Exploring the Valle Maggia by Bike: Along the River, Along the Old Railroad Track

We set off from Locarno station, and within a few minutes the traffic fades away. The bike path curves down into the valley, partly following the route of a railroad line that once ran here. Beside us is the Maggia River, jade green among the boulders. Ahead of us: a day of cycling where the only decision is how long we’ll linger at the next bridge. What strikes me most is the tranquility. The only sound you hear now and then is that of the church bells in the villages we pass through.

We explored the Maggia Valley in Ticino with a guide. Not because the valley is hard to find, but because it’s just more fun with someone who knows every side road and every story. And because then all you have to do is pedal.

Down into the valley with a guide

Our tour with Stefano started at the train station in Locarno (you can also start from Bellinzona). The advantage of having a guide like Stefano is that he chooses the quietest routes, tells us about the region and its history along the way, and arranges the bikes. All I have to do is enjoy myself and get off my bike every now and then to take pictures. Of course, you can also do this ride on your own, either on your own bike or by renting one at the train station in Locarno or Bellinzona.

Along the old railroad tracks, past Grotto America

From Locarno, follow the signs for the Percorso Valle Maggia, a bike route that’s suitable for everyone. Passing through Losone, Tegna, and Ponte Brolla, you’ll ride into the valley, much of which is separated from car traffic. Along the way, you’ll pass several “grotti” (taverns) and cozy coffee spots. Grotto Mai Morire (Never Die) and Grotto America are just a few of the many rustic eateries tucked away in the hills of the Vallemaggia. The latter owes its name to the many emigrants who set out from here via Genoa for America and made their fortune there.

The river continues to accompany us, at times wide and calm, at other times deeply carved between the rocks. That clear water, by the way, is more than just beautiful. Since 1949, the Maggia and its tributaries have fed one of Switzerland’s most important hydroelectric systems: high in the mountains, the water is collected in reservoirs such as Sambuco, Narèt, and Robiei, before flowing down to Lake Maggiore via largely underground power plants.

Along the way, it is converted into clean, renewable electricity—about 1,265 gigawatt-hours annually, enough to power approximately 250,000 households. So you’re literally cycling past the region’s energy source.

Stone villages along the way: Avegno, Moghegno, and Gordevio

We got off the train in two villages full of old buildings. Avegno has a historic center with cobblestone alleys, rustic houses adorned with frescoes, and grotti on the outskirts of the village. In Moghegno, you ride along centuries-old cobblestone paths past vineyards, with views of the valley. And here stands an old hut that was once used to dry hazelnuts (also known as a “Grà”). In Maggia, we pass the Chiesa San Maurizio, a colorful church with 99 monumental steps.

And then there’s the old bridge at Gordevio: a spot where you can park your bike for a moment, lean over the railing, and look down at the water below. A beautiful little old church on the left, an abandoned stone washhouse on the right. In the middle, the old bridge spans the water. No rush. That’s the whole point of the day.

Lunch at the Cristallina Eco-Hotel

Our turning point was in Coglio, about twenty kilometers from Locarno, at the Cristallina eco-hotel. This family-run business, owned by Tamara, Marco, and their team, makes no secret of their philosophy: sustainability is woven into everything, from the renovated building to the natural, seasonal cuisine. We had a vegetarian lunch there—exactly what you need halfway through a day of cycling. We then rode back along the same route, but you can also continue further through the Maggia Valley.

Why go by bike (and with a guide)?

The Valle Maggia shows its most beautiful side when explored by bike: you’ll be going slow enough to truly take in the stone villages, the vineyards, and the river, yet fast enough to cover a good stretch of the valley. With an e-bike, the gentle climbs are no problem, and since you’ll be traveling with a local guide and staying at a family-run hotel, your money stays in the valley.

It also fits perfectly with how we traveled to Ticino: by train from the Netherlands and using only public transportation once we arrived. You can read about how we liked that in our story about Ticino Without a Car. And if you want to experience the valley even more deeply (literally), read our piece on Intragna, where you can pick your own lunch straight from the field.

Read more here about our individual cycling tour along the Lake Route in Switzerland with a local expert.

Practical Information

Frequently Asked Questions About Cycling in the Valle Maggia

Is the bike route through the Valle Maggia difficult?

No. The Percorso Valle Maggia is mostly flat and suitable for everyone; with an e-bike, even the gentle climbs are effortless. The route runs partly along a car-free bike path and partly along unpaved trails.

Do you need a guide?

Not necessarily—the route is well-marked. But with a guide like Stefano from BikePort, you’ll get the most scenic routes, information about the region, and rental bikes arranged, so all you have to do is pedal. BikePort offers MTBs, e-bikes, and gravel bikes from Ascona and Bellinzona.

Can you have a sustainable or vegetarian lunch while you’re out and about?

Yes. In Coglio, about halfway along the route, you’ll find the Cristallina eco-hotel, a family-run business that serves natural, seasonal cuisine. We had a vegetarian lunch there. Along the way, you’ll also come across various grotti, the typical rustic dining spots of Ticino.

Can you get to the valley without a car?

Yes. You’ll take the train to Locarno and use public transportation once you’re there (with the free Ticino Ticket). BikePort rents out bikes, so you don’t need to bring your own.

Valle Maggia on the map