. The earliest Hellenistic remains in Italy were also found at Cozzo Matrice.

On the mountain, I feel the immense energy of nature and of its rich past. I’m amazed by such a special place, which is nonetheless completely deserted. Later, I learn that several grant applications submitted to the government to honor and preserve this beautiful place have so far been unsuccessful. The archaeological finds are housed in the Regional Archaeological Museum of Enna and in the Alessi Museum of Enna.

You can reach Mount Cozzo Matrice on foot. With a guide, you can drive part of the way up.

Cycling on a Formula 1 track around Lago di Pergusa

Lake Pergusa is located at an elevation of 670 meters in the Erei Mountains. The lake is believed to have formed 20,000 years ago as a result of a landslide.

Unfortunately, the lake is now almost dry due to the severe water shortage caused by climate change. It is an important habitat for flora and fauna. However, due to the lack of water, it is losing its status as a resting place for migratory birds. The protected area is part of the Natura 2000 network and, as a geosite of the “Rocca di Cerere Geopark,” is part of the European Geoparks Network (EGN).

Strangely enough, there’s an (abandoned) Formula 1 track from the 1960s surrounding the lake. We take a lap around the racetrack on our bikes. It’s a bizarre experience on a Sunday afternoon, with just a few other people here spending their day off cycling or jogging. Cheering, I cross the finish line in front of an empty grandstand.

Piazza Armerina

Piazza Armerina is a small town near Enna. In this town, you’ll find the remains of a massive Roman villa—the Villa Romana del Casale—in an open-air museum. This is one of the best-preserved villas from Roman times, featuring stunning floor mosaics. This is the only place where I’ve encountered tourists. Piazza Armerina also has a beautiful historic center with about 100 churches and a stunning cathedral.

In August, the “Palio dei Normanni” takes place over three days in Piazza Armeria.

Calascibetta and the Antica Traversale Sicula

From many places in Enna, you can see a unique hilltop town: Calascibetta. The town was built by the Arabs during their siege of Enna. It offers stunning views and winding medieval streets. Calascibetta is home to a prehistoric necropolis, the Necropoli di Realmese, and the Byzantine village of Vallone Canalotto.

Calascibetta lies along the route of the Antica Trasversale Sicula, the ancient Sicilian Transversal. It is a 650-kilometer trail that crosses Sicily from the western province of Trapani to Ragusa in the east.

Making Ricotta with the D’Angelo Brothers

From Floristella-Grottiscalda Park, we drive to a dilapidated farmhouse in Valguarnera Caropepe. You can also do this by bike, by the way. We’re really in the middle of nowhere here, and the landscape resembles the Crete Senesi in Tuscany (the yellow chalk hills).

Inside, Ambrogio has apparently been stirring a pot for hours. No rush. Just stirring. For him and his brother Nino, this is part of their daily routine—not for tourists—but they’re making fresh ricotta to sell to local shops. I’m fascinated by the slow process, and finally, I get to taste the ricotta.

The brothers who run the agricultural and livestock farm F.lli D’Angelo (part of Kore Siciliae) practice a circular economy: on their 70 hectares of land, they grow feed for their sheep, which they milk—both by hand and by machine—and then process the raw milk in the historic dairy, a legacy from their father Giuseppe. At this business, which combines tradition and innovation, Nino and Ambrogio produce 20 kilograms of ricotta and 20 kilograms of cheese every day using a centuries-old process.

You can watch or help out here. The d’Angelo brothers don’t have a website. Their email address is f.lldangelo@arubapec.it

Saffron Production

The D’Angelo brothers’ “Piacentinu Ennese” deserves a special mention: it’s a cheese made with saffron from their own farm. Nino and Ambrogio are members of the “Cooperativa Oro Rosso di Sicilia.” They supply saffron to all companies that produce Piacentinu Ennese DOP.

Out of respect for animals, the environment, and the natural biological cycle, Nino and Ambrogio have chosen to limit their dairy production while maintaining the high quality of their products. They are not (yet) available online, but thanks to word-of-mouth, they have recently begun to reach international markets as well.

You can also take part in the saffron harvest here in October or November (depending on the season).

Restoration by Maestro Angelo Scalzo

Right in the heart of Enna, you’ll find Angelo Scalzo’s workshop. In his small, cluttered shop, classical music plays in the background as Angelo works on restoring a 17th-century crucifix (originally from the Chiesa San Giuseppe in Enna). This crucifix will be used during Enna’s Holy Week procession before Easter. Angelo speaks passionately about his work and his life as he carves the wood of the crucifix.

I get to assist him with applying gold leaf. It’s the most soothing little task I’ve done in a long time. When I ask him when the cross will be finished, he looks at me questioningly. When it’s finished…

After completing numerous professional training programs, Angelo has been running his Bottega in Enna for over 35 years. He is passionate about his work, which he does with his hands, mind, and heart. He uses only natural ingredients for his restorations—no synthetic materials. Angelo would love to introduce you to his craft, and you can try it out for yourself in a workshop at his authentic little shop. No website. The address is Via Kamuth, 3 in Enna. His email address is scalzoangelo@yahoo.it

Jewelry Making at Giuliana di Franco

One of the local entrepreneurs in Kore Siciliae is Giuliana di Franco. She is well known in Italy as a jewelry maker. She creates the most beautiful masterpieces—such as rings, earrings, and necklaces—each bearing her distinctive signature. You can take a workshop at her studio, where you’ll design your own piece of jewelry with Giuliana. Giuliana will finish the piece, and after three days, you can take it home with you.

The best arancini at Umbriaco

Rosario Umbriaco was born and raised in Enna. He owns his own“Tavola calda e Bottega”in the city, which his father founded back in 1974. His delicious recipes all feature local ingredients, including local cheese and saffron. Umbriaco is now famous throughout Italy for his delicious arancini and his show cooking.

Baking Pizza at Panificio Europa

On my last night in Enna, I get to help Paolo bake pizza in his tiny bakery in the center of Enna. Paolo knew as early as age 13 that he wanted to be a baker, and he still does his work with great passion. He bakes the most delicious rolls and pastries and patiently explains how to make pizza dough. It was fun to do, but my pizza wasn’t a big success. His rolls are delicious.

I found the guides’ explanations to be of tremendous value; without them, the magical experience certainly wouldn’t have been the same.

TIP: Carmen and Michele are experienced and certified cycling and hiking guides in Enna and the surrounding area.

Accommodations and Excursions in Enna

Enna has a number of nice and very affordable B&Bs. I stayed at La Casa di Pinocchio and at Bianko EcoChic. The latter is located next to the studio of restorer Angelo Scalzo.

How to Get to Enna

From Catania, it’s an hour’s drive by car or bus (there are no trains).

When to Visit Enna

The advantage of Enna is that, thanks to its high elevation, it never gets oppressively hot. However, you are right in the middle of the country here, so there’s no cooling breeze from the sea. It cools down quite a bit at night. The best time to visit is in the spring or fall. Read more about it here the most beautiful natural scenery in Sicily.

Enna on the map

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